On
April 15th, 2023, Rock Town
Distillery will release its newest Bourbons, the Column Still Collection. The grains come from Arkansas. Usually, distillation
would occur right there in Little Rock. However, in this case, those grains
were shipped to Bardstown
Bourbon Company in Kentucky on its column still. The
whiskey was then transported back to Little Rock for on-site aging.
But,
who, or what, is Rock Town Distillery? In 2009, Phil Brandon left corporate
America. In 2010, he and his wife, Diana, built a distillery in Little Rock to offer the highest-quality
distilled spirits at an affordable price.
Rock
Town makes a variety of whiskeys, vodkas, liqueurs (including a Bourbon Cream),
as well as a gin. You can peruse all of what it offers on its website.
The
big release is not your average gathering. Rock Town has billed it as The
Rock Town Road Trip. Starting at 11am at the distillery, the first 50
people who buy a bottle will also receive a swag bag. Then, the Barrel and Bung
Games begin. Phil will sign bottles, and there will be whiskey and snack
pairings along with food trucks. Finally, at 7pm, Phil will lead a ticketed
Master Class.
Today
I’m reviewing the three whiskeys included in the release: a Small Batch Straight Bourbon, a Toasted
French Oak Barrel Finish Straight Bourbon,
and a Single Barrel Cask Strength
Straight Bourbon. Before I can do that, I must thank
Rock Town Spirits for providing me with samples in exchange for my
no-strings-attached, honest reviews.
Let’s #DrinkCurious.
Small
Batch Straight Bourbon
The
mashbill is 79% Arkansas corn, 8% Arkansas wheat, and 13% malted barley. This
Bourbon aged for 34 months in new, charred oak barrels, then packaged at 46% ABV
(92°). You can expect to pay about $39.99 for a 750ml.
Appearance: This
Bourbon was a brilliant orange-amber in my Glencairn glass. A thicker rim
formed syrupy tears.
Nose: An
aroma of corn, cherry, marshmallow, and nougat wafted from the glass. When I
drew the air through my lips, I found cherry vanilla.
Palate: I
sipped this neat. A thin, oily texture greeted my tongue. Flavors of corn and
vanilla were on the front of my palate. The middle tasted of tobacco leaf,
while the back featured clove, black pepper, and dry oak.
Finish: Tobacco
leaf, black pepper, clove, and dry oak created an extremely long, spicy finish.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: At 92°,
the assumption would be this Bourbon would be an easy-sipper. I was also
surprised at how heavy of an oak influence it possessed. It drank way above its
stated proof. There wasn’t much depth to it. I believe this fairly deserves a Bar
rating.
◊◊◊◊◊
Toasted French Oak Barrel
Finish Straight Bourbon
The mashbill is 79%
Arkansas corn, 8% Arkansas wheat, and 13% malted barley. It rested for 34
months in new, charred oak barrels before being transferred to toasted French
oak casks. A 50% ABV (100°) 750ml bottle costs $69.99.
Appearance: Poured
neat, this Bourbon had a deep reddish hue in my Glencairn glass. The medium rim
formed long, thick legs.
Nose: There
was no doubt French oak was involved. I smelled cherries, plums, caramel, and the
requisite tannins. A smoky sensation crawled across my tongue when I inhaled
the air past my lips.
Palate: The silky
mouthfeel introduced my palate to cocoa nibs and dusty corn flavors. I tasted dark
chocolate can caramel in the middle. The back consisted of clove, nutmeg, and
smoked oak.
Finish: The
entire palate remained on the finish, which was medium-long in duration.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: Like
the Small Batch Bourbon, the Toasted French Oak Barrel Finish was warm and
spicy. The smokey quality was welcome; it added a touch of depth that the Small
Batch lacked. However, $69.99 is steep for what’s in the glass. This, too,
earns my Bar rating.
◊◊◊◊◊
Single Barrel Cask Strength
Straight Bourbon
Their 79% Arkansas corn, 8%
Arkansas wheat, and 13% malted barley recipe aged for 34 months in a single
barrel before being hand-selected by Phil Brandon. My sample is from barrel 81
and weighs 57% ABV (114°). You’ll pay $59.99 for a 750ml package.
Appearance: I drank
this neat from my Glencairn glass; as I observed its caramel appearance, I took
notice of its thin rim and crooked, meandering tears.
Nose: A
bouquet of field corn, molasses, oak, and leather touched my nostrils. My mouth
encountered leather when I pulled the air through my lips.
Palate: The
front provided tastes of toasted oak, corn, and dark chocolate introduced my
palate to an oily mouthfeel. Caramel and cherries could be found at the
midpoint, trailed by leather and tobacco on the back.
Finish: Old
leather, toasted oak, dark chocolate, and tobacco remained for a medium
duration.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust:
Interestingly, this cask strength Bourbon was less bold than its Small Batch
counterpart. It drank a few points below its stated proof. And while it was
more flavorful, it still lacked any real depth. Is this a $60.00 whiskey?
Probably, yes. But I also can’t picture myself gravitating to it, given the
many other similarly priced options. As such, it, too, takes my Bar
rating.
Final Thoughts: Trying
this at various proofs means that’s not what caused the shallowness of flavors.
The mashbill shouldn’t lead to that, although I admit I’ve never had whiskey
made from Arkansas-grown grains before.
The good news is that if
you head to the distillery on the 15th, you can likely taste these
for yourself. If I were to purchase only one, it would be the Single Barrel
Cask Strength. Cheers!
My Simple, Easy-to-Understand
Rating System
- Bottle = Buy It
- Bar = Try It
- Bust = Leave It
Whiskeyfellow encourages
you to enjoy your whiskey as you see fit but begs you do so responsibly.
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