Barrell Craft Spirits has recently released some high-end and premiere
whiskeys that go well beyond its portfolio most of us find familiar. There
exists a Gray Label series and a Gold Label series. The Gold
series is a step above the Gray, and the Gray is above the standard releases.
In
2021, I named Barrell Seagrass the winner of my Best Blended Whiskey Award.
“This is probably the most unusual whiskey I’ve tried. It was sweet. It was spicy. It was earthy. The challenge became both exciting and a little frustrating. But, as I experienced the frustration, I caught myself smiling because the mystifying quality just worked for whatever reason.”
As
such, you can imagine my excitement as I came across a 16-year age stated Gray
Label Seagrass. At the same time, I found myself concerned. Would Gray
Label be like the original? Would it be a completely different whiskey? Would
Barrell take away some of the magic I found in Seagrass?
Gray
Label Seagrass starts with 16-year 100% Canadian Rye barrels. The distiller is
undisclosed. The original Seagrass was a blend of Canadian and MGP-sourced
Rye whiskeys. So, this is already a bit different.
Those barrels were divided into two groups. A portion of the first was finished
in apricot brandy casks. A selection from the second group was transferred to
Martinique Rhum barrels. Then, a blend of the first and second groups was
finished in Malmsey Madeira barrels. From there, all were blended into a single
batch. Barrell indicates that Gray Label Seagrass is aged in Canada and the
United States and bottled at a cask strength of 130.82°.
A project like this isn’t going to come cheap. The suggested retail for Gray
Label Seagrass is $249.99 for a 750ml package.
Before
I get started on my review, I want to thank Barrell Craft Spirits for providing
me a sample and the opportunity in exchange for a no-strings-attached, honest
review. Now it is time to #DrinkCurious and taste how this pans out.
Appearance: Served neat in my Glencairn glass, Gray Label
Seagrass was the color of gold bullion. It even looked thick like melted gold. When
I gave it a gentle swirl, a thin rim led to slow, sticky tears.
Nose: As I let my glass rest on my bar, I could smell
a mix of spices filling the air. Once I brought it near my face, things became more
apparent. Well, kind-of-sort-of. The first thing I identified was cinnamon.
Then I found allspice and nutmeg. Then there was a smidge of tobacco leaf. The
aroma then changed to sweet with caramel and fresh grass. That transformed to earthy
with mushroom and ripe olive, which gave off a puff of brine. When I drew the air
through my lips, I picked out what I could swear was buttered cornbread.
Palate: The unusualness of Seagrass continued with an
airy and oily texture. I know that doesn’t sound like a plausible combination,
but that’s what it was. The apricot brandy slammed into the front of my palate.
It fell off in the middle, allowing notes of soft rye, fried plantain chips, shelled
sunflower kernels, and cherry cola. A complicated back featured oak, citrus,
green grape, plum, and smoke.
Finish: The smoke and oak flavors continued into the
finish and stuck around long enough to be the final notes. Before everything dropped
off, the cherry cola, plum, and apricot made an encore presentation and slowly
faded.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: Let’s get a few things out of the way. I’ve
been on a mission to find an enjoyable Canadian whisky for a few years and have
come up empty. Gray Label Seagrass was unlike any whiskey I’ve had, Canadian or
otherwise, and frankly, it wasn’t even reminiscent of the original Seagrass, except
for being just off-the-wall different.
It is uncommon for me to
consider paying $250.00 for a whiskey – any
whiskey. It happens, but the whiskey has to be incredible. Gray Label Seagrass
is so unlike anything else I’ve ever experienced; and because of that, I could picture myself saving up for a Bottle. If that’s too much for your budget, you’ll want to find a
good whiskey bar and buy yourself a pour or two. You’ll not regret it.
On a final note, I’m not counting this as a “win” for Canadian whisky because
this is a one-off. I’m still on that quest. Cheers!
My Simple, Easy to
Understand Rating System
- Bottle = Buy It
- Bar = Try It
- Bust = Leave It
Whiskeyfellow encourages
you to enjoy your whiskey as you see fit but begs you do so responsibly.
Hochstadter markets a 16-year-old Rye, I think for around $200. That could be the source.
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