These
days, several distilleries are finishing whiskey in Port casks. Finishing is fine in practice,
and I'm generally a fan - not just when a former Port cask is used, but most
types of finishing. I enjoy seeing (rather, tasting) how whiskey can be
changed by having it rest for a few months in a different cask.
But
what is Port? In simple terms, Port is a fortified wine that comes from the
Douro Vally of northern Portugal. Fortified refers to blending wine and spirit
(with Port, it is brandy). There are various reasons why fortifying wine
happens; it started as an inexpensive and safe means to transport wine over
long distances.
Port
comes in four styles: White, Ruby, Tawny, and Vintage/Late
Bottle Vintage. White is made exclusively from white
grapes; Ruby is typically made by blending wines from various vintages and is aged
only a few years; Tawny is aged long-term in smaller casks and made exclusively
from red grapes; and Vintage is made from a single vintage and aged no more
than two years.
The
Quint family at Cedar
Ridge Winery & Distillery
has been involved in the distilling business for nine generations. Its Master Distiller,
Murphy, creates a variety of spirits and learned how to
distill from the folks at Stranahan's in Colorado. The operation is located in Swisher,
Iowa, and was the first legal post-Prohibition distillery in the state.
In
its infancy, the distillery utilized only corn grown on the family farm. As
Cedar Ridge’s whiskeys became more popular, it couldn’t grow enough corn fast
enough and now relies on 100% Iowa-grown corn to supplement what the family can
grow. The barrels are stored in natural-environment warehouses, which allows the
angels to take a larger-than-average share of the whiskey – about 18% versus the
national average of 12%.
Today,
we’ll #DrinkCurious and dive deep into two Port-finished whiskeys from Cedar
Ridge Winery & Distillery: a Bourbon and a Rye. Both are annual
limited-releases. I’m grateful to Cedar Ridge for providing me with samples of
each in exchange for my no-strings-attached, honest reviews.
I
used fresh Glencairn glasses and sipped each neat.
Port Cask
Finished Bourbon
- Release: April 2025
- Mashbill: 74% corn, 14% malted rye, 14% malted barley
- Age: NAS
- Alcohol Content: 47% ABV (94°)
- Price per 750mL: $49.99
Appearance: This
Bourbon presented as a bright orange amber. It created a thick rim with thick, slow,
distant tears.
Nose: Dried
cherries dominated. It took effort to hunt for what lay beneath. I found cocoa,
oak, and light caramel. There were sweet raisins and figs when I drew the air
through my lips.
Palate: The
Bourbon’s mouthfeel was thin and oily. I discovered ripe cherries, plums, and
figs on the front of my palate. The middle tasted of fudge brownies with drizzled
caramel, and the back included oak, black pepper, and leather.
Finish: Chocolate,
cherries, plums, black pepper, and leather seemed glued to my tongue and melted
in my throat. The pepper and leather stuck around the longest. I timed it at 1:36,
making it medium-long.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: I
admire distillers who use malted rye. It is uncommon; it mellows harsh, spicy
notes (almost like Tennessee Whiskey through the Lincoln County Process) and provides
an overall chocolatey experience. Mix that with the stone fruits, and it becomes
dessert-like. It drank at its stated proof.
We know this aged at least
four years in oak before being transferred to Port casks. It may have
spent more time finishing than needed; the influence muted much of Cedar Ridge’s
flagship Bourbon character (which I reviewed several years ago). It scores
somewhere between a Bar and a Bottle, and when that happens, I choose the lower
rating, so Bar it is.
◊◊◊◊◊
Port Cask
Finished Straight Rye
- Release: April 2025 (Batch 2)
- Mashbill: 85% rye, 12% corn, 3% malted barley
- Age: NAS
- Non-Chill Filtered
- Alcohol Content: 52.5% ABV (105°)
- Price per 750mL: $59.99
Appearance: The deep,
burnt-umber-colored whiskey produced a massive rim with gluey, widely spaced
droplets.
Nose: Dense
chocolate permeated my olfactory sense. I smelled dates, apricots, cherries,
and raw bread dough. Pulling the vapor into my mouth allowed me to taste dried
apricots.
Palate: Its
oily texture slid across my tongue as I sipped this American Rye. Cherry cola, salted
caramel, and dates came first. The middle featured chocolate, rye bread, and leather.
Flavors of cinnamon spice, clove, and dry oak formed the back.
Finish: Cinnamon
spice, rye, clove, chocolate, and dates were left in its wake. It was one of
those finishes that began soft and then built momentum. There was some heat,
but it wasn’t overwhelming. The duration ran 1:28, placing it in the medium
category.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: The aroma
left me wondering if I was given a sample of something other than Rye whiskey. Nothing
about it was familiar to what I’d reasonably expect. All that was thrown out
the window when I took that first sip; the classic rye notes became not only
evident but obvious. The Port influence complimented them.
The Port Cask Finished
Straight Rye drank between 5 and 10 points above its stated proof. It also
sucked any remnants of moisture from my mouth. My tongue clicked on the roof of
my mouth.
I reviewed Cedar Ridge Bottled-in-Bond
Rye in 2022. I enjoyed the heck out of it, and I believe the Port Cask Finish
is superior. This one is $60.00, and when contemplating everything this American
Rye has to offer, it is worth the premium. It is an easy Bottle rating
for me, so don’t let this one slip away from you. Cheers!
My Simple, Easy-to-Understand
Rating System
- Bottle = Buy It
- Bar = Try It
- Bust = Leave It
Whiskeyfellow encourages you to enjoy your whiskey as you see fit
but begs you to do so responsibly.
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