There
are whiskey purists out there. There’s nothing in the world wrong with that; it
is what floats their boat. The brown water enthusiasts I’m talking about want their
Bourbons and American Ryes aged in new, charred oak vessels and have the chips
fall where they may.
However,
in my opinion, when you erect barriers and refuse to venture beyond them, you
miss out on a lot. Blenders, distillers, and independent bottlers are doing
some mind-blowing things with Bourbon and Rye. Many of those involve barrel
finishing.
The
purist might argue that all a finishing barrel does is allow you to salvage bad
whiskey. I don't see it this way. Sure, some brands out there are stuck with
sub-par barrels and want to recoup their investment. But talented blenders and
distillers find ways to take great whiskey and make it even better.
Wait.
Back that truck up a moment. What’s barrel
finishing? Simply put, it is taking a mature whiskey, dumping it, and then
placing it in a different barrel for additional aging. That further aging can
range from a few weeks to even years. Also, the sky is the limit to what you
can use in barrel finishing. Some brands will use virgin oak (charred or
otherwise). Others will use vintage wine, whiskey, tequila, honey, coffee,
beer, and even things like Tobasco sauce! The point is that the second barrel
imparts its characteristics on the whiskey inside it.
The
Scots have been doing this forever. They commonly use former Bourbon barrels, as
American distilleries had many of them they couldn’t reuse. Sherry butts and
port pipes are also reused for finishing purposes.
But,
in the United States, we have purists. They have their reasons, and while I don’t
embrace them, I understand.
Today
I’m reviewing two selections from Pursuit United. The brand was formed
by Kenny Coleman and Ryan Cecil of the well-known and respected
podcast called Bourbon Pursuit. In 2018, they began a company called Pursuit
Spirits, which sourced Straight Bourbons and Ryes to create its blends. I’ve
reviewed their first and second releases.
The Oak Collection is the third release. It consists of a Bourbon and
Rye. The Oak Collection is billed “[a]n
ongoing series of curated whiskey blends and barrel finishes that provide an exploration
of taste and constant innovation.”
Before
I get to the reviews of each, let’s group their shared commonalities. Both
whiskeys have limited distribution to Illinois (exclusive to Binny’s),
Kentucky, Missouri, New Mexico, Tennessee (Knoxville only), Texas, and online
from Seelbachs. A 750ml bottle of either has a suggested retail price of
$74.99. Both are packaged at 54% ABV (108°). Neither offers an age statement.
Finally,
I thank Pursuit Spirits for providing me with samples of each in exchange for
my no-strings-attached, honest reviews. Let’s #DrinkCurious and get on with
it.
Straight Bourbon Finished
with Toasted American and French Oak
When sampling a Bourbon and Rye on the same flight, I’ll almost always sip the Bourbon first. In theory, flavors tend to be more mellow, whereas Ryes tend to offer a bolder experience.
This
Bourbon is a blend of three mashbills from three distilleries:
- A Tennessee distillery that is not George Dickel
- 80% corn
- 10% rye
- 10% malted barley
- Finger Lakes Distilling
- 70% corn
- 20% rye
- 10% cherry smoked barley
- Ross & Squibb (formerly MGP)
- 60% corn
- 35% rye
- 4% malted barley
Appearance: Poured
neat in my Glencairn glass, the Bourbon was a bright orange amber. A thin rim
created straight, narrow legs that crashed back into the pool of liquid
sunshine.
Nose: I encountered
an aroma of orange zest, caramel, milk chocolate, and hazelnuts. As I drew the
air past my lips, orange citrus filled my mouth.
Palate: The
front of my palate tasted dark chocolate, hazelnut, and cherry, while the
middle found caramel, vanilla, and cola. The back offered clove, French oak,
and barrel char. The mouthfeel was tingly with a medium body.
Finish: If you
relish Energizer Bunny finishes, this Bourbon will make you smile. It went on
for several minutes, allowing the tingling, clove, char, and cola to remain.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: The
tingling was a distraction, making me wonder how this is only 108°. In an
unusual move, I added two drops of distilled water to my glass to see if that
would tame it. When I did that, the nose exploded with caramel notes, the
texture became creamy, and the palate remained the same. Weirdly, the water
seemed only to increase the sizzle. I can’t get past it. You’ll want to try
this one at a Bar before you commit
to a purchase.
◊◊◊◊◊
Straight Rye Finished with
Sherry French Revere Oak
The Rye is made from three mashbills from two distilleries:
- Bardstown Bourbon Company
- 95% rye
- 5% malted barley
- Sagamore
Spirit #1
- 95% rye
- 5% malted barley
- Sagamore
Spirit #2
- 52% rye
- 43% corn
- 5% malted barley
Appearance: Again,
I sampled this neat from my Glencairn glass. It appeared coppery-orange and
formed a medium-weight rim. The tears were watery and fell faster than I could
keep track.
Nose: Coconut,
papaya, starfruit, and berry formed the aroma, and when I pulled the vapor into
my mouth, I discovered more toasted coconut.
Palate: The oily
mouthfeel introduced me to berry, cherry, and plum flavors. Those weren’t
surprising, considering the sherry influence. Midway through, I tasted brown
sugar and chocolate. The back featured rye spice, black pepper, and oak.
Finish: An
artificial cherry flavor, much like Nyquil, covered almost everything. There was
cocoa powder, black pepper, and rye spice.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: Cherry
cough syrup is not something I find often, but it also isn’t something I enjoy.
I returned to this a second day, and it was still there. That’s a show-stopper
for me. I gave it a third chance, this time with two drops of water. That
Nyquil sensation didn’t go away. As much as I don’t want to do it, I have to
rate this one a Bust.
My Simple, Easy-to-Understand
Rating System
- Bottle = Buy It
- Bar = Try It
- Bust = Leave It
Whiskeyfellow encourages
you to enjoy your whiskey as you see fit but begs you do so responsibly.
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