One
of the most iconic American distilleries is Four Roses Bourbon.
It has two Kentucky locations: the bottling and warehouse operation in Coxs
Creek and the main campus in Lawrenceburg.
The
facts of its beginnings are murky. According to the distillery, it was founded by
Paul Jones, Jr. in 1888 but had been producing whiskey since the
1960s. Another theory is Rufus
Matthewson Rose, a druggist, created it in 1867 as the R. M. Rose Co. Distillery in Vinings, Georgia. The name Four Roses
represented Rufus, his brother Origen, and the sons of Rufus and Origen. Whichever
story is true, the Lawrenceburg distillery was established in 1910 as Old Prentice Distillery, owned by J.T.S. Brown.
In
1922, The Paul Jones Company acquired Frankfort Distilling Company
and a license to sell Four Roses as medicinal whiskey during Prohibition. In
1943, Frankfort Distilling Company was purchased by Seagram for the sole purpose of the Four Roses
name. Despite Four Roses being the best-selling Bourbon at the time, Seagram
halted sales in the United States, and it became an export-only whiskey, where
it enjoyed a massive following in Europe and Japan.
That’s
when Jim Rutledge came to the scene. Many of us recognize Jim as the
previous Four Roses Master Distiller. He started with Seagram, and in 1975, he
was transferred to its New York City headquarters. In 1992, he requested to be
relocated back to his home in Lawrenceburg, and three years later, Jim replaced
Ova Haney as Master Distiller. His goal was to bring Four
Roses back to the United States market.
Then,
in 2002, the Kirin
Brewing Company, Ltd. purchased Four Roses from Seagram and
greenlighted its return to American store shelves. Six years later, Al Young,
the former pretty much everything at Four Roses, became its national brand
ambassador. Jim Rutledge handed the reigns to Brent Elliott in 2015, its current Master
Distiller.
Four
Roses produces ten decidedly different Bourbons, which are called recipes. Most
of them blended as Four
Roses Yellow Label, Four Roses Small Batch,
and, most recently, Four
Roses Small Batch Select.
Each
recipe has a four-digit code. Two of the
four digits are always O _ S _.
The blanks are what matters. There is a 35% high-rye mash labeled B and
a 20% low-rye mash labeled E. Then, the last digit tells you about the yeast:
V = Delicate
K = Baking Spice
O = Rich Fruit
Q = Floral Essence
F = Herbal Notes
If
you take the five yeast strains and two mashes, you get ten combinations. Make
sense?
Four
Roses has also offered a retail version of its Single Barrel Bourbon
for many years. It was always the OBSV recipe. The other nine were available
only as private barrel picks. Incidentally, in 2013, I participated in my first
barrel pick; we chose OBSO.
We
will explore four single-barrel variants: OBSV, OBSF, OESK, and OESO. Four Roses
was kind enough to send me samples of each in exchange for my
no-strings-attached, honest review. I also came across an older media sample of
Four Roses Small Batch Bourbon and will include that as well.
Each
single barrel is aged between seven and nine years, packaged at 50% ABV (100°),
and has a suggested retail price of $49.99 for 750ml. Beyond the OBSV, the
other Single Barrels are new to the retail market. They’re also non-chill
filtered.
Before
I #DrinkCurious, you should know that I sipped each one neat from a fresh
Glencairn glass and allowed adequate time to recharge my palate.
Single
Barrel OBSV
Appearance: The OBSV
Single Barrel had a honey gold color. A fragile rim released tightly spaced,
slow, syrupy tears.
Nose: The
aroma began with honey, vanilla, oak, and cinnamon. Inside my mouth, the air tasted
of raw honey.
Palate: OBSV’s
texture was thin and silky. The front was fruity with apricots, apples, and
honey. My mid-palate plucked leather, brown sugar, and vanilla. The back had
rye and cinnamon spices along with toasted oak.
Finish: Black
pepper, rye spice, cinnamon, and oak rounded everything out, with a duration of
1:47, making it medium-long.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: There’s
really nothing to dislike with this Bourbon. I’ve been drinking OBSV for years.
While every single barrel is, by nature, unique, OBSV is consistently delicious
and well-balanced. I loved the fruity, spicy combination. It is well worth the
$49.99 investment and earned my Bottle rating.
◊◊◊◊◊
Single
Barrel OBSF
Appearance: OBSF
possessed an orange-amber color. The liquid formed a thicker rim that shed widely
spaced, dense, slow tears.
Nose: I
smelled sandalwood, clove, vanilla, and apples. Drawing the air through my lips
presented rich vanilla.
Palate: OBSF
had a thin and oily mouthfeel. Flavors of apples, caramel, and rye formed the
front. The middle included dill, oak, and marjoram. The back tasted of chocolate,
clove, and cinnamon.
