Some
distilleries do something different, and then some distilleries do something
way off the norm. How many whiskeys are you aware of that are distilled from
Indian corn and whose grains are smoked with apple and cherry wood?
In
Deadwood, South Dakota, there exists a distillery called West River Whiskey
Co. Bourbon is the name of the game, and the owners are shooting for the
moon. The Bourbon was released around Christmas 2021.
“West River Whiskey Co. is like the annoying (yet adorable) little brother to sister-store Madame Peacock's Beer & Bling. Originally from Mitchell, Tom and Julie Koth opened Madame Peacock's in 2012 after falling in love with Deadwood and the Black Hills. Almost a decade later, they partnered with Julie's daughter, Alex, and her husband, Joel, from Nashville, Tennessee to bring Main Street in Deadwood a so-far untapped (ha) concept.” – West River Whiskey Co.
It
starts with that Indian corn, which per the distillery, it contains more germ,
bran, and nutrients than your average #2 dent yellow corn. The grains are grown
by a local fourth-generation farming family. It is distilled twice through a
copper pot still, then aged in #3 new, charred Missouri Ozark White Oak oak
casks. It is aged at least four years, and you can procure an 80° 750ml bottle
for $47.99.
The
whiskey is sourced from BlackFork Farms, an artisan distillery out of
Brookings. However, West River Distilling Co.’s Bourbon is considered the
Official Bourbon of Deadwood. A portion of every bottle sold goes to the Deadwood
Chamber of Commerce.
A
friend passed along a sample of this Bourbon and requested a review. Let’s #DrinkCurious
and figure this one out.
Appearance: A neat
pour of this Bourbon in my Glencairn glass suggested a light caramel color. A
thicker rim released thick legs that fell to the pool like molasses.
Nose: Cinnamon
powder, smoked oak, corn, and caramel rose from the neck of my glass. When I
drew the air through my lips, the smoked apple and cherry wood stood out.
Palate: A thin,
watery mouthfeel rolled over my tongue. The front of my palate discovered thick
caramel and vanilla, while the middle tasted of toasted oak and corn. The back
offered a soft pepper flavor to it.
Finish: There
was something mildly sour on the back end, but I couldn’t put my finger on it.
It wasn’t an offensive note; to be clear, it wasn’t some sour fruit. This
Bourbon had a medium-short finish that featured smoked oak and light pepper.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: I got
excited with the notion of Indian corn over a standard #2 yellow dent and
looked forward to the experience. Corn makes a difference, but in the case of
Wild River Whiskey’s Bourbon, the 80° muted much of what was there. I believe
it was appropriately aged; however, it requires more alcohol content to make
the flavors shine.
It isn’t a bad Bourbon but
isn’t memorable, which is a shame because it has potential. I’d love to explore
this if it carries more weight down the road. In its present form, and running
nearly $50.00, there’s just not enough value for the price, even considering
the Deadwood Chamber of Commerce angle.
If you are in Deadwood and
want something to bring home as a souvenir, go for it. But, as a Bourbon, this
one ranks a Bust. I'd rate it a Bar if the price were $10.00 to
$15.00 less. Cheers!
My Simple, Easy to
Understand Rating System
- Bottle = Buy It
- Bar = Try It
- Bust = Leave It
Whiskeyfellow encourages
you to enjoy your whiskey as you see fit but begs you do so responsibly.
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