Woodford Reserve’s "Historic Barrel Entry" Bourbon (Winter 2022 Master's Collection) Review & Tasting Notes

If you hear the term dusties, the person using it is talking about whiskeys made long ago. Almost always, the term is used with great fondness. You may wonder why there’s so much nostalgia surrounding dusties, and there’s a valid explanation.

 

You see, whiskeys made today are typically made differently than they were of yesteryear. You could have the same brand with the same mashbill and run through the same still. The whiskey could be aged in the same char level for the same period and using the same non-chill filtered methods. The proof in the bottle is the same.

 

So, why does the whiskey taste different? Well, there’s one part of the equation that differs: entry proof. Back in the day, the entry proof of the whiskey into the barrel was lower than in modern times. The reason is mostly economics; the higher the entry proof, the more whiskey bottles can be filled from a single barrel.

 

In 1935, the Federal Alcohol Administration Act set a standard for a whiskey’s entry proof to be between 80° and 110°. That remained in place until 1962 when the upper limit was raised to 125°. Most distillers were utilizing an entry proof in the neighborhood of 107°. The lower the entry proof, the better the distillate interacts with the sugars that are part of the barrel’s wood.

 

On the flip side, it matters when you add water. Let’s say that you plan to bottle your Bourbon at 86°, and it comes off the still at 160°. Legally, you need to bring that down 35 points before it can go in the barrel. The whiskey will age, the proof is likely to increase due to the angel’s share (evaporation) as it does, and once dumped, you’ll need to add a ton of water to get to 86°. That’s diluting a lot of flavors.

 

Conversely, when you dilute entry proof down to 110°, it can still gain strength when it ages. However, you will add less water once dumped because it went in at the lower proof. Thus, the flavors are richer and closer to what came from the aging process than if it was at 125°. Capiche?

 

Why is all of the above important? Because today I’m sipping on Woodford Reserve’s Historic Barrel Entry Bourbon, part of the 2022 Master’s Collection. Entry proof on this was 100° and was bottled at Woodford’s regular 90.4°. Otherwise, this is the same 72% corn, 18% rye, and 10% malted barley mashbill that Woodford currently utilizes and aged in the same #4 charred oak barrels. It carries no age statement, and a 700ml package has a suggested retail price of $129.99.

 

I thank Woodford Reserve for sending me a sample of this unique Bourbon in exchange for a no-strings-attached, honest review. Let’s #DrinkCurious and taste what the big deal is.

 

Appearance: I sipped this Bourbon neat in my trusty Glencairn glass. The burnt umber liquid offered a narrow rim with syrupy tears that crawled back into the pool.

 

Nose: The aroma was anything but shy, tossing a blast of rich, thick vanilla to my nostrils. Nutmeg, graham crackers, and pear followed. As I drew the air through my lips, vanilla, and pear rolled across my tongue.

 

Palate: The mouthfeel was oily and full-bodied. The nose was heavy on the vanilla, but the palate was incredibly fruity. The front delivered stewed bananas, blueberries, and plums, while Asian pears, black cherries, and hazelnuts were featured at mid-palate. The back was spicy with clove, oak, and cocoa powder.

 

Finish: The flavors of banana, thick chocolate, fresh leather, citrus, cinnamon, and clove stuck around for a medium-long duration. And, while the Bourbon was only 90.4°, my hard palate was left with a slight sizzling sensation.   

 

Bottle, Bar, or Bust: While I didn’t have a bottle of the standard Woodford Reserve on hand to make a head-to-head comparison, I do recall how it smelled and tasted. These cousins are far from identical. Historical Entry Barrel is an experience and one you should partake in. Yes, it is pricy, but a modern-day dusty comes around once in a blue moon. I’m happy to confer my Bottle rating for it. Cheers!

 

My Simple, Easy-to-Understand Rating System

• Bottle = Buy It
• Bar = Try It
• Bust = Leave It

 

Whiskeyfellow encourages you to enjoy your whiskey as you see fit but begs you do so responsibly.