Founded in 2012 by Quentin
Witherspoon, Ryan DeHart, Natasha DeHart, and Laurent
Spamer, the Witherspoon Distillery opened in a Dallas, Texas, warehouse
making rum. In only a year, a grain-to-glass malt whiskey project by intern Christy
Cockre was a winner. It shifted the distillery’s focus, and Witherspoon
Distillery quickly outgrew its home.
In 2015, the Witherspoon
Distillery took on Sazerac as a minority-stake partner and moved
operations to a former Piggly Wiggly in Lewisville, and in 2016, it brought in
Lead Distiller Jacob Peraza. While the demand and business continued to
grow, in 2018, Quentin exited the partnership. Simultaneously, the distillery
added a “submarine still” that was creating newmake in 2019. And, despite the
larger space, Witherspoon Distillery ran out of storage space. It took on an
off-site aging warehouse. The remaining partners also changed the name from
Witherspoon Distillery to BENDT Distilling.
When COVID hit, the
distillery produced hand sanitizer like many others nationwide. In 2021, as
things began to normalize, BENDT took on Karson Kasberg as an additional
distiller.
I’m deep-diving into
BENDT’s two Bottled-in-Bond whiskeys: a Bourbon and a Rye. Wait… what’s Bottled-in-Bond
mean?
Bottled-in-Bond is one of
those awesome consumer protection laws. Back in the times of yore, rectifiers
and retailers were looking for ways to extend their whiskey supplies. They’d
slowly add anything they could think of, including turpentine, tobacco spit,
and other disgusting things.
The Bottled-in-Bond Act
of 1897 was enacted to change that. It had strict rules that could not be
deviated from. To start, it must be a wholly-produced product of the United
States. Next, it must be distilled in a single distilling season (January to
June or July to December) at a single distillery by a single distiller. Third,
it must age for at least four years in wood in a government-bonded warehouse. Finally,
it must be diluted only with pure water and must be bottled at 50% ABV (100°).
Does Bottled-in-Bond matter
today? Yes. Absolutely. Most definitively. In American whiskeys it is my
favorite niche category. There’s a sweet spot with Bottled-in-Bond offerings
that cause me to seek them out. If I have the option of the same brand of Bourbon,
with one bonded and the other not, I’ll go with the bonded one every time.
Beyond the age statement and proof, I believe the single distilling season
component heavily influences the finished product.
Before I get to my tasting
notes, I must pause and thank BENDT Distilling for providing me with these
samples in exchange for my no-strings-attached, honest reviews. Let’s #DrinkCurious.
UNBendt Bottled-in-Bond
Bourbon
Up first is the Bottled-in-Bond
Bourbon. It is distilled from a mash of Denton County Yellow Dent corn, Texas
Elbon rye, and 2-row malted barley. The Bourbon rested at least five years in
new, #3 charred oak barrels, and you can expect to pay $59.99 for a 50% ABV
(100°) package.
Appearance: I drank
this Bourbon neat from my Glencairn glass. The deep, rich, orange amber formed
a massive rim. Thick, widely spaced tears rolled down the wall.
Nose: The
aroma of corn was unmistakable. It was joined by toasted oak, berries, brown
sugar, and vanilla. Drawing the air into my mouth revealed corn and brown
sugar.
Palate: As the
liquid slid across my tongue, I found it medium-bodied and airy. I tasted corn,
a massive amount of shredded tobacco, and coffee on the front of my palate.
Midway through, there were vanilla, rye spice, and berries. The back offered
black pepper, barrel char, and bold cinnamon.
Finish: UNBENDT’s
Bourbon had an incredibly long, lingering finish highlighting the rye and
cinnamon spices. Surprisingly, that tobacco punch from the front was nowhere to
be found, whereas the corn and coffee remained.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: The
initial sip was slightly off-putting. However, as I delved deeper, this Bourbon
grew on me. The heavy tobacco note may have distracted me from identifying
other flavors past the corn. Once I got past the palate shock, that was no
longer an issue.
While I enjoyed this
sipping experience, I can see where some folks might get tied up after the
first taste. My advice would be, like I say about everything, don’t give up after
the first sniff or sip. You’ll do yourself a disservice. I believe this is
worthy of a Bottle rating, and if you give it a chance, I’m positive you
will, too.
◊◊◊◊◊
UNBendt
Bottled-in-Bond Rye
Next
is the Bottled-in-Bond Rye. Its mashbill is Elbon rye, Triticale hybrid grain,
Marris Otter malted barley, and Naked Streaker oats. Aged for at least 5.5
years in 53-gallon #3-chared new oak barrels, a 50% ABV (100°) 750ml bottle
costs about $59.99.
Appearance: I
sipped this Rye whiskey neat from my Glencairn glass. The liquid inside looked
like dark caramel. It formed a medium rim that released thick, syrupy tears.
Nose: The
aroma started with rye spice and mint. Oatmeal cookies, plums, and cherries followed.
As I drew the vapor through my lips, I found doughy rye bread.
Palate: The
mouthfeel was incredibly thick and creamy. That was unexpected but definitely
not unwelcomed, likely coming from the triticale. I was so struck that I
completely ignored the flavors blossoming in my mouth, so I had to take another
gander.
The front of my palate
featured plums, cherries, and caramel. I tasted rye bread and cinnamon spice in
the middle, while the back offered clove, black pepper, and charred oak.
Finish: Long
and silky, the finish consisted of rye bread, black pepper, plum, oatmeal, a
touch of caramel, and cinnamon spice.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: UNBendt
Bottled-in-Bond Rye is, simply put, lovely. The mouthfeel was enchanting and
mesmerizing. Any whiskey that makes me forget the next step is attractive. I
loved the flavors, and I enjoyed the finish. The price is very reasonable.
UNBENDT Bottled-in-Bond Rye hits all the checkmarks for a Bottle
rating.
Final Thoughts: Texas
whiskeys are polarizing. You either love them or you’re turned off. There’s no
“that’s not bad” or “it's okay.” I’ve had both varieties and always approach
the category not knowing what to expect.
If I had to choose between the two, the Rye was outstanding. Cheers!
My Simple, Easy-to-Understand
Rating System
- Bottle = Buy It
- Bar = Try It
- Bust = Leave It
Whiskeyfellow encourages
you to enjoy your whiskey as you see fit but begs you to do so responsibly.
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