Dr. Rachel Barrie is a brilliant Master Blender. She holds that title
at three different Brown-Forman distilleries: The GlenDronach, Glenglassaugh,
and BenRiach. She is the first female Master Blender to earn an
honorary doctorate; she is an inductee of Whisky Magazine’s “Hall of
Fame.” In September 2020, she was named a Keeper of the Quaich.
This
month, BenRiach released three of its first-ever single cask, single malt
Scotch offerings exclusive to the US market. It is called The BenRiach Cask
Edition.
“Our ‘sleeping beauties’, as we often call these casks, continue to be sourced from all over the world, enabling us to creatively explore the full flavor possibilities of Speyside Single Malt. Each cask will tell its own story of a journey of flavor where the spirit is married with oak, over years and through the seasons, to really create a unique moment in time never to be repeated again.” – Dr. Rachel Barrie
Today
I have an opportunity, thanks to BenRiach, to #DrinkCurious and write
a no-strings-attached, honest review of all three. They’re all naturally colored,
non-chill filtered, and each has a very different cooperage.
Something
new and different is the packaging. We’re used to 750ml bottles in the United
States. With updated regulations, 700ml is now allowable for our market.
Let’s
get to the first pour!
Cask #3812 – 12 Years
Cask #3812 was distilled in 2009 and spent a dozen years in a former Pedro Ximénez sherry puncheon. The yield was 642 bottles at its 58.2% cask strength (116.4°). You can expect to pay about $100 on one of 642 - 700ml bottles, which is limited in availability to CA, KY, OR, WA, GA, MA, and NY.
Appearance: Served
neat in my Glencairn glass, Cask #3812 appeared coppery and created a thin rim.
Medium-weighted legs raced back to the pool.
Nose: A fragrance
of apricot and raisin jumped from the glass while it was still resting on the
table. Upon closer inspection, I found chocolate, caramel, and orange peel. The
orange peel turned candied as I took that air into my mouth.
Palate: A
silky, full-bodied texture greeted my tongue, captivating my interest. The
front of my palate encountered milk chocolate, butterscotch, and honey, while
the middle featured lemon and orange zest combined with raisin. On the back, I
tasted leather, oak, and nuts.
Finish: The
long-lasting finish kept leather, tobacco, dark chocolate, and oak in my mouth
and throat.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: Cask #3812 is a sip-and-smile whisky. That’s
about the best description I can offer. Yeah, it is a 12-year with a $100
asking price. But, it is cask strength, yet doesn’t drink at that proof. It is a
single barrel, (obviously) limited-edition Scotch. And, dammit, it is
delicious. I’d pay $100 all day long for this; I just wish it was anywhere near
my market. It is a Bottle rating for
sure!
◊◊◊◊◊
Cask #10297 – 23 Years
Cask #10297 delves into that much more rare territory, distilled back in 1997 and spent 23 years in a vintage Marsala wine cask. The yield was only 264 bottles spread around AZ, CO, DC, DE, FL, IL, MD, MN, NV, PA, SC, and WI. A 55.4% ABV (110.8°) – 700ml package will set you back about $330.00.
Appearance: A neat
pour in my Glencairn glass showed this Scotch’s orange-amber appearance. A
thinner rim released medium-thick, fast legs.
Nose: Floral
notes were joined by fruits such as peach, cherry, and citrus. They were
blended together with thick, dense vanilla. Inhaling through my mouth caused
orange and vanilla to dance across my tongue.
Palate: The
mouthfeel was thick and creamy. Vanilla, strawberry, and cherry started things
off, with orange zest and honey at mid-palate. The back consisted of dark
chocolate, oak, and clove.
Finish: Medium in duration, the finish featured
flavors of cherry, strawberry, oak, and clove.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: Cask #10297 was elegant and unique. The only
thing I could complain about the tasting experience was that short finish. I
kept sipping more as I wanted to retain those flavors in my mouth; they never
stuck. The question becomes, would I pay $330.00 for this whisky? I’m not
convinced. But, you should absolutely try this at a Bar if you can find it.
◊◊◊◊◊
Cask #15058
– 24 Years
Finally, there’s Cask #15058. This single malt Scotch was distilled in 1997 and slept 24 years in an Oloroso puncheon. It weighs in at 55.4% (110.8°), and the yield was a surprising 641 – 700ml bottles. Availability is extremely limited to GA, MA, NY, and unnamed metropolitan areas around the country. If you see one, expect to shell out $388.00 for it.
Appearance: Poured
neat in my Glencairn glass, this whisky appeared as liquid caramel. Try as I
might, I could not get a rim to form. It just kept collapsing into long, wavy
tears.
Nose: I started craving dessert when my olfactory
sense ran into vanilla, caramel, cinnamon apple, Nutella, and oak. Cinnamon and
vanilla tangoed in my mouth as I pulled the vapor inside.
Palate: A slick, oily mouthfeel ponied up orange
marmalade, apricot, and cinnamon apple on the front, with chocolate, hazelnut,
and black currant at the middle. The back featured leather, tobacco, and
caramel.
Finish: The leather became very dry on the finish.
Tobacco leaf, raisin, and oak were about to complete it when a non-peaty, smoky
kiss closed things out.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: Have you ever dreamt of sipping on a fine
Scotch in your private study? Well, Cask #15058 fits that bill perfectly. It is
a sultry, sophisticated pour that commands your full attention. Sure, it is a
$380.00 investment, but you’ll bite the bullet and prove how smart you were to
grab a Bottle.
Final Thoughts: It was so fun to try all three of these
single cask Scotches. The 12-year is my favorite, partially because I’m a
sucker for an excellent PX-cask whisky, and it is a heck of a value to boot.
Next was the 24-year. It is, simply put, an experience. The third was the
23-year. It was a lovely pour; I couldn’t justify its outlay.
My Simple, Easy to
Understand Rating System
- Bottle = Buy It
- Bar = Try It
- Bust = Leave It
Whiskeyfellow encourages
you to enjoy your whiskey as you see fit but begs you do so responsibly.
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