Highland Park Magnus Single Malt Scotch Whisky Review

 


There are several storied, well-loved Scotch distilleries out there, and one of those is Highland Park, a distillery in Kirkwall, the largest town in Orkney. Orkney is off on its own, way up north, near the Arctic Circle, and consists of 70 islands, 20 of which are inhabited. The islands have been part of human history going back about 8500 years.

 

Highland Park suggests they are located outside Scotland’s five whisky regions; however, legally, they are in the Highland region. There is a mystery behind the foundations of this distillery. Some claim it was founded in 1798 by Magnus Eunson, a priest who moonlighted as a whisky smuggler. Others claim it was a farmer named David Robertson during the same year. Regardless, Robertson’s name is on the records as being the founder.

 

The obfuscation continues with the distillery’s original name. Some have called it Kirkwall. Others refer to it as Rosebank. Still, others maintain it has always been Highland Park.

 

In 1816, an excise officer, John Robertson, took the distillery's helm. Ten years later, Robert Borwick obtained one of the first legal licenses to distill whisky, and with that, he took control. Then, in 1840, his son, George, was named the owner. He ran things until 1869, when his brother, James, took possession and promptly attempted to sell the distillery.  

 

That resulted in two experienced folks, William Stuart (owner of Miltonduff) and James Grant of The Glenlivet, being granted a license in 1870 and subsequently taking ownership of Highland Park. In 1895, Grant assumed complete control of the distillery. Then, in 1937, the distillery was sold to Highland Distillers. Finally, in 1999, The Edrington Group absorbed Highland Distillers and remains the distillery’s owners today.

 

Fun Fact: The average temperature in Orkney is about 46°F, with an average summer temperature of only 54°F, meaning there isn't much opportunity for the whisky to pull flavors from a barrel.

 

Today, I explore Magnus, a single malt whisky named for the distillery’s founder. Like any single malt, it is distilled from 100% malted barley and aged in former Bourbon barrels and sherry-seasoned American oak casks but carries no age statement. Magnus is chill-filtered and packaged at 40% ABV (80°) and has a suggested retail price of $45.00 for 750ml. It is only distributed in the United States and appears to have been discontinued. However, stores still had this on their shelves at the time of this writing.

 

I acquired a 50ml sampler from a random store in my travels. Let’s #DrinkCurious.

 

Appearance: I poured this into my Glencairn glass to sip neat. It possessed the color of dried straw. A thick rim yielded massive, crazed tears when I gave the glass a gentle swirl.

 

Nose: I smelled grass, peaches, lemon oil, flowers, and honey. When I drew the air through my lips, it seemed very grassy.

 

Palate: Magnus’s mouthfeel was thick and creamy. There was a little burn on my tongue, which surprised me. I tasted lemon oil, orange peel, and grass at the front. Midway through, it became slightly bitter with earthy peat and mushrooms. The back offered oak tannins, white pepper, and chocolate.

 

Finish: What remained included oak tannins, chocolate, earthy peat, white pepper, and orange peel. I clocked the duration at 1:26, placing it in the medium-long venue.

 

Bottle, Bar, or Bust: I’ve had better Scotches. I’ve had better Highland Scotches. For that matter, I’ve had better Highland Park Scotches. Magnus isn’t a bad whisky; it is just mediocre. The $40-$50 range for decent Scotch whisky is broad, and nothing would make Magnus worth picking up over its competitors. If you’re a Highland Park fan, then, of course, this is a must-buy. But, for the rest of us, or at least me, it is one you’ll want to try at a Bar first. Cheers!

 

My Simple, Easy-to-Understand Rating System

  • Bottle = Buy It
  • Bar = Try It
  • Bust = Leave It

 

Whiskeyfellow encourages you to enjoy your whiskey as you see fit but begs you to do so responsibly.

 


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