Stitzel-Weller is akin to the Holy Grail for some whiskey
drinkers. What’s that? You’ve not heard of it? No worries; I can tell you all
you need to know.
Our
story began in the pre-Prohibition era when a liquor distributor, W.L. Weller
& Sons, officially joined forces with the A. Ph. Stitzel Distillery.
They formed the Stitzel-Weller
Distilling Company in 1935. As you probably know, Prohibition
had just ended by then, and distilleries were slowly returning to life.
Except
during Prohibition, Weller and Stitzel had already been working together; they possessed
a medicinal license to sell spirits and were one of the few distributors left.
As such, their task was slightly less daunting.
The
Stitzel Weller Distillery, popularly known as Old Fitzgerald Distillery,
was built by Julian “Pappy”
Van Winkle, Sr., Arthur Phillip Stitzel,
and Alex T. Farnsley. Six years into the operation, Farnsley died. Six
years beyond that, Stitzel passed away, leaving Van Winkle to run things.
Julian
Van Winkle, Jr. took the helm when his father perished
in 1965. Then, in 1972, Van Winkle sold the Stitzel-Weller Distillery to Norton-Simon.
Part of the deal included Julian’s continued access to the very old stocks in
inventory and to keep the Van Winkle brand alive. Norton-Simon legally changed
the distillery’s name to its popular one.
Due
to mergers and acquisitions, the distillery changed hands (Somerset Imports, Distillers
Corporation Ltd, Guinness PLC, and United Distillers). As what often happens, house brands were sold
off, notably to Heaven
Hill and Buffalo Trace. The distillery ceased
distilling operations in 1992, although the rickhouses still held liquid gold. While
everything was on hiatus, United Distillers changed the name back to
Stitzel-Weller Distillery. In 1997, United Distillers became Diageo.
The distillery resumed operations in 2014.
Today,
I’m exploring Blade and
Bow 22-Year-Old Kentucky Straight Bourbon.
It was aged and bottled at the Stitzel-Weller Distillery. Its name is a tribute
to the five brass keys left hanging on the distillery’s doors before it
reopened. Blade and Bow has a Kentucky Straight Bourbon that utilizes a solera
method to incorporate tanked Stitzel-Weller whiskey with what was distilled more
recently from multiple sources. The 22-year expression is not procured in the
same manner.
Considering
that any remaining unblended stocks of Stitzel-Weller are nearly depleted and
that the distillery wasn’t operational 22 years ago, a reasonable question is, Is
this Stitzel-Weller distillate? I asked
my contact if this was indeed Stitzel-Weller’s Bourbon or if it was Stitzel-Weller-like.
The answer I received was:
Blade and Bow 22-Year-Old Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey is a limited and rare release whiskey that pays homage to the artful passion and renowned craftsmanship of the legendary Stitzel-Weller Distillery. A small amount of this whiskey is released each year from Stitzel-Weller, the historic distillery that now serves as the home to a number of high-quality whiskeys.
Who
is responsible for the majority of this 22-year-old Bourbon? Your guess is as
good as anyone’s; I won’t even hazard one. Diageo is keeping that card close to
its vest.
This
annual release from Blade and Bow coincides with Bourbon Heritage Month. To
obtain a bottle, you’ll need about $550.00 and be at either one of the few
select retailers, the Stitzel-Weller Distillery or Garden & Gun Club
at the distillery in Louisville. It is packaged at 46% ABV (92°), and I’m stunned
they’re selling it in 750ml bottles.
Diageo
was kind enough to send me a sample of Blade and Bow 22 in exchange for my
no-strings-attached, honest review. In full disclosure, I’m excited as hell to
try this. I’ll try not to let it impact my review.
I
will also state that my Bottle, Bar, or Bust rating will not include the value
statement. I’m assuming by the time you read this and find a bottle, it is
priced way beyond the $550.00 mark. While I don’t subscribe to or approve of
the secondary market, my guess is that’s where most folks will find it.
Let’s
#DrinkCurious and see how well the hype matches my palate.
Appearance: I
sipped this Bourbon neat from my Glencairn glass. As you’d likely imagine, the
whiskey was a deep caramel color. The medium-weighted rim discharged thick,
fast tears.
Nose: While many whiskeys release an aroma while breathing
in my glass, this was not the case with Blade and Bow 22. But, when I brought
the glass to just under my nostrils, I smelled apricots, figs, cherries, and crème
brulee. I encountered thick, heavy caramel when I parted my lips and drew the
vapor inside.
Palate: The
texture was thin and slick. At first, I tasted nutmeg, toasted oak, and black cherries.
As it crossed the middle of my palate, I found crème brulee, old leather, and orange
peel. The back featured brown sugar, rye spice, and white pepper.
Finish: The white
pepper dies out quickly and clears the way for crème brulee, leather, tobacco,
and cherries. The duration is medium with a slow fall-off of flavors, with the
tobacco clinging at the end.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: I
understand that with such limited quantities of any 22-year Bourbon, it
must be proofed down to make it last. I would have loved to taste this at
perhaps eight proof points higher. It could have used some more oomph. This
is a common complaint I have with several ancient, proofed-down Bourbons (Elijah
Craig 18 immediately comes to mind). I wanted more oak.
Despite my nitpicking,
Blade and Bow 22 is a tasty pour. It is one of those once-in-a-blue-moon
whiskeys you must experience, given the opportunity. Would I drink this again?
Yes. Am I sad that I only have about 20ml of it left? Also yes. And that means
Blade and Bow 22 earns a Bottle rating. Cheers!
My Simple, Easy-to-Understand
Rating System
- Bottle = Buy It
- Bar = Try It
- Bust = Leave It
Whiskeyfellow encourages
you to enjoy your whiskey as you see fit but begs you to do so responsibly.
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