The
First American Single Malt. That’s what Hood River Distillers claims is McCarthy’s Oregon Single Malt Whiskey.
“More than 25 years ago, founder Steve McCarthy returned from a trip to Ireland determined to make his own single malt. Not only did he succeed, but in doing so ignited the craft American Single Malt Revolution. This is passion and craft, an Oregon original.” – Hood River Distillers
There
are a few dots to connect to understand the claim fully. First, let’s look at
Steve McCarthy. Known as the godfather of American Single Malt Whiskey,
he founded Portland’s Clear
Creek Distillery in 1985. His family owned orchards
since the early 1900s. Steve manufactured parts for hunting rifles. His
business frequently took him to Europe, where he discovered pear eau de vie.
European
distillers typically used Williams pears. Steve looked to a similar American
alternative of Bartlett pears. He created his first batch of eau de vie
in 1985, and Clear Creek Distillery was born there.
In
2014, Steve sold his distillery to Hood
River Distillers, which labels itself The Northwest’s
Largest and Oldest Distillery. It was founded in 1934 and assigned DSP-OR-1.
That would solidify its claim of being the oldest in Oregon. It started with
pear and apple brandies. That seemed a natural fit for buying Clear Creek
Distillery.
Hood
River owns another beyond its namesake and Clear Creek. There is Seattle’s Big Gin Distillery, which it acquired in 2016. Hood River primarily sells
whiskeys, rums, gins, and vodkas in the Pacific Northwest.
For
the record, Steve passed away from Parkinson’s Disease on January 2, 2023.
That
brings us back to McCarthy’s Oregon Single Malt Whiskey. Four expressions are
produced: the flagship 3-year, a 6-year, a 6-year finished in PX Sherry casks, and
a 6-year finished in Oloroso Sherry casks.
Today,
we’re exploring the flagship offering. As expected, it is distilled from 100%
malted barley. What’s unusual is that barley is imported from Scotland and
peated. The distillate matured in Oregon oak. There is no indication if the
barrels were new or vintage. A 750ml carries a suggested price of $65.00 and is
packaged at 42.5% ABV (85°).
Hood
River Distillers provided me with a sample of this whiskey in exchange for my
no-strings-attached, honest review. It is Batch W23-01, which was bottled on March
15, 2023.
Let’s
#DrinkCurious and discover what this American Single Malt is all about.
Appearance: I
poured this whiskey into my Glencairn glass and sipped it neat. The liquid’s
coloring was that of golden straw. A medium rim formed, producing thick,
tightly spaced, slow tears.
Nose: As I
peeled back the foil seal, I could already smell Islay peat. As the whiskey cascaded
into the glass, that sensation multiplied dynamically. I then set the glass
aside for about ten minutes, allowing it to breathe.
That did nothing to quell
the peat (I consider that a good thing). Beneath it, I found lemon zest, grilled
meats, salted caramel and vanilla. I encountered plums and strawberries when I
pulled the air through my lips.
Palate:
McCarthy’s texture was thin and oily. On the front of my palate, I tasted smoke,
pears, and plums. The mid-palate offered oak spice, boldly salted caramel, and vanilla.
Flavors of dark chocolate, pepper, and smoked brisket were on the back. Yeah, the
brisket was quite pronounced and unmistakable.
Finish: Dark
chocolate, smoky peat, salted caramel, plums, smoked brisket, and oak remained
in my mouth and throat. Its duration was long, clocking in at 2:10.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: My favorite
cut of meat is brisket, so my palate quickly identified it. I could almost chew
it.
There are too few peated
American Single Malts out there. That’s a shame because peated whiskeys can be incredible.
One of the things that I’ve always hoped for is an American Single Malt (peated
or not) that could compete with Scotch whisky. McCarthy’s flagship can,
and may be one of the most impressive American Single Malts I’ve encountered.
It snags my Bottle rating, and I’m very interested in its other
expressions. Cheers!
My Simple, Easy-to-Understand
Rating System
- Bottle = Buy It
- Bar = Try It
- Bust = Leave It
Whiskeyfellow encourages you to enjoy your whiskey as you see fit
but begs you to do so responsibly.
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