Old Pulteney Pineau des Charentes Single Malt Scotch Review & Tasting Notes

 

Way back in 1807, a Scottish engineer by the name of Thomas Telford designed a lade (basically a passage of water similar to a ditch) to transport water from Loch Hempriggs to the Pulteneytown area of Wick. James Henderson built a distillery next to the lade about twenty years later. He called it Old Pulteney in memory of Sir William Pulteney, who had passed away just before the lade was constructed.

 

Old Pulteney is one of the two northernmost distilleries in the Scottish Highlands. It shares that title with Wolfburn Distillery. Due to its extreme remoteness, the only way to access Old Pulteney was via boat. And, because Henderson needed workers to help run the distillery, he hired the only available people: herring fishermen.  

 

Then, the Temperance Act of 1914 was passed, and the local towns voted to pass prohibition, which shuttered the pubs. Demand collapsed between that and American Prohibition, leading to Old Pulteney’s closure in 1930. In 1947, the area voted to “undry” itself, rescinding the ban, and the distillery roared back to life in 1951 under its new owner, Robert “Bertie” Cumming. The distillery was purchased by J&G Stoddard, Ltd., and, in 1958, engaged in a mass renovation that decommissioned the malting floors. Old Pulteney changed hands several times since and is currently owned by Inver House Distillers, who acquired it in 1995.

 

What Old Pulteney produces is known as The Maritime Malt because of how the terroir affects the aging whisky. And coming August is its Old Pulteney Pineau des Charentes single malt Scotch. 

 

What the heck is Pineau des Charentes? It comes from the Cognac region of France, but it isn’t Cognac per se. Cognac is a component of this wine liqueur.

 

French law requires using freshly-harvested grape must (freshly crushed grape, seed, skins, and stems). The varietals used are Ugni Blanc, Colombard and Folle Blanche, Jurancon Blanc, and Montils. While the must can be partially fermented, its sugar content must be at least 170 grams per liter before adding barrel-aged Cognac, which is at least 60% ABV (120°). Any fermentation the must may have experienced is halted by the Cognac’s alcohol, and the blend winds up between 16% and 22% ABV.

 

The wine then goes into oak and legally must remain at the winery for at least eight months. But, the wine must age in the barrel for at least five years for an “old” designation and a decade for a “very old” one.

 

All of that background brings us to today’s whisky. It is the first entry into Pulteney’s limited-edition Coastal Series, meant to highlight seaside locations worldwide. Each year, Pulteney will release a new expression.

 

Made from 100% malted barley, the whisky is aged in the Old Pulteney tradition of using air-dried ex-Bourbon casks. Once Distillery Manager Malcolm Waring determines the whisky is sufficiently matured, he transfers them to the Pineau des Charentes casks for extra aging. Bottled at 46% ABV (92°), a 750ml package has a suggested price of $79.99.

 

Now that you know everything you’d ever want to know about how we got to this point, it is time to #DrinkCurious. But, before I do, I must thank Old Pulteney for providing me with a sample in exchange for my no-strings-attached, honest review.

 

Appearance: I sipped this Scotch neat from my Glencairn glass. The bright, coppery amber formed a thin rim with tiny droplets that became wide tears.

 

Nose: I could smell the aroma from across the room. It consisted of brine, honey, white grapes, peaches, and candied orange slices. When I drew the air through my lips, it was as if vanilla saltwater taffy rolled over my tongue.

 

Palate: Before I even ascertained the mouthfeel, this whisky’s brininess burst through and announced itself like Lenny and Squiggy from Laverne & Shirley. Once I got past the palate shock, I could appreciate its creamy texture. On the front, I tasted hazelnuts, honey-roasted almonds, and vanilla. The middle transformed into caramel, golden raisins, and nutmeg. The back became a flavorful explosion of clove, oak, and brine.

 

Finish: The long, lingering finish concentrated on clove, black pepper, oak, nutmeg, golden raisin, and brine. It was warming, which reminded me of sipping Cognac, which I suppose should have been expected.

 

Bottle, Bar, or Bust: I know I’ve mentioned brine a lot in this review, and that’s not meant to connote this is a salt bomb. It isn’t. It is a complementary sensation due to the distillery’s local environment.

 

I was shocked at just how potent this 46% ABV Scotch turned out. Toward the end of my sipping adventure, my head got swimmy, and I wasn’t drinking on an empty stomach.

 

I approached it again after my head cleared, and this time, for fun, I used an eyedropper to add two drops of distilled water. Thick, heavy caramel dominated everything else on the nose. It also became fruitier, this time adding apples and pears. The texture thinned considerably, and the salty quality on the palate seemed subdued. I could still sense the spiciness from the finish, but I felt I ruined what made this Old Pulteney special.

 

Sipped neat, Old Pulteney Pineau des Charentes is a delightfully unique, flavorful Scotch. At its SRP, it seems like a steal. This is one of the better, more affordable Scotches I’ve had in 2023; I hope it is easy to acquire a Bottle. Cheers! 

 

My Simple, Easy-to-Understand Rating System

• Bottle = Buy It
• Bar = Try It
• Bust = Leave It

 

Whiskeyfellow encourages you to enjoy your whiskey as you see fit but begs you do so responsibly.