Old
Fitzgerald is a brand with a long, storied
history. It harkens back to 1870 when S.C. Herbst, a Milwaukee-based
rectifier, created the brand exclusively for private clubs, rail, and steamship
lines. It wasn’t until 1900 that it became a mainstream Bourbon that anyone
could purchase.
One
of the things that sets Old Fitzgerald (or Old Fitz) apart from many is that
whereas many American whiskeys are column distilled, Old Fitz is pot distilled.
As such, it was considered a premium Bourbon. According to respected Bourbon
historian Michael Veach, Herbst originally contracted to distill with Old
Taylor and others while advertising that Old Fitz was the last pot-distilled
Bourbon in production. In the 1890s, his label included a picture of a pot
still to emphasize the point.
When
the Bottled in Bond Act of 1897 was implemented, Herbst purchased an existing
distillery in Frankfort, Kentucky, and began distilling Old Fitz in-house. And
then, Prohibition hit. Herbst sold both the brand and his still-aging
Bourbon to none other than Julian
“Pappy” Van Winkle! That allowed the brand to continue as
a medicinal whiskey. However, the Old Fitz stocks soon ran dry, and Van Winkle,
along with Arthur P.
Stitzel, obtained approval to distill Old Fitz
to replenish those stocks (again, for medicinal purposes).
That’s
when the recipe changed from a traditional Bourbon mashbill to a Stitzel wheated
one. Once A. Ph. Stitzel and W.L.
Weller & Sons merged, they built a distillery in
Shivley called Stitzel-Weller, and Old Fitz became its flagship Bourbon. Old Fitz
was only sold as a Bottled-in-Bond Bourbon; one was four years and the other eight.
Old
Fitz, along with all of Stitzel-Weller, was sold to Norton-Simon in 1972. In 1984,
Norton-Simon was acquired by Distiller’s
Limited Corp. (which has undergone several name
changes and is now known as Diageo). In 1999, Old Fitz was purchased by Heaven Hill Brands, its current owner.
Initially,
Old Fitz seemed to be an afterthought for Heaven Hill. It was a bottom-shelf
dweller. Then, in 2012, Heaven Hill created Larceny, which essentially replaced Old Fitz
while converting Old Fitz to a limited-edition Bourbon.
Since
then, Old Fitz has developed an almost cult following, occasionally releasing
several well-aged Bonded Bourbons in beautiful decanters that command a substantial
price tag. Its newest offering is Old Fitzgerald 7-Year Bottled-in-Bond,
available at a far more accessible price point.
"Seven years proved to be a sweet spot for a Whiskey that already transcends expectations for a wheated Bourbon. This refined Bourbon carries the same layered elegance its longer-aged sibling made famous, and the same commitment to excellence found in every bottle from Heaven Hill Distillery. It was pulled from the barrels at just the right time to appeal to a wide array of palates, making it the ideal Bourbon for a new generation of Old Fitzgerald fans." - Conor O'Driscoll, Master Distiller
Thanks
to Heaven Hill Brands, I’m able to #DrinkCurious and provide my
no-strings-attached, honest review for your consumption. Let’s get started,
shall we?
Whiskey
Type: Bourbon
Distiller:
Heaven Hill
Age: 7 years
Mashbill:
68% corn, 20% wheat, 12% malted barley
Cooperage:
New, 53-gallon #3-charred oak barrels
Alcohol
Content: 50% ABV (100°)
Price
per 700mL: $59.99
Appearance: I used a Glencairn glass to sip this Bourbon neat. The brassy liquid created a thicker rim and released husky, widely-spaced, fast tears.
Nose: After
allowing Old Fitz to breathe for ten or so minutes, I brought the glass beneath
my nostrils and explored the aroma. It consisted of honey, brown sugar,
cherries, pastries, and vanilla. I pulled the air into my mouth and discovered nougat.
Palate: Old
Fitz 7-Year had an incredibly thick, creamy texture. The front of my palate encountered
brown sugar, vanilla, and nougat. Flavors of dried leather and tobacco, along
with a hint of honey, hit my mid-palate. Tastes of oak spice, cinnamon, and
nutmeg grabbed the back of my palate and hung on.
Finish: Bold oak
spice, leather, tobacco leaf, nutmeg, and cinnamon produced a slow-building, incredibly
long-lasting finish. I timed it at 3:14. The roof of my mouth was tingling.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: I still
have the original Heaven Hill Old Fitz Bottled in Bond Bourbon. I took a sip,
and these are two very different whiskeys. The old had more of a brownish hue
and a far less pronounced nose. While the mouthfeel was soft, much like a
typical wheater, it was thin. The palates were like night at day, with the older
offering mostly nuts and spice, and there was a slightly bitter quality on the
finish.
I found the 7-Year Bottled-in-Bond
superior in every way imaginable. It is well-balanced and potent, drinking
slightly higher than its stated proof. I very much enjoyed it, and for the
money, I believe Heaven Hill delivers a pleasurable experience. All of that
adds up to my Bottle rating. Cheers!
My Simple, Easy-to-Understand
Rating System
- Bottle = Buy It
- Bar = Try It
- Bust = Leave It
Whiskeyfellow encourages you to enjoy your whiskey as you see fit
but begs you to do so responsibly.
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