During
Prohibition, some distillers got very creative at eluding the revenuers and
other authorities. Unless you were one of the very select few who were licensed
to distill medicinal whiskey, getting caught would have meant an
all-expense-paid vacation in an 8x10 prison cell.
One
of the easiest ways to get caught was the observation of Baudoinia
compniacensis, or black mold, growing on the sides of buildings. It was a telltale
sign that there was a still inside. One distiller had the ingenious idea to paint
his barn black. Others followed suit. Then, to show solidarity, the area farmers
painted theirs black, too. Because the black mold was no longer visible, and
every barn in the area was black, the illicit distillers had what was referred
to as a hidden barn.
In
a nod to that creativity, Hidden
Barn Whiskey was founded in 2022 by Nate Winegar,
who serves as its brand ambassador; Matt
Dankher, who heads up finance and operations; Royce Neeley,
its master distiller; and Jackie Zykan, its master blender. The brand was since acquired
by Neeley Family Distillery in Sparta, Kentucky.
Jackie
comes with plenty of experience. She was the master taster at Brown-Forman,
who created the Old
Forester 117 and 150 series. Royce has been the master
distiller at Neeley Family Distillery for nine years and is an 11th-generation
distiller. Nate is the founder of the well-known 5280 Whiskey Society and a
huge (figuratively and literally) people-person.
“We’re excited to continue partnering with Jackie on Hidden Barn, and to release what is ironically, her seventh blend of Hidden Barn Bourbon. Jackie has access to all my inventory for her blending. Basically, I’ve given her the keys to the warehouse, and we can expect to see more one-of-a-kind releases in the future now that she’s got thousands of barrels to play with.” – Royce Neeley, Master Distiller and CEO
Today,
I’ll dive deep into Hidden Barn’s newest release: Seven-Year-Old Bourbon.
This whiskey was double-pot distilled by Neeley Family Distillery from a sweet mash
of 70% corn, 20% rye, and 10% malted barley. It includes the use of open
fermentation tanks and wild-crafted Appalachian yeast.
The
batch is blended from five barrels aged five years in 24-month open-air
seasoned barrels before spending another two years in new, charred French oak
casks. It is non-chill filtered and packaged at 54.7% ABV (109.4°). A 750ml
carries a suggested $79.99 price tag. It is available online and at retail in
Kentucky, Indiana, New York, California, Georgia, Colorado, and New Mexico.
Before
I start this #DrinkCurious adventure, I must thank Neeley Family Distillery for
providing me with a sample of this Bourbon in exchange for my
no-strings-attached, honest review.
Appearance: I
poured this Bourbon into my Glencairn glass and sipped it neat. It possessed an
inviting, deep, dark, burnt umber color. A thin rim shed fast, thick tears.
Nose: An
aroma of chocolate, wild berries, caramel, mint, and plums escaped the glass. I
drew the air through my lips and tasted what could have been an almost meaty
black raisin jam.
Palate: Full-bodied
and viscous, the warm, spicy mouthfeel woke my tastebuds. The front of my
palate encountered black raisins, figs, and toffee. Flavors of nutmeg, tobacco,
and leather followed at the mid-point. The back consisted of charred oak, black
pepper, and bananas.
Finish: Long
and lingering, it started slow and slowly ramped to a warm, drying sensation,
with lots of old leather combined with black pepper, bananas, caramel, figs,
and nutmeg. I clocked its duration at 2:21, making it very long.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: This
Seven-Year-Old Bourbon is my first foray into anything from Neeley Family
Distillery. Let’s just say this: If this represents what the distillery offers,
I’m intrigued. I can tell you Jackie did one hell of a job blending. The fruits,
the spices, the mouthfeel, the finish… it is such a complex, enjoyable whiskey
that seduces you into taking yet another sip.
If it isn’t already evident,
Hidden Barn’s Seven-Year-Old Bourbon is a winner and earns every bit of my Bottle
rating. Cheers!
My Simple, Easy-to-Understand
Rating System
- Bottle = Buy It
- Bar = Try It
- Bust = Leave It
Whiskeyfellow encourages
you to enjoy your whiskey as you see fit but begs you to do so responsibly.
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