Riachi's Lebanese Whisky Reviews: Levant Heights Malt & Wheat, Levant Heights Dark Malt, and Athyr Cedarwood Finish
Sometimes,
there are sipping opportunities that excite me. It may be a unique, rare
bottle. It might be something on my bucket list. It could be a new whisky from
one of my favorite distilleries. Then, there’s an opportunity for a whole
new-to-me whisky category.
Today
is one such day; I get to sample three Lebanese whiskies from Riachi Winery & Distillery. I didn’t even know Lebanon made whisky!
Founded
in Khenchara, Lebanon, by Moses
Riachi in 1839, the winery came from humble
beginnings. Moses did not have much money, but he invited neighbors from his
village to his tiny home for the annual Nahar Al Baraka (Day of the
Blessing) celebration. He made wine, and the general consensus was it was good.
Shortly beforehand, Moses could no longer afford to host the party; he lost
nearly everything except his goat, house, and wine. At that point, he legally
entered the wine business. By the time
Moses was ready to pass along his business to his children, he was selling his
wine to over 30 villages!
One
of Moses’s sons, Hanna, took the helm, and in the 1930s, Hanna introduced
liqueur to the portfolio. One of his sons, Georges, showed interest in the business and
eventually purchased the shares his brother owned, making him the sole
proprietor. Georges expanded to include syrups.
In
1975, Lebanon experienced a 15-year civil war that nearly bankrupted the
company. Georges’ sons were running things, and to survive, they began to
export their products and entered into private label agreements. The Riachi
name was diluted since their branded products were no longer being produced.
George’s
grandson, Roy, took the reigns, and his mission was to revive the
Riachi brand. The company remains 100% family-owned and is also the first in
Lebanon to distill and age whisky.
I’ve
been provided with three expressions: Levant Heights Malt & Wheat, Levant
Heights Dark Malt, and Athyr Cedarwood Finish.
Important to note is that these whiskies have not yet been released to the American
market. You can sign up on Riachi’s American
website to reserve bottles. Pricing on all
three has not been finalized. As such, the recommendations will be based solely
on how each whisky performs and not consider a value statement.
EDIT: I was at Antioch Fine Wine & Liquors in Antioch, Illinois on Saturday and happened to see these on the shelf. As such, I will use those prices as a reference point.
I’ll
use my trusty Glencairn glass with each of these. Before I can #DrinkCurious,
I must thank Keeper’s Quest, Inc., Riachi’s American importer, for providing me
with these samples in exchange for my no-strings-attached, honest reviews. And
now, let’s get to the show.
Levant Heights Malt & Wheat
First
is an Irish-influenced Single Pot Still whisky called Continental Malt &
Wheat. The mash consists of malted barley and Lebanese durum wheat, which was
double-distilled through an 1800-liter copper pot still. Entry proof was 58%
ABV (116°) into new, white oak barrels with a light toast and light char. The
whisky rested for three years while the angels stole between 1% and 2%
annually. Naturally colored and non-chill filtered, it was packaged at 46% ABV
(92°) in a 750ml bottle. At the Antioch liquor store, it was marked at $41.99.
Appearance: A neat
pour revealed a brilliant gold liquid that formed a medium-thick rim on the
wall of my glass. Big but very slow tears fell back into the pool.
Nose: Malt
and lemon zest were first to my nostrils. Blanched almonds and freshly-baked
bread were next, with lightly-smoked oak trailing. When I pulled that air in through
my lips, roasted almond rolled over my tongue.
Palate: A thin
but creamy mouthfeel started things off. I tasted nutmeg, baked apples, and
poppy seed on the front of my palate. The middle included cardamom and
chocolate, while the back featured anise, cooked banana, and smoked oak.
Finish: The
long – make that very long finish was flooded with smoky oak, but anise,
banana, cocoa powder, and cardamom were busy treading water.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: Malt & Wheat is unlike any previous whisky I’ve explored. The
spices, fruit, chocolate, and smoke complimented one another, and I kept
returning for another sip. I don’t care for anise, but even that blended well
with the other flavors. The mouthfeel, which typically isn’t a huge component,
really tied things together, making for a truly lovely, utterly unique
experience. Obviously, this one earns a Bottle rating.
