I
have a ton of respect for our armed services and those who have served. So,
when I learned about former US Navy Prowler pilots Arch Walkins’ and Mark
McLaughlin’s stories, it garnered my attention. They both served in
different squadrons at Naval Air Station Whidbey Island in Washington and found
themselves neighbors in Baltimore post-retirement. The duo enjoyed whiskey and
decided they wanted to own and operate their own distillery.
As
luck would have it, two Vietnam veterans owned Golden Distillery in Puget
Sound and were ready to sell. Arch and Mark learned how to distill American
Single Malt whiskey and everything involved in the process at Golden. But, they
didn’t want to call Washington home; they loved Baltimore. What they didn’t
have, however, was a distillery.
While
they were trying to work out all the behind-the-scenes red tape, financing,
design, and construction of their distillery, they were introduced to the
owners at Middle West Spirits in Columbus, Ohio. After discussing
distilling and whiskey styles, the four decided to partner together, allowing
Arch and Mark to distill Old Line Spirits at Middle West. Thus, the
dream was born.
In
2016, Arch and Mark took possession of a former commercial laundry facility in
Baltimore. They converted it to a distillery, and in 2017, the duo had opened
for business. They have been going hard ever since.
Today
I’m exploring three Old Line Spirits Single Malt whiskeys: A Cask Strength, a Port-Finished,
and a Madeira-Finished. I drank
these in the order of Madeira, Port, and Cask Strength under the assumption of a
sweet to bold journey. The Cask Strength is also the base whiskey for the
others.
I
acquired the three samples from a friend curious about my opinion and asked if
I’d put together reviews of each. So, let’s #DrinkCurious and get things
started.
Cask Strength American
Single Malt
This
whiskey starts with 100% malted barley distilled through a copper pot still. It rested for two years in new, charred
American oak using smaller barrels. Packaged at 124.4°, a 750ml bottle has a
suggested retail price of $55.00.
Appearance: The
Cask Strength whiskey presented as a reddish amber. It made a thinner rim on
the wall of my Glencairn glass and released a wavy curtain of tears to fall
back into the pool.
Nose: An exciting combination of maple and
strawberry was joined by cherry and leather. When I pulled the air past my
lips, the strawberry continued.
Palate: I discovered a creamy yet light-bodied
texture. Nutmeg and cinnamon were on the front and led to caramel and maple on
the middle. The back tasted of dry oak and rye spice.
Finish: Ginger snaps, brown sugar, dry oak, and
cinnamon Red Hots created a spice-building, long finish. It left a sizzling
spot on the tip of my tongue.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: The Cask Strength is uncomplicated with some
serious spice notes. That moisture-sucking oak is a telltale sign of smaller
cooperage, which isn’t bad; it is something that happens when non-standard
American oak is used. Is it worth $55.00? Perhaps. I recommend trying this at a
Bar first, then deciding from there.
Madiera Cask Finished
American Single Malt
Next
is the Madeira finish, part of the distillery’s Double Oak Series. This one
rested at least four years in oak, then an additional six months in former
Madeira casks. It is a limited-edition whiskey offered in the Fall of 2021. A
100°, 750ml bottle was priced at $64.99 but is not available for purchase
through the distillery’s website.
Appearance: Poured
neat in my Glencairn glass, this Single Malt was the color of mahogany. A thin
rim unloaded heavy, thick tears.
Nose: Aromas
of cinnamon, nutmeg, apple, raisin, and oak competed for attention. When I drew
the air into my mouth, tobacco leaf rolled across my tongue.
Palate: An
oily, medium-weighted mouthfeel offered fruity plum, cherry, and lemon on the
front. Raisin took charge of the middle as it moved across my tongue, while
leather and tobacco leaf controlled the back.
Finish: Leather, tobacco leaf, plum, and raisin
remained for a medium-length finish.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: When I taste whiskey, there is at least one
quality that I expect to find, and with this Madeira finish, it is notably
absent. I cleansed my palate and tried it again to make sure, but try as I
might, there were no wood notes! What did that accomplish? It hid any evidence
of smaller cooperage. I enjoyed this, and I would be comfortable spending the
$64.99 for a Bottle of it (assuming
I could find one).
Port Cask Finished American
Single Malt
Last
up (and also part of the Double Oak series) is the Port finish. Old Line used
tawny port barrels, but there isn’t an indication of age. In the same vein as
the Madeira finish, the Port finish spent four years in oak before being transferred
for its six-month finishing. It, too, was a Fall 2021 limited-edition release,
bottled at 100° and formerly priced at $64.99.
Appearance: This
Single Malt looked of burnt umber in my Glencairn glass. A thin rim reluctantly
gave up fat, slow legs.
Nose: Fruit
meshed to spice, beginning with strawberry and plum, then leather, oak, and
sawdust. Strawberry dominated as I inhaled the vapor through my lips.
Palate: A buttery mouthfeel had flavors of
strawberry, plum, and apricot on the front, introducing and yanking away the
fruit as the middle became coffee, tobacco, and cocoa. The back was black
pepper and oak.
Finish: The plum came back for an encore and, like the
palate, was quickly subdued by black pepper and oak. Then the coffee returned
and painted those two out of the picture in a very, very long finish.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: The Port finish was the most fun to sip of
the three with the tug-of-war between sweet and spice. Unlike the Madeira,
sawdust remained behind, which can also indicate smaller cooperage. I was a bit
shocked the Port didn’t mask that. But, even with its fun factor, I’m not sold
at $64.99, and my final recommendation is a Bar.
Final Thoughts: Of the three, my favorite was the Madeira
finish, then the Cask Strength, and lastly, the Port finish. If you polled me
before I started, I would have predicted a reverse of that order, as I enjoy
Port-finished whiskeys. I do like what Old Line Spirits is doing; I believe
using 53-gallon barrels could also do a lot of good for this distillery.
Cheers!
My Simple, Easy to
Understand Rating System
- Bottle = Buy It
- Bar = Try It
- Bust = Leave It
Whiskeyfellow encourages
you to enjoy your whiskey as you see fit but begs you do so responsibly.
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As we should drink in moderation, all comments are subject to it. Cheers!