The
tiny Scottish island of Islay is home to about 3000 people, yet is home to ten
working distilleries making some of the peatiest whiskies in the world. They
are Ardnahoe, Bowmore, Bruichladdich, Bunnahabhain, Caol Ila, Kilchoman, Lagavulin,
Laphroaig, and Port
Ellen, which only reopened a year ago after
41 years.
The
tenth is Ardbeg, situated on Islay’s southern coast and founded in
1815 by John Macdougal. In 1838, he sold it to Thomas Buchanan; however,
John’s son, Alexander, continued to run operations. Alexander
died in 1853, and his sisters, Margaret and Flora, assumed control, along with Colin Hay.
Margaret and Flora are one of the earliest female Scotch distillers on record;
the first was Helen
Cumming, who founded Cardhu
in 1824.
Ownership
returned to the Macdougals when, in 1922, Alexander Macdougal & Co.
purchased Ardbeg in its entirety. Then, in 1977, Hiram Walker acquired it only to
shutter the distillery in 1981 due to minuscule demand. Its closure severely
impacted the local economy, as while it only employed 18 people, the town
relied heavily on the distillery.
In
1987, Hiram Walker was sold to Allied
Lyons, and in 1989, the distillery rose from
the ashes, only to be mothballed again two years later. In 1997, The Glenmorangie Company purchased Ardbeg, its current owner.
There
is a thing called the Ardbeg
Committee, which is the official fan club of the
distillery, and it turns 25 years old this year. It is a 200,000-member strong
club; its mission is to ensure that Ardbeg is never mothballed again.
“Recognizing the zeal of the Committee’s deliberations, Ardbeg’s whisky creators summoned a select group to a hidden corner of the Distillery on Ardbeg Day 2023, to take part in an experiment named Operation Smokescreen. At the event, 100 members from 15 different countries, a cross-section of Ardbeg’s diverse, global fanbase, tasted and discussed five extreme (and secret) examples of Ardbeg. Then Dr Bill Lumsden, Ardbeg’s Director of Whisky Creation, and Master Blender Gillian Macdonald took the findings back to their sensory laboratory, challenging themselves to craft a bottling representing the Committee’s multi-faceted preferences.
After months of experimentation, the pair skilfully combined whisky aged in Pedro Ximénez sherry casks with roasted malt spirit matured in bourbon casks in a uniquely complex dram. Salted crispy seaweed and sweet cinnamon jostled with dark-chocolate-coated raisins and burning embers, reflecting the Committee’s eclectic tastes. Thrilled to have succeeded in their experiment, they named their creation Ardbeg Eureka!” – Ardbeg
That
whisky is in my Glencairn glass today, and I’m ready to share my thoughts with
you. I must thank Ardbeg for providing me with a sample in exchange for my
no-strings-attached, honest review. But, before we get there, you need details
on this single malt Scotch.
Distilled
from 100% malted barley, Ardbeg Eureka! matured in Pedro Ximénez sherry casks
and Bourbon barrels. It carries no age statement, and a 700ml is slated at
$84.99. Ardbeg Eureka! will be available exclusively for Ardbeg Committee
members on February 27th at Ardbeg.com. From there, it will hit
select retailers as well as Reservebar.com.
Now
that we’ve got that out of the way let’s #DrinkCurious!
Appearance: I
poured this whisky into my Glencairn glass to sip neat. The brassy liquid
produced a medium rim that stuck like glue until thick, widely spaced tears
fell into the pool.
Nose: As I
brought the glass under my nostrils, I smelled smoked meats, dried cherries, grilled
pineapples, pears, chocolate, and oak. As I drew the air through my lips, I
tasted chocolate milk.
Palate:
Eureka!’s mouthfeel was creamy and mesmerizing, almost begging me to take a
second sip. I succumbed as the front of my palate pulled chocolate, raisins,
and black cherries. I stopped at this point and savored the moment. I took a
third sip, forcing myself to concentrate on the middle and back. Those went from
toffee, cinnamon, and salted caramel to oak, black pepper, and clove,
respectively.
Finish: There
was a sensation of cuddling going on in my mouth and throat. The mildish peat (or
mild for Ardbeg) cozied up to salted caramel, black cherries, raisins,
chocolate, and oak. The duration was 1:24, making it medium-long.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: I readily
admit that I’m a fanboy of Ardbeg and have been for many years. That’s not to suggest
it is a perfect distillery; there have been some rare losers and WTF releases.
With that said, Ardbeg Eureka! is just enchanting. It is somewhere between Corryvrecken
and Uigeadail with a more subtle peat influence.
Eureka! may be my favorite
Ardbeg expression to date – core expressions or otherwise. Even the price is
beyond fair. Don’t sit on the fence with this one. It is well worth buying a
Bottle (or six) and never looking back. Wow! Bravissimo!
Oh yeah, cheers!
My Simple, Easy-to-Understand
Rating System
- Bottle = Buy It
- Bar = Try It
- Bust = Leave It
Whiskeyfellow encourages you to enjoy your whiskey as you see fit
but begs you to do so responsibly.
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