◊◊◊◊◊
Levant
Heights Dark Malt
The second whisky in line is the Dark Malt. It is a single malt whisky. Riachi indicates it is the “first 100% dark malted barley originally intended for dark ales and stouts.” Specifically, Riachi used espresso-roasted chocolate and Munich malts and sent the mash through its copper pot still.
Entry proof was 58% ABV (116°) into new, white oak barrels with a heavy toast and light char. The whisky rested for three years, is non-chill filtered, and naturally colored. Dark Malt is sold in a 750ml package at 43% ABV (86°). The Antioch store had a listed price of $43.99.
Appearance: While
the whisky was clear, it possessed a rusty color. A brawny rim yielded thick
legs that raced down the wall of the glass.
Nose: If you
had any doubts that the malts were espresso roasted, those vanished once Dark
Malt was smelled. It was as if I shoved my face into a pile of dark-roasted
coffee beans and inhaled. Dark chocolate and fennel were buried beneath. As I
drew the air into my mouth, all I could taste was vanilla.
Palate: A silky
texture glided across my tongue and down my throat. A mix of mocha and vanilla
cream formed the front. It instantly transformed into maple syrup, English
toffee, and dark chocolate once it crossed mid-palate. The coffee notes
intensified into rich espresso while dark chocolate and peanut butter rounded
things out on the back.
Finish: The
chocolate, peanut butter, and espresso continued into the finish. It was rich,
creamy, and lasted for a medium duration.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: Dark
Malt was more like a dessert liqueur than any whisky. This was 43% ABV? I would
have guessed it was in the low thirties if I didn’t know any better. It is what
I classify as a dangerous pour because it goes down a little too quickly.
The whisky is simply delightful, even if you’re not a coffee drinker (I am not).
I loved it; you will, too. It snags my Bottle rating.
◊◊◊◊◊
Athyr
Cedarwood Finish
Athyr is a single malt whisky aged six years in terracotta clay pots cured with Lebanese oak. This is a traditional way to age spirits in Lebanon. Once those six years expired, the whisky was transferred to red cedarwood casks to rest for another year. Bottled at 56% ABV (112°), Athyr Cedarwood is a USA-exclusive whisky. Packaging includes a 700ml bottle in a wood frame. I saw this priced at $129.99 at the Antioch store.
Appearance: Athyr
is the darkest of the three whiskies, with a deep, reddish hue. It also had the
most prominent rim, dropping a curtain of legs against the wall of my glass.
Nose: The
first note I identified was anise, and it was bold. Molasses, chocolate, date, and
leather were also evident. Inhaling the vapor through my mouth brought sweet
fig and date.
Palate: The sticky,
syrupy texture stuck to the roof of my mouth. Flavors of toffee, molasses, and saffron
started the journey across my palate, with nutmeg, fennel, and cocoa midway
through. The back featured tastes of coffee, caramel, and cedar.
Finish: The
finish had a medium-long duration, with lots of fennel, cedar, saffron, and
coffee that confused my taste buds.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: I felt Athyr
drank way below its stated proof. The cedar finish contributed to much of this
whisky’s character, and I guess that’s where the fennel and saffron originated.
Neither are favorites of mine, and I found getting past those notes
challenging. If these are your jam, then you’ll be a happy camper. If your desires
are closer to mine, this is one of those whiskies you’ll want to sample at a Bar
first.
Final Thoughts: The Dark
Malt was the winner in this contest, closely followed by Malt & Wheat. The
gap widened when it came to the Athyr Cedarwood Finish. Lebanese whiskies are
far different from any other kind I’ve tried to date. This was a fascinating
experience; I’m so happy I could take part in it. Cheers!
My Simple, Easy-to-Understand
Rating System
- Bottle = Buy It
- Bar = Try It
- Bust = Leave It
Whiskeyfellow encourages
you to enjoy your whiskey as you see fit but begs you do so responsibly.
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