In
the 1880s, Alfred Barnard, a British author who visited most of the existing
distilleries around the United Kingdom and Ireland, suggested that Dublin’s Thomas Street Distillery was likely the largest in the world. As all good
things eventually end, the distillery was mothballed in 1926.
However,
the Thomas Street Distillery’s story began in 1757 when Peter Roe bought
a distillery along Thomas Street. Nine years later, ownership transferred to Richard Roe,
who tried to expand the tiny distillery as much as the law would allow (which
wasn’t much). Then, in 1784, Nicolas
Roe opened a much larger distillery in nearby
Pimlico. In 1832, both distilleries were acquired by George Roe,
who, under friendlier laws, expanded them.
His
nephews, George and Henry, assumed control in 1862 and continued to expand
production. They became very wealthy, and Henry donated a quarter-million
pounds to help restore the Christ Church Cathedral, which had stood since the
11th century. Queen
Victoria knighted him for his efforts!
During
the late 1800s, Irish whiskey was hemorrhaging market share to the Scots,
resulting in the closures of several distilleries. In 1891, to survive, Thomas
Street Distillery merged with Jones
Road Distillery and Marrowbone Lane Distillery
and remained profitable. That was until the bottom fell out of the Irish
whiskey market.
Rather
than one significant catalyst, there were several that hit simultaneously. The first
nails in the coffin were Irish independence and the Anglo-Irish trade wars,
compounded with rampant mismanagement and lousy speculation. Then came Prohibition.
While this was an American issue, its effects rippled across the ocean because of
how large the United States market was for Ireland. The straw that broke the camel’s
back was World War II when over 150 Irish distilleries went out of business. In
the 1960s, only five remained, and by 1972, only two were left in all of
Ireland!
In
the late 1980s, things began to change. John Teeling purchased the Cooley Distillery from the Irish government, changing it from a
chemical distillery to one for whiskey. In 1988, Pernod Ricard purchased Irish Distillers Limited (the owner of the final two distilleries). In 2007,
the Kilbeggen Distillery, established in 1757, was resurrected and renovated
by Diageo, bringing the total number of working distilleries to
four. And by 2014, there were eight; in 2016, there were 17!
Then,
in 2019, Diageo brought the Roe &
Co. brand back from the ashes, making it
the 33rd Irish distillery either in production or under
construction. Its master blender, Caroline
Martin, has been involved in the industry for
over 30 years. Roe & Co. offers two expressions: a Single Malt Solera and a Blended Irish
Whiskey.
Roe
& Co. provided me with a sample of the latter in exchange for my
no-strings-attached, honest review. It is made from both malt and grain
whiskeys and aged in Bourbon casks. It is non-chill filtered, packaged at 45%
ABV (90°), and a 750ml sells for about $30.00.
I
thank Roe & Co. for this opportunity to #DrinkCurious. Let’s get to it!
Appearance: I used
a Glencairn glass to sip this Irish whiskey neat. It was a genuine orange amber;
it created a medium rim and wide, syrupy tears.
Nose: The
aroma included caramel, nutmeg, orange zest, vanilla, and sugar cookies. Inhaling
the vapor filled my mouth with creamy caramel.
Palate: The
buttery texture introduced the front of my palate to creamy vanilla, caramel,
and brown sugar. Cinnamon, apples, and nutmeg followed. The back tasted of oak,
allspice, and
Finish: The finish
featured bold oak, cinnamon, butterscotch, apples, and allspice. It was long,
lumbering, like a freight train, and lasted several minutes until the allspice
dropped off.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: One of
the things I appreciate about “modern” Irish whiskey is that its flavors are
allowed to develop with depth. Roe & Co. at 90°, it is easy enough to drink
without tasting watered down. The more I sipped, the more I enjoyed what was in
my glass. At $30.00, it powers above similarly-priced Irish whiskeys, often proofed
ten points fewer. I believe Roe & Co. Blended Irish Whiskey is worth having
in my whiskey library. You’ll want a Bottle of your own. Cheers!
My Simple, Easy-to-Understand
Rating System
- Bottle = Buy It
- Bar = Try It
- Bust = Leave It
Whiskeyfellow encourages
you to enjoy your whiskey as you see fit but begs you to do so responsibly.
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