Is J. Henry & Sons
Wisconsin Straight Bourbon the best Bourbon you’ve never heard of?
Most bourbon fans have
noticed an explosion in the craft distillery market these last few years with
an influx of pricey bourbons with tall tales as backstories. Some of these
craft bourbons offer something legitimately new, while others simply purchased Bourbon
from other sources with a new label slapped on it.
J. Henry & Sons
Wisconsin Straight Bourbon is one of those legitimate, new craft
bourbons and may, just perhaps, be the best Bourbon you’ve never heard of.
Yes, I said Wisconsin, and
yes, I realize Wisconsin is known for cheese, not Bourbon. Interestingly
enough, dairy has something to do with this whiskey.
Always excited to try
something new, I stumbled upon J. Henry & Sons at a local bar in June 2015.
I recognized something incredible in that glass and was hooked. Noticing this
was a locally-made Bourbon, my goal was to contact the owners, Joe and Liz
Henry, to learn more. They invited me to tour family farm in Dane, WI,
where the ingredients are grown and Bourbon is aged. There is also a gorgeous
tasting room.
I discovered the corn, which
makes up 60% of the mash, is very special. It is a red heirloom corn developed
by the University of Wisconsin in the 1930s. The larger kernels have fatter
germ that provides for more starch, giving J. Henry & Sons a sweet,
delicious aroma and palate. The farm not only grows the corn, but also the rye
and wheat.
After harvesting, the
ingredients are sent to New Richmond, WI, where the distillation process takes
place by Paul Werni of 45th Parallel using a dry, Belgian origin
yeast. Once distilled, the whiskey makes the return trip to Dane. Using #3 char
barrels sent directly to the farm by cooperages in Kentucky and Missouri, it is
barreled on site for aging.
Remember when I clued dairy
had something to do with this Bourbon? The old, uninsulated family dairy barn
has been converted into a rickhouse, which currently contains over 500 barrels.
The only climate control is what Mother Nature provides. Wisconsin’s hot
summers and brutal winters translates to intense interaction with the whiskey
and wood over a period of five years. After aging, the barrels take a short
trip to Yahara Bay’s bottling facility in Madison for packaging. When
Batch 1 released, it was completely J. Henry & Sons Wisconsin Straight
Bourbon, not anyone else’s relabeled product.
Enough of the backstory… it
is time for the review.
BOTTLE DETAILS
Bourbon Name: J. Henry &
Sons Wisconsin Straight Bourbon
Proof: 92
Age: 5 years
Year: 2015, which was the inaugural year. For the record, my bottle is from Batch 4.
How I Drank It:
Neat, in Glencairn whisky glass.
My Nose Noticed:
Crème Brulee | Vanilla | Sweet Corn | Oak | Nut | Milk Chocolate
First Sip:
Creamy Custard | Brioche | Toffee | Soft Spice | Dried Fruit
The Burn:
After the first sip, that creamy custard races around for another hit and then
lingers for a long time. The finish itself is smooth as silk. This Bourbon is
warm, but does not burn.
Neat, Splash or Rocks: To
be perfectly honest, I am not a rocks drinker. I drink Bourbon neat (even at
cask strength), and will sometimes add a few drops of water to bring out hidden
flavors. This Bourbon is just beautiful enjoyed neat. In the case of J. Henry
& Sons, water added additional creaminess to the texture and elongated the
finish.
Share With:
Anyone who wants to appreciate great Bourbon. Those new to Bourbon will find
the lack of any harshness enticing, and bourbon aficionados will recognize the
time, effort and patience that goes into a quality whiskey.
Worth The Price: J.
Henry & Sons retails between $47 and $54 depending on where you shop. You
may wonder why anyone would drop this kind of cash on a completely unknown
bourbon, and the answer is because this Bourbon is just that good. If you
normally spend over $40 on Bourbon, J. Henry & Sons should definitely be
added to your collection.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust:
Oops! I gave it away in the previous statement. Buy the bottle, then enjoy this
at home whenever you want. If the price still has you hesitant, this Bourbon is
showing up and more and more watering holes. Try a pour, and then on your way
home swing by the liquor store and get the Bottle.
Currently, J. Henry &
Sons is widely available throughout Wisconsin. However, plans are underway to
expand distribution across state lines and beyond.
My Simple, Easy-to-Understand
Rating System
- Bottle = Buy It
- Bar = Try It
- Bust = Leave It
Whiskeyfellow encourages
you to enjoy your whiskey as you see fit but begs you to do so responsibly.
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