When
you think Arizona, you may think tequila. What doesn’t come to mind, at least
to me, is whiskey. So when a friend approached me with a bottle from Whiskey
Del Bac and asked me to review it, I couldn’t think of a single whiskey I’d
even tried from the state.
Whiskey
Del Bac is distilled at Hamilton Distillery in Tucscon. Stephen Paul
founded the distillery in 2006.
“[W]hile drinking Scotch and barbecuing with mesquite scraps from our custom furniture company, Arroyo Design, we had a thought. Why couldn’t we malt barley over mesquite instead of peat, as they do in Scotland, for a single-malt whiskey with a flavor distinctive to the American Southwest?” – Whiskey Del Bac
He
started with a 5-gallon copper pot still. In 2011, he and his daughter Amanda
acquired a 40-gallon copper pot still, and in 2014, a 500-gallon copper pot
still was installed.
It
is not uncommon for Tucson to experience 40-degree temperature variances from
morning to evening. That allows for significant interactions between liquid and
wood, quickening the aging process. Add to that 15-gallon barrels (versus
53-gallon), and it sends aging into hyperdrive.
The
distillery distills three core whiskeys:
Classic, Dorado (mesquite-smoked), and Old Pueblo (unaged).
Today I’m sipping on Classic.
Classic
begins simply enough: 100% malted barley is distilled on-site and aged 12-14
months in medium charred, medium toasted oak. It carries no age statement, and
here’s where things get confusing. Legally, for a whiskey to be sold in the
United States, it is a minimum of four years old if it bears no age statement. But
both the front and back mention nothing.
The label suggests 45% ABV (90°). However, when I visit Whiskey Del Bac’s website, its Classic is bottled at 92°. I performed a web search and found some old references at 84° and then recently the 92°.
I
assume they’ve slowly increased the alcohol content over the years. I did reach
out to Whiskey Del Bac but hadn’t heard back from them when the review was
published (and, if they respond, I will provide an addendum).
The Classic is non-chill filtered, and everything from mashing to distilling to aging and bottling is performed in-house. There are three sizes available: 100ml for $12.00, 200ml for $21.00, and 750ml for $56.00.
Appearance: Poured
neat in my Glencairn glass, this Single Malt presented as a definitive amber. A
wide, heavy rim released long, wavy legs that crawled back to the pool.
Nose: The
first aroma was herbal, which made me immediately wonder how this would fare.
It was tamed by orange peel, fresh-cut apple, cinnamon, and charred oak. When I
inhaled through my mouth, that apple carried through.
Palate: A soft, oily texture greeted my tongue. The
front tasted cocoa and vanilla cream, and the middle featured caramel and apple
pie filling. The back consisted of oak and mesquite, albeit faint.
Finish: On the finish, the mesquite became more pronounced.
Once it subsided, cocoa, oak, and dark chocolate took over. In all, the
duration was medium-to-long.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: Whiskey Del Bac Classic is a prime example of
why I #DrinkCurious. It is utterly atypical
of whiskey aged in a smaller cooperage. My bias crept in from the nose onward.
I expected sawdust on the nose and sharp oak on the palate. Neither happened.
Instead, I sipped a lovely, youthful whiskey that can compete with several
other American Single Malts. There have been talks of moving to 53-gallon
barrels, and I can’t wait to taste what comes out of those should it happen. I’m
good with a Bottle rating in its
current form. Cheers!
My Simple, Easy to
Understand Rating System
- Bottle = Buy It
- Bar = Try It
- Bust = Leave It
Whiskeyfellow encourages
you to enjoy your whiskey as you see fit but begs you do so responsibly.
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As we should drink in moderation, all comments are subject to it. Cheers!