The House
of Suntory is the largest producer of whisky in
Japan. It all started with Suntory
Yamazaki Distillery, founded in 1923 by Sinjuro Torii,
who many consider the godfather of Japanese whisky. Torii’s dream was to offer
a unique Japanese whisky that his countrymen could be proud of and enjoy.
His
first attempt at Japanese whisky was Suntory Shirofudo,
released in 1929. It was the first commercially available Japanese whisky and
was not well received. In 1937, Suntory
Whisky Kakubin hit the market, was a raging success,
and is still one of the most popular whiskies sold in Japan.
In
1961, Torii was succeeded by Keizo
Saji and named Suntory’s second Master Blender.
Eleven years later, he established the Chita Distillery
and, a year later, Hakushu. In 1989, Suntory Whisky Hibiki
was launched, and in 1994, Suntory
Single Malt Whisky Hakushu was born. Then, in
2002, Shingo Torii took the reigns as the third Master Blender.
The
House of Suntory is responsible for other well-respected brands, such as Suntory Whisky Toji and Suntory World
Whisky Ao. Its flagship whisky, The Yamazaki,
was introduced in 1984.
The Yamazaki has four core whiskies: 12 Years Old, 18 Years Old, and 25 Years Old. Then, there is Distiller’s Reserve, the whisky I’m reviewing today.
Pot
distilled in Japan from both peated and unpeated 100% malted barley, Distiller’s
Reserve is made with water harvested from Japan, and it spent its life aging in
Japan in former Bourbon and Oloroso Sherry casks as well as Mizunara oak and
former Bordeaux wine casks.
Distiller’s
Reserve was introduced in 2014 and is still in production. Yet, strangely, it
doesn’t appear anywhere on the brand’s website sans its name, whereas the
others are broadly featured. While it carries no age statement, some whiskies
that spent time in the Sherry casks approached two decades; the youngest at
least three years. It is packaged in 750ml bottles at 43% ABV (86°) and can be
had for about $90.00.
A
friend was kind enough to share a pour of this whisky with me and asked that I do
a write-up on it. So, let’s #DrinkCurious and learn what we can.
Appearance: I
poured this whisky into my Glencairn glass and drank it neat. It was the color
of dull gold. A jagged, fragile rim produced fast, tightly spaced tears.
Nose: Distiller’s
Reserve was fragrant with notes of golden raisins, apricots, cherries, flowers,
and oak. Inhaling the air into my mouth brought vanilla and strawberries.
Palate: The light,
oily texture revealed a whisky with fruity flavors up front, including cherries,
plums, and apricots. I tasted milk chocolate, peaches, and vanilla at my
mid-palate. Black pepper, dry oak, and smoky oak formed the back.
Finish: Arid and
commanding, the finish lacked fruitiness while spotlighting smoke and spice
notes. Old leather and oak overshadowed the black pepper. The duration lasted 1:38,
placing it in the medium category.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: My
friend and I disliked the first sip, which we found bitter and medicinal; it didn’t
make a great impression. However, the second and subsequent sips greatly
improved once the palate shock passed. The bitterness and medicinal qualities morphed
into smoky woods, bold fruits, and spicy pepper.
I’m unsure what “some” peat
includes, but it was a prominent component. I can’t say I’ve had a Japanese
whisky with this much impact. I don’t want to give the impression that
Distiller’s Reserve is a peat-bomb because it isn’t.
Japanese single malt
whiskies are, almost as a rule, expensive. The Yamazaki Distiller’s Reserve has
a lot of character, and if you take a second sip, you’ll discover that it is
worth a pour or two. Still, you’ll want to try this one at a Bar before committing
further. Cheers!
My Simple, Easy-to-Understand
Rating System
- Bottle = Buy It
- Bar = Try It
- Bust = Leave It
Whiskeyfellow encourages
you to enjoy your whiskey as you see fit but begs you to do so responsibly.
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