The
Minneapolis, Minnesota distillery, known as Brother Justus Whiskey Company,
was founded in 2014 by Phil
Steger. He looked toward the man at the
forefront of Minnesota distilling: Brother
Justus (his real name was William Trettel). He wasn’t the first moonshiner in the area, but
he felt it was immoral to produce low-quality moonshine that could sometimes be
toxic. If you were going to break the law by running an illicit still, you
don’t do that at the expense of your neighbor’s well-being.
As
Brother Justus learned the trade, he shared his knowledge with others in the
area. He helped, through the church, acquire the necessary materials to build
copper stills and taught locals how to make them and then how to make quality
whiskey. His required payment was called a whiskey tithe, which
consisted of a jar of the whiskey his students distilled. It is estimated that
nearly 1200 corn farmers were using Brother Justus’s techniques before the 21st
Amendment passed, eliminating Prohibition.
Brother
Justus is known for its American Single Malt Whiskeys. As some of you know, the
American Single Malt Category is, legally speaking, brand new. The Alcohol Trade & Tabacco Bureau (TTB), the governing body, has stated that, among
other things, American Single Malt cannot be distilled over 80% ABV (160°),
which is in line with how Scotland distills, as well as American rules covering
the production of Bourbon, American Rye, and several other whiskey types. The
exception is Light Whiskey, which requires distillation above 80% ABV.
Brother Justus has released a statement that it “fundamentally disagrees” with the rules and is considering its legal options to challenge them. It did file commentary in 2022 when the TTB opened the considered regulations for public discussion.
The
position is understandable. Phil and his team are innovators. They’ve done
several out-of-the-box things with whiskey. That brings us to today’s review: its
newest whiskey called Founder’s
Reserve 2.
“I love an Old Fashioned, but I love the big flavors of a high-proof whiskey even more. So, for our second Founder’s Reserve, I selected casks of our American Single Malt that hit those Old Fashioned notes, but from the whiskey itself - no sugar or flavor added.
Each sip of this cask-strength whiskey bursts with notes of jammy orange, brown sugar, melted butter, wildflower honey, allspice, and cinnamon. Like its finish, the possibilities of this American Single Malt are vast: sip it neat, with a drop of water or a rock, or go meta and make an Old Fashioned. I hope you love it as much as I do.” – Phil Steger, Founder & CEO
Distilled
from a mash of 100% malted barley that underwent a seven-day fermentation cycle,
Founders Reserve 2 is aged about a year in new, charred oak and is packaged at
62% ABV (124°), and a 750mL bottle can be purchased from the distillery, the
tasting room, select stores in Minnesota, or from its online store for $129.99.
Something
else you should know about the brand: Brother Justus uses only Minnesota-grown
malted barley and water from the headwaters of the Mississippi River, which,
incidentally, is the only part of the river that runs over a limestone bed.
Brother
Justus was kind enough to provide a sample of Founders Reserve 2 in exchange
for my no-strings-attached, honest review. Let’s #DrinkCurious and discover
what this is all about.
Appearance: I
poured this whiskey into my Glencairn glass to sip neat. It possessed a burnt
umber color. A thin rim formed pencil-thin, slow tears.
Nose: The
aroma included complex smells of dates, orange peel, butterscotch, dark
chocolate, allspice, cinnamon, and oak. Inhaling the vapor into my mouth
revealed fennel.
Palate: A
thick, creamy texture rolled across my palate. The front tasted of coffee,
toffee, and caramel. My mid-palate encountered dark chocolate, leather, and
orange peel. The back featured smoked oak, cinnamon spice, and brown sugar.
Finish: Very long
and warming, flavors of smoke, dark chocolate, toffee, caramel, leather, oak,
and cinnamon Red Hots remained. The experience ran 3:16.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: I know Phil
planned to be an unflavored, high-proof Old Fashioned-like whiskey. It wasn’t
quite that, but I wouldn’t consider it a failure. Instead, this is a flavorful,
depth-filled, Light American Single Malt Whiskey (I just coined that term;
perhaps that’s the next new category for the TTB to consider?). It drank far
below its stated proof.
Some might balk at the
price of a one-year-old whiskey. The beauty of American Single Malts is they
typically mature faster than Bourbon, Rye, and other whiskey types. I’ve had
some six-month-olds that I found stunning. Others might balk at the price
regardless of age. That’s fair; $130.00 is expensive for most people.
So, what’s the rating? Out
of the three Brother Justus whiskeys I’ve tried to date, Founders Reserve 2 is
simply outstanding. The result? Bottle. Cheers!
My Simple, Easy-to-Understand
Rating System
- Bottle = Buy It
- Bar = Try It
- Bust = Leave It
Whiskeyfellow encourages you to enjoy your whiskey as you see fit
but begs you to do so responsibly.
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