Is
it Tennessee Whiskey a Bourbon or not? That's a question that is hotly debated
among whiskey enthusiasts. Folks on the Bourbon side cite how Tennessee Whiskey
meets every legal definition of Bourbon. Folks on the other side will tell you
the Lincoln County Process (LCP) adulterates the whiskey and disqualifies it
from being called Bourbon. Whichever side you fall on, the fact is that
international agreements consider Tennessee Whiskey to be Bourbon.
What
is the LCP? Before the new make is placed in the barrel, it drips
through charcoal from burnt maple for six days. That charcoal filtering process
mellows it by removing any harshness. The LCP is the point of contention in the
debate.
The
largest distiller of Tennessee Whiskey is Jack Daniel's, owned by Brown-Forman.
Jack Daniel’s also makes the most popular American whiskey in the world. One
ticklish bit of trivia is that Jack Daniel's is in Moore County, which happens
to be dry. Considering who the county's major employer is and what it relies on
for revenue, that's curiosity, if nothing else.
If
you’ve not heard the news, Jack Daniel’s has just released its 14-Year-Old
expression.
“When we released our first Jack Daniel’s 10-Year-Old Tennessee Whiskey a few years ago, we set out to honor the legacy of Jack Daniel himself and replicate the lineup of age-stated whiskeys available during his time. This year’s releases build upon that as we re-introduce our new 14-Year-Old Tennessee Whiskey, the oldest age-statement for Jack Daniel’s in the last 100 years or more. These whiskeys really showcase how a little extra time in our barrels is capable of producing something so special.” - Chris Fletcher, Master Distiller at the Jack Daniel Distillery
Jack
Daniel’s classic mashbill is distilled from 80% corn, 12% malted barley, and 8%
rye, and the 6- to 7-day fermentation process utilizes a proprietary yeast. It
comes off the still at 140°, then goes through the LCP: 10 feet of maple
charcoal made at the distillery. The barrels are toasted for 10-12 minutes,
then subjected to a 25-second charring session, resulting in somewhere between
#3 and #4 levels.
Chris
and his team identified several barrels that spent between 6 and 7 years on the
top floors of their rickhouses. Those barrels were moved to the bottom floors
at about 8 to 9 years to reduce further evaporation.
Today,
thanks to the generosity of Jack Daniel’s, I will review three of its Aged
Series expressions: 10-Years-Old (Batch 4), 12-Years-Old (Batch 3), and
14-Years-Old (Batch 1). The distillery provided me samples of each in exchange
for my no-strings-attached, honest review.
Before
I #DrinkCurious, I invite you to read my closing thoughts for some special
news. Finally, I used a fresh Glencairn glass to sample each whiskey.
Jack
Daniel’s 10 Years Old
- Alcohol Content: 43.5% ABV (97°)
- Price per 700ml: $84.99
The
10-Year-Old expression will be available to both the USA and International
markets for the first time.
Appearance: The deep,
orange-amber liquid formed a thick rim, allowing a wavy curtain to drop. There
were also some widely spaced, slow, thick tears.
Nose: I smelled
Maraschino cherries, caramel, toffee, light cinnamon, and toasted oak. I
encountered cherry vanilla ice cream when I drew the air into my mouth.
Palate: The oily
texture introduced the front of my palate to brown sugar, Maraschino cherries,
and vanilla. The middle offered cinnamon, ginger, and leather. I found dark
chocolate, toasted oak, and nutmeg on the back.
Finish: Despite
the 97° proof, the whiskey warmed my mouth and throat. There were flavors of toasted
oak, dried cherries, brown sugar, dark chocolate, and leather. I timed the
duration at 2:02, making it very long.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: I found
the 10-year expression impressive. It was sweet and spicy in all the right places.
I was surprised by how potent this whiskey was compared to its stated proof. I
would have guessed it was closer to 110°. It is priced fairly and well worth
the cost of admission, hence my Bottle rating.
◊◊◊◊◊
Jack
Daniel’s 12 Years Old
- Alcohol Content: 53.5% ABV (107°)
- Price per 700ml: $94.99
Appearance: The rust-colored
liquid created a gluey, medium-thick rim. It took some time before tears were
discharged; they were thick, slow, and widely spaced.
