These
days, brands develop a schtick as they enter the Wonderful World of
Whiskey. The goal is to make enough noise and garner the attention of whiskey
drinkers in an already very crowded marketplace.
On
August 30, 2018, Dave
Pickerell was on tour in Wisconsin, discussing
his newest project, BLACKENED. I was there to meet with him. Little did I know
that just two short months later, Dave would pass away. But we had a chance to
chat about BLACKENED and whiskey stuff in general. He was a fountain of
information and one of the friendliest guys I’ve met.
BLACKENED is unlike any project Dave spearheaded before. Firstly, it was a collaboration of spirits and music, namely, the infamous band Metallica. Secondly, Dave blended straight Bourbon and American Rye whiskeys and finished the concoction in black Brandy barrels. The schtick part involved blasting heavy metal music at the barrels while they aged. Whose music? If you didn’t guess Metallica, you’re wrong.
BLACKENED’s
theory is that the sound vibrations cause more significant interaction with the
wood, thus imparting additional flavor to the whiskey inside. I’m not a
scientist, nor do I play one on television. Yet, in my mind, it makes sense:
Toss a pebble in a still pool of water; you can easily see the water ripple and
interact with its boundary. BLACKENED has dubbed this sonic-enhancement process
BLACK NOISETM.
With
Dave’s passing, the torch was passed to Rob Dietrich, who became
BLACKENDED’s Master Distiller and Blender.
Today
I’m exploring two of BLACKENED’s expressions: the flagship and a cask strength
called Volume 01. The flagship I picked up at a random liquor store
(I say random because I don’t recall where I purchased it). Volume 01
was generously provided to me by its producer, Sweet Amber Distilling Co., in
exchange for a no-strings-attached, honest review. I’ve opted to perform a
side-by-side #DrinkCurious adventure and report their similarities and
differences. For the record, I’ve poured both into Glencairn glasses and served
them neat.
We’ll
try the flagship whiskey first. It carries no age statement, no disclosure of a
mashbill, and a 750ml package is sold at 45% ABV (90°) for around $49.00. I’ve
seen it readily available at various liquor stores around the country.
Appearance: In my glass, the flagship expression was a brilliant golden liquid. The slim rim formed sticky droplets that soon became wide tears.
Nose: The first smell was powdered cinnamon, slowly followed by apples, honey, and mint. When I drew the air through my lips, I encountered stewed peaches.
Palate: The mouthfeel
was thin, and I first tasted vanilla, oak, and allspice. At the midpoint, I
found cinnamon, maple syrup, and plums. The back featured flavors of rye spice,
black pepper, and clove.
Finish: Long
and peppery with oak tannins, the finish included flavors of cinnamon and rye
spice. It was a building sensation, with a muted start that warmed almost
exponentially. It didn’t get hot or present any burn. Instead, it just made
itself known.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust:
BLACKENED’s flagship drinks like whiskey that is geared toward non-whiskey
drinkers. On the surface, I know that isn’t very clear. However, it takes qualities
that newcomers may find offputting and makes them more palatable. A 90° whiskey
could be too “hot” for some. BLACKENED cools that with sweeter flavors. The
same could be said of the wood notes.
Whiskey enthusiasts can
partake in this pour and get enough out of it to keep things interesting.
Metallica fans, naturally drawn to anything the band does, may find this a pleasant
introduction to whiskey. It is priced right, and I believe it deserves a Bottle
rating.
Now
it is time for the cask strength expression. A 750ml sells for about $70.00. Volume
01 weighs a hefty 61.4% ABV (122.8°). It has been released to both USA and
Canadian retailers.
Appearance: The liquid inside my glass was a bronzish color. A medium rim released quick, thicker tears.
Nose: A heavy
aroma of maple syrup and molasses permeated my nostrils. Vanilla, Fig Newtons, and
cinnamon were next. Inside my mouth, the air consisted of mocha.
Palate: While
the flagship had a thin texture, the cask strength was far heavier and not just
in warmth. It carried a creamy weightiness. I tasted oak, cinnamon, and walnuts.
Midway through, I found oatmeal cookies, caramel, and cherries. The back
suggested rye spice, black pepper, and a kiss of vanilla.
Finish:
Strangely, I didn’t find the finish to be longer or more potent than the
flagship expression. So much for preconceived notions! It was long-lasting but more
level as well. Oak, cinnamon powder, oatmeal, and molasses remained.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: Whereas
the flagship would appeal to whiskey-curious folks, the cask strength version
is more of an aficionado's playground. The flavors were bolder yet lacked the
punch many 120°+ whiskeys might provide. It was a pleasant sipping experience
on a cold, rainy day. There’s nothing extraordinary about the price, and this
pour has quite a bit of value. Would I spend $70.00 on it? Yes. And because of
that, my Bottle rating is more than fair. Cheers!
My Simple, Easy-to-Understand
Rating System
- Bottle = Buy It
- Bar = Try It
- Bust = Leave It
Whiskeyfellow encourages
you to enjoy your whiskey as you see fit but begs you do so responsibly.
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