This was originally published on April 9, 2018, at Bourbon & Banter.
Do you ever feel worn out?
Run down? Past your prime? Have you ever longed for your younger days? Does
getting older suck, or is it a great experience?
Taking a quick trip back in
time, specifically in January 2016, the big news in Bourbon was that Heaven
Hill dropped the age statement on Elijah Craig Small Batch. The
announcement stated they changed it from a 12-year to a No Age Statement (NAS)
blend of barrels aged from eight to a dozen years.
The reaction on social media
and in whiskey groups was immediate and, to say the least, vitriolic. To be
fair, some of it was anger over the feeling of being misled. Folks have been
told since 2014 that the age statement would not be dropped, and then the rumor
turned into reality. The mudslinging was lobbed at everyone, but Bernie
Lubbers was the biggest target by far.
Many Bourbon fans, some
knowing what they were talking about, and others who wanted to appear as much,
swore they’d never touch Elijah Craig again. They wouldn’t have anything to do
with a whiskey that would drop its age statement. They immediately badmouthed
the new Elijah Craig Small Batch of mixed-age barrels, complaining about the
flavor, despite the fact that nobody at the time, including professional
reviewers, had ever tasted the replacement.
As for myself, I shrugged my
shoulders and took a “let’s see” attitude. Even before becoming part of the Bourbon
& Banter team, I’ve always taken a #DrinkCurious attitude with whiskey.
I understood the reasons behind the decision to drop the age statement. I
understood the anger but didn’t understand the condemnation of a bottle of
something untested by anyone before even being given a fair chance.
Flash forward two years and
change… where are we now with Elijah Craig?
Elijah Craig has a private
barrel program. I’ve had the pleasure of tasting several picks anywhere from
eight to a dozen years old, and I’ve yet to find anything less than a great
barrel in the bunch. I'll happily pick these up for anywhere between $26 and
$30 when I see them. When store owners tell me they’ve got a barrel on order, I
ask them to let me know when it arrives so I can jump on it. Why? Because in my
opinion, the Elijah Craig Private Barrel program may offer the best value in
Bourbon, and they’re an obvious hit because they disappear off the shelves.
I’ve missed a few because I didn’t act quickly enough.
Barrel Proof (Batch B517) was
named Whisky of the Year by Whisky Advocate magazine. I have a
bottle of it, which I picked up well before the award issuance. I pick up
Elijah Craig Barrel Proofs because, release after release, they’re just
amazing. In Wisconsin, at least, these were very easy to find. After being
named Whisky of the Year, supply dried up. Would it make Whiskey of the Year in
my book? There are a lot of excellent whiskeys to choose from, and it would
absolutely be a serious contender.
Then, there are the
extremely difficult-to-find 18-year and older expressions. If you do see
a bottle on the shelf, it is typically way above MSRP. And, the black market?
Break out your wallets!
But, I’ve not yet touched on
the target of the bitterness – the NAS Small Batch. That’s mainly because,
until a week ago, I’d never had it. My reasons were not because of anger, not
because of a lack of opportunity, but mostly from distraction. I use bars as an
opportunity to try something new whenever possible. I was in a bar, and the
selection wasn’t huge. The Elijah Craig NAS Small Batch caught my eye and fit
the bill. And, guess what? It was flavorful, and I enjoyed it. For under $30,
it is still a fantastic bargain.
Age is merely a number.
There are a few cases when it becomes essential: Being old enough to drive, buying alcohol
(especially whiskey), collecting social security, etc.
With Bourbon, it is what’s
inside the barrel that counts. I’ve had stunning five-year Bourbons, I’ve had
unimpressive 18-year Bourbons. As private barrel programs easily prove, too
much variation from barrel to barrel goes well beyond how many years liquid
sunshine has rested. Important factors include the location of the rickhouse,
the location of the barrel inside the rickhouse, the weather, and, of course,
the combination of the staves used to create the barrel itself. Two identical
barrels of Bourbon that sit next to each other in the same rickhouse for the
same number of years will not taste the same.
If a barrel of Bourbon is
matured and delicious at four years, eight years or a dozen, what’s the number
on the label matter? Cheers!
My Simple, Easy-to-Understand
Rating System
- Bottle = Buy It
- Bar = Try It
- Bust = Leave It
Whiskeyfellow encourages
you to enjoy your whiskey as you see fit but begs you to do so responsibly.
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