If
you’re unfamiliar with American Rye whiskey, there are two major classic styles:
Pennsylvania and Maryland. Pennsylvania style, also called Monongahela
style, is often spicy, bold, dry, and with a more significant oak influence. It
typically has a mashbill of rye and malted barley.
Maryland,
on the other hand, is milder, with fruit and floral notes. It comes from adding
corn to the mashbill. Due to the added ingredient, Maryland-style rye is
sweeter and tones down the more pronounced spiciness of its Pennsylvania
cousin.
Leopold
Bros. of Denver is a distillery headed by the
much-respected Todd
Leopold. My impression of Todd is he likes to
do things that distillers have abandoned. Founded in 1999, the distillery
has the largest malting floor in the United States. Everything is done
in-house. There’s no sourcing of anything, including the botanicals from the
garden just outside the open fermentation tanks. Those botanicals create the wild
yeast used in, well, everything.
Perhaps
Todd’s most well-known project is the revival of the three-chamber still, the
only working version in the United States.
Today
I’m exploring Leopold
Bros. Maryland-Style Rye. Todd made
Maryland-style rye in 2011 before any Maryland distilleries revived the
process. Leopold Bros. Maryland-Style Rye’s remaining stocks were shelved three
years ago. That allowed the whiskey to age five years on the distillery’s earthen
floor warehouse. In 2022, it was re-introduced as a Bottled-in-Bond
whiskey. It is non-chill filtered and packaged at its legally-required 100° and
can only be obtained for $80.00 at the distillery’s Denver tasting room.
I’m
giving a big shout-out to one of my amazing friends in Denver, who gave me a
sample of this American Rye and asked requested my thoughts. So, let’s #DrinkCurious
and taste what it is all about.
Appearance: I
sipped this Rye neat from my Glencairn glass. The liquid appeared as a
brilliant orange amber and formed a medium-thin rim. Slow, syrupy tears rolled
down the wall.
Nose: There
was not a spice punch to my nostrils that I would have expected. Instead, I
smelled a perfume of floral rye, honey, lemon zest, vanilla, and oak. My tongue
encountered honey and lemon when I pulled the air through my lips.
Palate: A
full-bodied, oily texture coated the entire inside of my mouth. The front of my
palate tasted the floral botanicals from the distillery’s garden. I can’t tell
you what specific flowers are involved, but they were prominent and diverse. Midway
through, I encountered pear, honey, and peach, while the back featured cinnamon,
cocoa, and oak notes.
Finish: A spice
bomb exploded in my mouth featuring wood tannins, rye spice, and cinnamon Red Hots.
Those flavors stuck around for several minutes before they eventually subsided.
A warming sensation was left in my throat.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: Based
upon what I read of Maryland-style Ryes, the back of the palate and finish took
me by surprise. The spice was anything but mild. Yet, I wasn’t disappointed. Those
flavors reminded me I was sipping on an American Rye, not some other whiskey
type.
Leopold Bros. Maryland Style
Bottled-in-Bond Rye is one of those whiskeys you’re not going to run across
every day. It isn’t MGP, Barton, or Heaven Hill. At the same
time, it isn’t like what I’ve tasted from Sagamore Spirit. Instead, it
is in a class by itself. And, because of that, it earned my Bottle
rating. Cheers!
My Simple, Easy-to-Understand
Rating System
- Bottle = Buy It
- Bar = Try It
- Bust = Leave It
Whiskeyfellow encourages
you to enjoy your whiskey as you see fit but begs you do so responsibly.
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