During Prohibition, some
distillers were creative at eluding the revenuers and other authorities. Unless
you were one of the very select few who were licensed to distill medicinal
whiskey, getting caught would have meant an all-expense-paid vacation in an
8x10 prison cell.
One of the easiest ways to
get caught was the observation of Baudoinia compniacensis, or black
mold, growing on the sides of buildings. It was a telltale sign that there was
a still inside. One distiller had the ingenious idea to paint his barn black.
Others followed suit. Then, to show solidarity, the area farmers painted theirs
black, too. Because the black mold was no longer visible, and every barn in the
area was black, the illicit distillers had what was referred to as a hidden
barn.
In a nod to that
creativity, Hidden Barn Whiskey was founded in 2022 by Nate
Winegar, who serves as its brand ambassador; Matt Dankher, who
heads up finance and operations; Royce Neeley, its master
distiller; and Jackie Zykan, its master blender. The brand was
since acquired by Neeley Family Distillery in Sparta,
Kentucky.
Jackie comes with plenty of
experience. She was the master taster at Brown-Forman, who created
the Old Forester 117 and 150 series. Royce
has been the master distiller at Neeley Family Distillery for nine years and is
an 11th-generation distiller. Nate is the founder of the well-known
5280 Whiskey Society and a huge (figuratively and literally) people-person.
Hidden Barn’s newest
release is called Perfect Harmony. This Bourbon begins with a mashbill
of 70% corn, 20% rye, and 10% malted barley that Neeley Family Distillery
distilled. It aged six years in new, charred oak barrels, then was transferred for
an additional seven months in first-fill Madeira barrels. From there, the Bourbon
was open-air vatted for several days to allow oxidization. Jackie then blended
eight barrels.
“It’s rare for a blender to create a blend and know instantly when we’ve hit the mark on what we’re trying to achieve. Very often we think about making tweaks here or there to see what will happen. But this year’s Madeira blend is spot on, with the perfect balance of what I was trying to achieve - the right combination between the oak and Madeira make it come full circle.” - Jackie Zykan, Master Blender
Madeira is a fortified wine, much like sherry, from grapes
grown on the Portuguese Madeira Islands off the African coast. Madeira has been
in production since the 15th century. In modern times, it is made by oxidizing
the wine via a combination of age and heat. When aged in barrels (the process
is called cantiero), the process takes anywhere from 20 to 100 years.
But the wine is so stable that it will survive essentially forever, even after
being uncorked!
Perfect
Harmony is the third annual release of the brand’s Madeira-finished Bourbon. It
is packaged at 49.95% ABV (99.9°), and a 750ml bottle is sold at the Neeley
Family Distillery for $89.99. It is also available online and from select
retailers in Kentucky, Indiana, New York, California, Georgia, Colorado,
Nevada, and New Mexico.
So
far, I’ve been very impressed with Hidden Barn’s whiskeys. Before we
#DrinkCurious to discover how Perfect Harmony turned out, I must thank Neeley
Family Distillery for providing me with a sample in exchange for my
no-strings-attached, honest review.
Appearance: I
poured this Bourbon into my Glencairn glass and sipped it neat. The liquid
possessed a dark, almost burnt umber color. A fragile rim dispersed a slow,
wavy curtain of tears.
Nose: When I
brought the glass beneath my nostrils, I smelled plums, berries, bing cherries,
red apples, and leather. Inhaling the aroma through my lips unearthed grapes
and toffee.
Palate: Perfect
Harmony had a thin yet creamy mouthfeel. I discovered flavors of raisins,
prunes, and dried apricots on the front of my palate. The mid-palate offered dates,
nutmeg, and a hint of dark chocolate. The back tasted of old leather, dry oak,
and vanilla.
Finish: I timed
the duration at 1:51, making it medium to long. The leather, nutmeg, and
chocolate remained prominent. Black pepper made a cameo appearance. Raisins stuck
around for the curtain call.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: Perfect
Harmony drank slightly over its stated proof, but that’s not ethanol. Rather,
it numbed my hard palate. There was a balance of sweet, fruity, and savory
flavors. The dry notes that I pointed out were purposeful; Perfect Harmony
sucked all the moisture out of my mouth, leaving me with what I described as “pucker
power” that makes me smack my tongue and lips.
Hidden Barn is now 3/3 for
producing stunningly great whiskeys, and I’m beyond impressed with Jackie’s
talents. I wish this one weren’t a limited-edition whiskey. You need to grab a Bottle
before this one is no longer available. Cheers!
My Simple, Easy-to-Understand
Rating System
- Bottle = Buy It
- Bar = Try It
- Bust = Leave It
Whiskeyfellow encourages you to enjoy your whiskey as you see fit
but begs you to do so responsibly.
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