Ryukyu is the name of a chain of Japanese islands that
stretch from Kyushu to Taiwan. The climate is subtropical, and the islands
experience significant rainfall, including monsoons and typhoons.
Japanese
whisky is a somewhat chaotic category. There are regulations in place, yet they
are voluntary and unenforceable. The requirements include the following: the
whisky must be fermented, distilled, matured for at least three years, and bottled
in Japan. Grains must be malted, other grains can be included, and e150A
caramel coloring can be added.
Today,
I’m exploring two Japanese Ryukyu whiskies from Hayashi Whisky: KoYo and
8-Year. Both whiskies are distilled from 100% Japanese indica
rice and black koji. Indica is a long, thin, flat grain with an amylose
(one of the two components of starch) content between 21% and 30%. Two of the
more well-known varieties are Jasmine and Basmati. Black koji is a mold
that breaks down the amylose to facilitate fermentation.
Distillation,
aging, and bottling occurred in Okinawa. They were aged in former Bourbon
barrels, are naturally colored, and non-chill filtered.
I’m
very excited to #DrinkCurious because my exposure to whiskies from Japan (see
what I did there?) is somewhat limited. First, however, I must thank Hayashi
Whisky for providing me with samples of each in exchange for my
no-strings-attached, honest reviews.
Hayashi
KoYo Single Grain
“This Hayashi Single Grain whisky beautifully exemplifies a Japanese whisky evolved from rich traditions of the Ryukyu islands. The highest quality indica rice is fermented, as it has been for centuries to make awamori, then rests in barrels amidst the lush Okinawa air, accelerating and invigorating its maturation.” – Hayashi Whisky
Age: NAS
Proof: 43% ABV
(86°)
Price: $59.99 for 700ml
Appearance: I
poured this whisky into my Glencairn glass to sip neat. KoYo was a brilliant
golden liquid. It formed a medium ring that discharged thick, crazed tears.
Nose: KoYo
had a nose unlike any other I’ve encountered. It smelled a tad musty with a
bold, botanical perfume. Once I got beyond those, I smelled caramel and cocoa. There
was honey and toffee when I drew the vapor through my lips.
Palate: KoYo’s
mouthfeel was thin and delicate. Earthy flavors of tobacco, coffee, and leather
hit me like a ton of bricks, so much so that it caused me a small coughing fit.
The second sip allowed me to delve deeper, where the middle tasted maple syrup,
cashews, and something floral. The back included buttered toffee, mushrooms,
and white pepper.
Finish: That taste
of mushrooms stood strong throughout the finish. Caramel, white pepper, leather,
and cashews tried to compete but were unsuccessful. I timed the duration at 0:38,
throwing it into the medium-short venue.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: Hayashi
KoYo was unique from anything I’ve tried. Flavors were all over the place, not disjointed,
but also not layered. Beyond the front, they were independent notes.
I’ve had Japanese rice
whiskies before, and they were unlike KoYo. It is so… gosh, I hate this word,
but bizarre… that I found myself really enjoying it. For about $60.00,
you’re buying an experience, which makes it worth my Bottle rating.
◊◊◊◊◊
Hayashi 8
Single Grain
“The story within this bottle begins 500 years ago, along the iconic shores of Okinawa where indica rice was fermented into the beloved native indulgence of awamori. The Hayashi 8 Year grows these same roots in new, revitalized soil. A single grain whisky aged eight years in bourbon casks is enriched by island air.” – Hayashi Whisky
Age: 8 years
Proof: 43% ABV
(86°)
Price: $99.99 for 700ml
Appearance: I
sipped this whisky neat from my Glencairn glass. It was the color of caramel.
The thin rim created thick, slow legs.
Nose: The aroma
included earthy mushrooms, caramel, leather, and maple. I tasted caramel and
vanilla as I pulled the air into my mouth.
Palate: Hayashi
8 had a thin, silky texture. The front tasted of mushrooms, mild oak, and coconut
milk. My mid-palate encountered pineapples, and I could swear what was Rice
Krispies cereal. The back offered caramel, leather, and walnut.
Finish: The finish highlighted flavors of pineapples,
caramel, Rice Krispies cereal, mushrooms, and toasted coconut. Very late to the
party was oak. I timed it at 1:43, making it long.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: Perhaps
it was that I sipped this a few hours after I drank the KoYo, but there was no palate
shock involved with Hayashi 8. I had fun with it; I appreciated the long finish
and the unusual flavors that were almost perfectly layered. You could tell that
a lot of love went into developing this whisky, and it earns my Bottle
rating.
◊◊◊◊◊
Final Thoughts: While
still somewhat funky with the heavy mushroom influence, Hayashi 8 drank closer
to a traditional whisky (if there is such a thing) than the KoYo, which was in
a league of its own. The Hayashi 8 was layered, whereas the KoYo was not. I
enjoyed both, but between the two, I’d opt for the Hayashi 8. Cheers!
My Simple, Easy-to-Understand
Rating System
- Bottle = Buy It
- Bar = Try It
- Bust = Leave It
Whiskeyfellow encourages
you to enjoy your whiskey as you see fit but begs you to do so responsibly.
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