The
first distillery in Chatanooga opened in 1866 and was called Deep Springs
Distillery. James Watt Kelly founded it. He was born in Ireland and
emigrated to the United States at a young age. Before Deep Springs Distillery,
he owned a storefront and was a rectifier, selling his own brands of whiskey
and wine. He was looking to move to New York when he stopped in Chatanooga to
collect on a debt. He didn’t make it back to New York.
“J.W. Kelly & Co. consisted of two important partnerships in the beginning. The first one began in 1866 when Kelly partnered with an Alabama grocer named J.G. Webb. Kelly & Webb were importers and wholesalers of foreign fruits, French confectionary, nuts, spices, jellies, and imported Cuban, German, and domestic cigars. Their partnership dissolved in 1876.
The second partnership was with George W. Davenport; which began near the end of 1876 and expanded beyond groceries, whiskey, and tobacco. They bought and sold real estate; which included buying several bars and saloons and reselling the leases to others to run them for the company. They were prominent landlords for stores and private homes, as well as meeting spaces. G.W. Davenport retired from the firm in July 1890.” – Keeper’s Quest Brands
Deep
Springs Distillery ran a decade beyond Kelly’s death when Prohibition reared
its ugly head, and eight years later, the distillery was demolished.
Then,
in 2016, Keeper’s Quest Brands, led by CEO Ed Kohl, revived the JW Kelly
& Co. brand. Keeper’s Quest is also the owner of Smokehead, Macleod’s,
Beinn Dubh, and Riachi, amongst others. In 2017, JW Kelly
& Co. launched Old Milford Bourbon, its first entry into the
market, followed by Old Milford Single Barrel Select, Melrose Rye,
Golden Age Straight Rye, and most recently, The Read House, a
Bourbon released to commemorate the 150th year of the brand.
Today
I’m exploring Melrose. This “double-barreled” Rye was sourced from an
undisclosed Kentucky distillery and aged for two years in air-dried white oak
that was lightly toasted and then charred. That matured whiskey was then
transferred for a few weeks to casks that previously held Amarone Italian red
wine for 15 years. Packaged at 46% ABV (92°), a 750ml bottle has a suggested
price of $59.99.
So,
what’s all that mean? Let’s #DrinkCurious and find out. But, before we
do, I must thank Keeper’s Quest for providing me with a sample in exchange for
a no-strings-attached, honest review.
Appearance: Served
neat in my Glencairn glass, Melrose presented as a rich, coppery color and left
a medium-thin rim to the wall. It didn’t take long for thicker legs to drop
back into the pool.
Nose: As I allowed
this whiskey to rest, the smell of clove and ginger kept teasing me. It was
still there when I was ready to explore what was inside my glass, joined by red
wine, vanilla, orange peel, and cinnamon. The orange peel became almost meaty
as I drew the vapor into my mouth.
Palate: A
silky, weighty texture opened the door to plum, cherry, and honey on the front.
Midway through, I tasted brown sugar, dense rye bread, and chocolate. The back
featured clove, ginger, oak, and cinnamon spice.
Finish: The journey's
end began softly with spiced plums and dark chocolate, then crescendoed with
ginger, clove, and oak over a medium-long duration.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: JW
Kelly & Co.’s Melrose Rye is a nice change from the “me too” American Ryes
on the market. There was nothing to complain about. If you like flavorful Ryes,
Melrose does that. If you want a luxurious mouthfeel, Melrose has it. If you
desire a slow-sipping whiskey, Melrose knocks that out of the ballpark. All of
this for $60.00? Are you kidding me? Melrose is what Bottle ratings are all about. Cheers!
My Simple, Easy-to-Understand
Rating System
- Bottle = Buy It
- Bar = Try It
- Bust = Leave It
Whiskeyfellow encourages
you to enjoy your whiskey as you see fit but begs you do so responsibly.
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