Usually,
I start my reviews with historical or categorical context as it pertains to the
whiskey I explore. Today, we’ll do things differently because I’m all about
transparency, and I believe there are important points to ponder.
On
Friday, September 13, 2024, I had an enlightening conversation with Jamie Burns,
the Lead Distiller of The Family
Jones Denver operation. We talked about various
things, including terroir, the importance of sourcing suitable grains from the right
places, conservation and sustainability, and, of course, the whiskeys.
I
want to tell you a bit about Jamie. He’s a graduate of Michigan State University where he earned his degree in Biosystems
Engineering with a concentration on Fermented Beverage Science and Technology.
He earned his Master’s in Brewing and Distilling from Scotland’s Herriot Watt University. He was a production supervisor at Anheuser-Busch
and the Head Distiller at Cleveland
Whiskey.
Beyond
that, this man earned my respect before I tasted his whiskey. And, to be clear,
as I’m writing this introduction, I’ve still not tasted it.
The
Family Jones sent me four samples of its products to review: a Bourbon, a Rye,
a Smoked Old Fashioned, and a Gin. If you’ve followed my whiskey adventures for
over a few months, you know I strongly dislike gin. I didn’t ask for the gin. In
my conversation with Jamie, I made it abundantly clear that I was not a gin
drinker, a gin liker, or a gin tolerator. I told him that of anything gin-like,
I only enjoyed Genever from de
Borgen.
I
did something that I’d never done before. I offered Jamie an opportunity to “opt-out”
of the gin review. He refused. He told me he’s very interested in learning what
a whiskey-centric review thinks about his gin – good, bad, or otherwise.
That takes considerable intestinal fortitude, and thus,
he has my respect.
But
let’s not overlook the essential things you should know about The Family Jones.
The
Family Jones operates two campuses. The Denver facility is where research and
development occurs. It runs a hybrid pot-column still and houses all of the
botanicals used from a 10-mile radius. The major operations occur at its
Loveland facility. It handles grain intake, mashing, fermenting, distilling,
aging, and bottling. Its Lead Distiller is Gabe Toth, who himself has impressive
credentials.
Rob
Masters is the Master Distiller. He’s well-known
and respected, involved with several Colorado distilleries, and is a two-term Colorado
Distiller’s Guild president. He is also active with the American Craft Spirits Association.
The
folks at The Family Jones have long-standing relationships with suppliers that
go deeper than just a customer-client one. Their grains are sourced from a handful
of Colorado-based families: The Whiskey
Sisters, who supply 99.99% clean grain (versus
others that may arrive with dirt, roots, old corncobs, etc.). Their farm is 112
years old. Next, there is Root
Shoot Malting (the same folks who make a fantastic American
Single Malt Whiskey), and they have been growing grains for five generations.
GBT Farms, from Johnstown, provides corn and rye, and Jones
Farms, another fifth-generation operation, provides The Family Jones
with rye used as a cover crop for its potato crop.
Founded
in 2017, The Family Jones is considered Denver’s first distillery and
restaurant under one roof. It buys barrels from the Independent Stave Company (ISC),
and the staves are air-dried for 18 months.
The
Family Jones distributes its products to Colorado, Oklahoma, and Nebraska but
can ship to most states via its online
store.
Now
that I’ve written this introduction, I’m ready to crack open these bottles and
#DrinkCurious. I’m serious – I’ve not yet opened anything. Thank you, The Family
Jones, for this opportunity.
Ella
Jones Colorado Straight Bourbon
- Mashbill: 75% corn, 15% rye, 10% malted barley
- Cooperage: 53-gallon, #3 charred oak
- Age: NAS
- Proof: 47% ABV (94°)
- Price: $59.99 for 750ml
Appearance: I
sipped this neat from a Glencairn glass. It possessed a bright, almost rust
color. The liquid formed a massive rim and thick, crazed tears.
Nose: The aroma
started with wheat and roses. Next came vanilla, oak, and malt. As I inhaled
through my mouth, there was cinnamon and cherries.
Palate: Ella
Jones’ texture was thin. The front of my palate found grilled corn and a whisp
of smoke, making me think I was at a campfire. The middle tasted of vanilla
sugar cookies. Oak spice, cherries, and powdered cinnamon were on the back.
Finish: I found
a bit of butterscotch, along with cinnamon, oak, and cherries. At first, it
seemed like the finish was relatively flat and wouldn’t last. However, it
managed to hang around for 2:04, qualifying it as long-lasting.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: Ella
Jones was an easy sipper. It starts mild, much like being introduced to someone
new, and by the time the finish rolled around, you were laughing loudly with
good friends. It was an unusual experience, something that I have always found
intriguing. Is it worth $60.00? I think so, and it takes my Bottle rating.
◊◊◊◊◊
Atticus
Jones Colorado Straight Rye
- Mashbill: 75% rye, 15% corn, 10% malted barley
- Cooperage: 53-gallon, #3 charred oak
- Age: NAS
- Proof: 47% ABV (94°)
- Price: $59.99 for 750ml
Appearance: A neat
pour in my Glencairn glass revealed an almost fluorescent (not neon) orange
color. A medium-thin rim produced thick, slow tears.