Nose: Bringing
the glass to just under my nostrils, the aroma included nutmeg, caramel, milk
chocolate, butterscotch, and oak. Inhaling the vapor through my lips produced a
taste of vanilla beans.
Palate: The
oily mouthfeel led to flavors of butterscotch, brown sugar, and powdered sugar
on the front of my palate. My mid-palate uncovered milk chocolate, nutmeg, and spiced
nuts, while the back featured toasted oak, cinnamon spice, and leather.
Finish: Ancient
leather, butterscotch, spiced nuts, cinnamon, and clove rounded things out. Cinnamon
lasted the longest. It started warm and leveled quickly; I timed it at 2:21,
making it very long.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: The
12-year drank below its stated 107°. I might have guessed 5-to-10 points lower.
Yet, it was still flavorful and embodied plenty of character. Everyone was so
well-balanced, and that powdered sugar component blended with the brown sugar
was eye-opening. It was like drinking dessert pastries. There’s a lot to enjoy
with the 12-Years-Old, and I’m happy to convey my Bottle rating.
◊◊◊◊◊
Jack
Daniel’s 14 Years Old
- Alcohol Content: 63.15% ABV (126.3°)
- Price per 700ml: $149.99
Appearance: The 14-Years-Old
expression had a remarkably dark, tarnished copper color. It produced a thin,
fragile rim with fat, crooked tears.
Nose: My
olfactory sense plucked bananas, cinnamon, cherries, dark chocolate, and
molasses. Taking that air into my mouth brought a sensation of banana cream
pie.
Palate: The 14-year-old
whiskey’s texture was oily as it slid across my tongue and down my throat.
Flavors of butterscotch, nutmeg, and cherries hit the front of my palate. Next
came pipe tobacco, milk chocolate, and molasses. The back featured leather,
cinnamon spice, and dry oak.
Finish:
Interestingly, this 14-year Tennessee Whiskey generated no heat whatsoever. But
it did leave a numbing sensation on my hard palate. There was smoke, old
leather, butterscotch, ginger, oak, and tobacco, and it was incredibly long at 2:38.
Ginger stuck around the longest.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: Jack
Daniel’s 14-Years-Old shocked me in a few ways. The biggest challenge distilleries
face with older stocks is the risk of a barrel becoming overoaked. That didn’t
happen, and it’s likely due to moving the barrels to the lower floors halfway
through the aging process.
At 126.3°, my mouth and
throat should have been very warm. The liquid went down so easily that it is
what I classify as dangerous – meaning it would be so easy to get
smashed while pouring a second glass (or more). And you’d likely do that
because it is tasty, well-balanced, and enchanting.
Is this an expensive
whiskey? Price is relative, but I’d suggest at only $150.00, it is almost a
bargain and is certainly worthy of my Bottle rating.
◊◊◊◊◊
Final Thoughts: Jack
Daniel’s is so much more than Old No. 7. If you’ve tasted that and
thought it wasn’t for you, you should explore what this iconic distillery has
to offer because it produces some of the best American whiskeys I’ve had,
including some mind-blowing single barrel picks.
I did promise some exciting
news. When I spoke with Chris Fletcher, he indicated that Jack Daniel’s plan is
to include 18-Years-Old and 21-Years-Old expressions. That will take time,
though, as their oldest barrel in inventory is only 15 years old.
Chris also hinted at releasing
older Rye whiskeys, made from its mashbill of 70% rye, 18% corn, and 12% malt.
Like the proposed older Tennessee Whiskeys, this is only in planning.
I do not doubt that the
10-, 12-, and 14-year expressions will be challenging to find. Whether or not
you’ll see inflated prices is questionable. Whether we like it or not, there’s
a worldwide reduction in whisk(e)y demand, leading to layoffs, closures, and
distilleries holding back stocks, allowing them to age longer. All of that
could result in seeing softening in the pricing and is, in my opinion, one
of the reasons you’re going to see older expressions such as Jack Daniel’s Aged
Series. Cheers!
My Simple, Easy-to-Understand
Rating System
- Bottle = Buy It
- Bar = Try It
- Bust = Leave It
Whiskeyfellow encourages you to enjoy your whiskey as you see fit
but begs you to do so responsibly.
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