I’ve
been following Wollersheim Winery & Distillery since before it was making
whiskey. Located in Prairie du Sac, Wisconsin, it began growing grapes in the
1840s. Peter Kehl built the winery, and his son, Jacob, started
distilling brandy around 1876.
It
distilled brandy as far back as 1876 and operated as a winery and distillery until
Prohibition shut the entire operation. In 1972, Bob Wollersheim reopened
the winery, while his son-in-law Philippe Coquard wanted to resume distilling
brandy. There was a problem: Wisconsin’s arcane laws prohibited wineries from distilling
spirits, so Wollersheim and Coquard concentrated on winemaking. In 2009,
Wisconsin entered the modern world when it passed legislation rescinding that
limitation.
“Philippe has had a lifelong love of Cognac, a particular type of grape brandy from France. His goal was to make the Coquard Brandy a Cognac-style brandy, best for sipping.” – Wollersheim Distillery
In 2015, Philippe and his
son-in-law, Tom Lenerz, erected a
separate building to house the distilling operation. Tom wanted to create not
only brandy but also whiskey, gin, and absinthe. It didn’t take him long to
tinker around with the still and distilled his unique mashbills using
locally-grown grains. In 2018, Distiller Tom (as I like to call him) released
his first whiskey: Round Top Rye.
Several whiskeys have dropped
since, including two Bottled-in-Bond Bourbons, a private barrel of Bourbon I
helped pick in 2020, and a line of experimental whiskeys aptly named The Curiosity Collection. And, here we
are in 2022 with the seventh edition of the collection.
Curiosity Collection No. 7 is a Bourbon made from a sweet mash of 75% blue
corn, 10% rye, and 15% malted barley. It aged five years in new, charred oak
and then spent an additional year in used red Port barrels. It carries a
six-year, 13-day age statement and is the oldest whiskey the distillery has bottled.
The Port barrels came from Wollersheim’s own winery and had complete control of
which barrels it believed best. It is packaged at 90°.
I
procured my 750ml bottle from the distillery for $54.00. Was this a good purchase?
The only way to know for sure is to #DrinkCurious.
Appearance: Poured neat in my Glencairn glass, this
Bourbon was the color of rust. It formed a thinner rim that created a wavy
curtain of tears.
Nose: I
discovered aromas of vanilla wafers, plum, cherry, cocoa, and nutmeg. As I
inhaled through my lips, plum dominated.
Palate: An
oily, slick texture rolled across my tongue. Flavors of cherry, plum, raisin,
and chocolate were on the front. Caramel, nutmeg, and cinnamon on the middle
led to oak, black pepper, and more plum on the back.
Finish: Long, spicy, and somewhat dry, the finish
offered notes of black pepper, oak, and a touch of cinnamon spice. I couldn’t
find any fruit notes, but there was a touch of caramel hidden amongst the spice.
A bit of pucker power made me involuntarily smack my tongue and lips.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: Distiller Tom is really coming into his own.
The first whiskeys the distillery released were notably young. But, as they’ve matured,
so have his skills. For those who felt the past Wollersheim releases were
dumped too early, Curiosity Collection No. 7 will be the one that changes your
mind. It sips so easily, and for $54.00, I’m giving this one a Bottle
rating and am happy to have it in my whiskey library. Cheers!
My Simple, Easy to
Understand Rating System
- Bottle = Buy It
- Bar = Try It
- Bust = Leave It
Whiskeyfellow encourages
you to enjoy your whiskey as you see fit but begs you do so responsibly.
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