Nose: Floral
rye and mint notes were accompanied by vanilla, brown sugar, and malt. Drawing
the vapor through my lips provided a taste of cinnamon and vanilla.
Palate: Atticus
Jones had a medium-weight, creamy mouthfeel. I encountered malt, corn, and
leather on the front of my palate while raisins, dried cherries, and spearmint
formed the middle. Flavors of tobacco, rye spice, and oak made up the back.
Finish: The
long, warming finish included tobacco, mint, rye spice, oak, and old leather. It
clocked in at 1:43; the leather was the last note to fall off.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: It has
admittedly been a while since I’ve had a minty American rye, and I wasn’t
prepared for it. The old leather, especially during the finish, stood out. It
left my mouth with a “pucker power” sensation. It drank somewhat warmer than
the Bourbon, yet still at what you’d expect from a 94° whiskey. I could have done with less spearmint. It takes my Bar rating.
◊◊◊◊◊
Automatic
Jones Smoked Old Fashioned
Mashbill:
This bottled cocktail has orange peel, cinnamon, cloves, gentian, ginger,
lavender, cacao, Guajillo chili, and Lapsang tea. Aside from my general idea, I
am unfamiliar with those last two ingredients. The label suggests Lapsang is a
smoky black tea and comes from TEAKOE in Denver.
- Cooperage: Undisclosed
- Age: NAS
- Proof: 35% ABV (70°)
- Price: $44.99 for 750ml
There’s
a disclaimer here. I live in Wisconsin, and the Old Fashioned was born here.
Most folks in Wisconsin use brandy, but I do not. The back label suggests
serving this over ice and adding a cherry or orange slice. I prefer olives when
I order an Old Fashioned, so that’s my direction.
Appearance: I poured
this into a rocks glass over ice. The liquid was caramel-colored, darker than I’d
expect if I ordered an Old Fashioned at a bar or supper club.
Nose: I
smelled the botanicals. Ginger was the most prominent, along with lavender.
Its aroma was unusual for the Old Fashioned I’m used to.
Palate: Wow. What
hit my mouth was unexpected. Perhaps that was due to a lack of fizz that many
Old Fashioneds have. Its consistency was thin. The smoke was unmistakable. So
were the botanicals. I immediately picked out the cinnamon, orange peel, tea,
and clove right away. It is different from the typical cocktail.
Finish: I didn’t
time the finish, but it was medium-short.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: I gave a
sip to Mrs. Whiskeyfellow. She yelled, “I hate peat,” scrunched her
nose, and made faces. I wouldn’t classify the sensation as peat, but it had an
ashy component. I loved it. So, if you like ash or smoke, this will be your
jam. If you don’t, you should probably pass. Regardless, it deserves my Bottle
rating.
◊◊◊◊◊
Juniper
Jones Earl Grey Gin
- Mashbill: Undisclosed
- Cooperage: 53-gallon barrels that once held Ella Jones, then Earl Grey tea from TEAKOE.
- Age: NAS
- Proof: 48.5% ABV (97°)
- Price: $48.99 for 750ml
Time
for another disclaimer. You already know I don’t like gin. I also don’t drink
tea, and I’m 100% positive that, despite my fondness for Star Trek, I’ve never
tasted tea, Earl Grey, hot.
Appearance: This
gin looked like a whiskey in my Glencairn glass. It had a dull, orange-amber
color. It produced a thick rim that held onto its tears until it could bear no
more. Then, they were slow, thick droplets.
Nose: I
smelled caramel and various botanicals. What I didn’t smell was juniper. As I
drew the air into my mouth, I tasted a bit of smoky tea.
Palate: Juniper
Jones offered a creamy mouthfeel. I expected juniper. It wasn’t there. Instead,
I found citrus, berries, caramel, smoke, and ginger.
Finish: Long
and velvety, the finish maintained that citrusy quality, along with smoke and caramelized
ginger. It lasted 1:07, making it a medium duration.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: I’m
standing up. I’m applauding. My gosh – someone finally did it. Juniper
Jones Earl Grey was utterly un-gin-like. Wow! Bravo! I don’t care what this
costs – and I have no other words beyond those. A gin with a Bottle rating?
Are you kidding me?
◊◊◊◊◊
Final Thoughts: I’m
still floored by this gin. Would my dad, whose go-to drink was a Gibson Martini
with just a drop of vermouth, approve of it? I have no idea. It is the shocker
of the bunch.
As for the two whiskeys, I
preferred the Bourbon over the American Rye. The Smoked Old Fashioned was unique and provided a different outlook
on what can be done with RTD cocktails.
I’m impressed with The
Family Jones. I think you will be, too.
Oh, and I’m still clapping over
this gin. Geez. Cheers!
My Simple, Easy-to-Understand
Rating System
- Bottle = Buy It
- Bar = Try It
- Bust = Leave It
Whiskeyfellow encourages
you to enjoy your whiskey as you see fit but begs you to do so responsibly.
Thank you for taking the time to do such a thorough review. I have to be honest I was surprised to see you enjoyed multiple of their expressions. I attended their initial whiskey launch years ago and unfortunately it was an absolute bust in my opinion. I tried it again within the last year at a bar that had their products in their well and while not as turned off as I was in my first experience I couldn’t finish my pour. All this being said, I appreciated your review and will go back again and re-try their line and especially the gin.
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