If
you’ve read my reviews over the last, say, three years, you know that I’m a
fanboy of the American Single Malt category. That’s not a poke at Bourbons or
American Ryes; the category is unique and almost magical, partly because the
legalities of what makes an American Single Malt haven’t been finalized. Distillers
can tinker around while waiting for the TTB to approve the proposed rules.
Those
rules are as follows:
- It must be made from 100% malted barley;
- It must be entirely a product of one distillery;
- It must be mashed, distilled, and aged entirely in the United States;
- It must be aged in oak casks of 700 liters or less;
- It must be distilled at 80% ABV (160°) or less; and
- It must be packaged at 40% ABV (80°) or more.
I’ve
been drinking American Single Malts longer than the last three years, but in my
opinion, that’s when we started seeing (and tasting) what I’ll simply call
“good stuff.” One of the distilleries that has consistently impressed me with
“good stuff” is Copperworks
Distilling Co., out of Seattle.
Today,
I’m exploring its Barleywine
Cask American Single Malt Whiskey.
This was a collaboration between Copperworks and Urban Family Brewing Co.,
also located in Seattle.
The
first question you’re probably asking yourself is, What’s barleywine? It
is a robust English ale that’s been around for centuries. It is known for being
very malty and has elevated alcohol content (about 8-13% ABV and higher).
The
Barleywine Cask began its life using the distillery’s five-malt recipe in Cask
No. 023-2, a refill cask that previously held another Copperworks American
Single Malt. It spent seven years maturing in the cask. In the meantime, Urban
Family had aged a 13.5% ABV barleywine in a former Copperworks barrel for seven
months. That barrel was returned to Copperworks when Urban Family was done with
it. Copperworks, in turn, transferred the contents of Cask No. 023-2 into Urban
Family’s barrel and allowed it to finish for 25 days.
The
yield was only 252 - 750ml bottles packaged at 50% ABV (100°). They can be
purchased for $89.99 from the distillery or its website.
But,
should you? We’ll answer that after I #DrinkCurious. First, I must thank
Copperworks for providing me with a sample of this whiskey in exchange for my
no-strings-attached, honest review.
Appearance: I
poured this whiskey into my Glencairn glass and sipped it neat. It had a brassy
color and created a medium rim that dropped slow straight tears.
Nose: Its
aroma was malty; I smelled nutmeg, eucalyptus, orange zest, and grapefruit. Drawing
it into my mouth offered little beyond the malted barley.
Palate: Barleywine’s
texture was thin and weightless. There was palate shock of tangerine. The second
sip allowed me to encounter pineapples, tangerines, and nutmeg. I could swear I
tasted Whoppers candy at the middle, and flavors of chili peppers, cinnamon,
and oak were on the back.
Finish: This
single malt possessed an Energizer Bunny finish. It wouldn’t give up. Ancho
peppers, juniper, oak, and tangerines remained.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: I’m not
a beer drinker (or ale or barleywine or anything else from that beverage
family). When I run into those barrel finishes, it often trips me up, and
Barleywine Finish was no exception to the rule. The finishing barrel heavily
influenced this whiskey, which is expected (otherwise, what’s the point?). This
is one of the few Copperworks whiskeys I do not love (I don’t dislike it; I
just don’t love it), and I’m giving this one a Bar rating. Cheers!
My Simple, Easy-to-Understand
Rating System
- Bottle = Buy It
- Bar = Try It
- Bust = Leave It
Whiskeyfellow encourages
you to enjoy your whiskey as you see fit but begs you to do so responsibly.
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