Finish: At 1:55,
the medium-long finish featured chocolate, clove, rye, and oak. It started soft
and slowly built into a spicy, savory experience.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: Herbal
notes are always a crap shoot with me. For the most part, I don’t enjoy them. Yet,
Four Roses Single Barrel OBSF is a well-balanced Bourbon. While the herbs are noticeable,
they aren’t overpowering and allow other flavors to permeate my tongue and
throat. It is a tasty combination that just works, and this Bourbon deserves my
Bottle rating.
◊◊◊◊◊
Single
Barrel OESK
Appearance: The
brass colored Bourbon created a thin, beaded rim which created tightly spaced,
fast, thicker tears.
Nose: My olfactory
sense discovered black tea, charred oak, nutmeg, cocoa, and a hint of rye
spice. The air in my mouth reminded me of brown sugar.
Palate: There
was a creamy texture. The front of my palate encountered cocoa, nutmeg, and cardamom.
My mid-palate found black tea, caramel, and red berries. Clove, freshly cracked
black pepper, and oak spice were on the back.
Finish: Black
pepper, clove, fennel, black tea, and caramel notes were all over this finish. OESK’s
finish seemed to run forever. When I thought it was done, it was like an infomercial:
Wait, there’s more! I timed it at 4:04.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: With
all of the savory and spice notes, I was a little shocked when the red berries
came into play. It wasn’t a long-lasting flavor; the others beat it into
submission. Yet, it was memorable. I might have thought differently about the
sipping experience if it didn't appear. As it stands, a Bottle rating
seems well-deserved.
◊◊◊◊◊
Single
Barrel OESO
Appearance: The deep,
orange amber color was enticing. The Bourbon created a thin rim with almost
overlapping, pencil-thin tears crawling down my glass's side.
Nose: The
aroma included ripe plums, brown sugar, raisins, dried apricots, and sandalwood.
Drawing the vapor into my mouth brought rich vanilla.
Palate: OESO
had a thick, velvety texture. Plums, cherries, and vanilla battered the front
of my palate and tried to subdue the mid-palate, where I found caramel, milk
chocolate, and raisins. The back featured dry oak, clove, and light cinnamon.
Finish:
Raisins. Plums. Cherries. Caramel. Vanilla. Those were the sweeter notes. Cinnamon
and oak fought for attention but lost. It clocked in at only 0:56, making it
medium-short.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: The O
yeast has always had a special place in my heart. Between OESO and OBSO, I
prefer the latter, but I’ve never been one to deny the former a fair shot. The
retail release of OESO was excellent; I loved the fruity notes, which wrestled
with the spices. OESO is so deep in my Bottle venue that it isn’t even
close.
◊◊◊◊◊
Small
Batch Bourbon
Four
Roses Small Batch is a long-time staple for nearly any bar. It is affordable, tasty,
and gives an idea of the quality Four Roses has to offer. It is a blend of OBSO,
OBSK, OESO, and OESK and consists of about 250 barrels. While it carries no age
statement, the whiskeys involved are typically six and seven years old. Small
Batch is chill-filtered and packaged at 45% ABV (90°). This Bourbon can be
found for around $38.00 for 750ml.
Appearance: The
orange whiskey produced a medium rim with medium-spaced, thick, fast tears.
Nose: I smelled
bubble gum, vanilla, lightly charred oak, and caramel. When I pulled the air
into my mouth, I discovered vanilla.
Palate: Four
Roses Small Batch had an oily texture. Flavors of apples, pears, and apricots
made up the front, while the middle offered vanilla, caramel, and cherries. The
back included cinnamon, rye spice, and black pepper.
Finish: Flavors
of black pepper, clove, rye spice, cherries, and vanilla stuck around, with the
black pepper lasting the longest. The duration weighed in at 1:49, making it
medium-long.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: There’s
a reason that Four Roses Small Batch is so prevalent, and that’s because it is
an affordable sipper with a lot of character and depth. It drinks slightly
above the stated proof and has earned its mass appeal. There’s no reason to
dislike Small Batch; it takes my Bottle rating.
◊◊◊◊◊
Final Thoughts: Four
Roses deserves its well-received reputation. I was a Jim Rutledge fan and
deeply respect Brent Elliott. They’re both talented distillers.
Without a doubt, OESO was
my favorite of the five. Next came OBSV, OBSF, and the Small Batch, followed by
OESK. Cheers!
My Simple, Easy-to-Understand
Rating System
- Bottle = Buy It
- Bar = Try It
- Bust = Leave It
Whiskeyfellow encourages you to enjoy your whiskey as you see fit
but begs you to do so responsibly.
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