Independent
bottlers are a ton of fun. They get to do things that most folks dream of. They
get to pick barrels, often one-offs (yeah, I know, every barrel is technically
a one-off, but you know what I mean), and either sell them as-is or they can go
the blending or finishing (or both) routes. They’re usually transparent about
where those barrels originated.
In
the United States, independent bottlers are a relatively new breed. In
contrast, in Europe, this has been a well-established industry. I’ve
encountered a handful of the former, and what they produce is usually
worthwhile.
One
such independent bottler is The
Perfect Fifth. Founded in Miami, Florida, in 2019 by Karl Schoen,
it concentrates on barrels from Scotland. That’s because Karl grew up with
Scotch; drinking it had been a generations-old tradition in his family. His
goal is to obtain unique gems that a distillery may overlook. The Perfect Fifth
was named Scotch Campbeltown Independent Bottler of the Year in its
first year at the 2019
Whisky Magazine Awards Bottlers Challenge.
Everything
The Perfect Fifth bottles is at cask strength. They’re all naturally colored
and non-chill filtered to experience precisely what the distillery produced.
Today,
we’ll explore Canongate
15-Year-Old Single Barrel American Whiskey.
American
Whiskey is kind of a catch-all category for American-distilled
whiskeys that don’t quite fit other defined categories. For example, a Bourbon
mashbill might have been aged in used oak, thus disqualifying it from being
Bourbon, or something destined initially to be an American Single Malt failed
to meet the newly approved regulations.
Canongate
15 is part of The Perfect Fifth’s Born and Bottled series, which pays
homage to the bond between Kentucky and Scotland. The whiskey was distilled in
Kentucky and aged there for three years before the intact barrel was shipped to
Scotland to sleep another dozen years.
“The Canongate 15-Year-Old is a unique bottling due to the transatlantic journey the barrel took by first spending time in Kentucky, then in Scotland, and now back in the United States. This bottling celebrates the symbiotic relationship between our two countries in regards to cask sharing.” – Karl Schoen
There
are only 236 bottles available for the American market, and can be acquired at
New York, New Jersey, and California retailers or from The Perfect
Fifth’s website.
This
#DrinkCurious opportunity is happening due to The Perfect Fifth providing me
with a sample of Canongate 15 in exchange for my no-strings-attached, honest
review.
- Whiskey Type: American Whiskey
- Distiller: Heaven Hill Distillery
- Age: 15 years
- Mashbill: Undisclosed
- Cooperage: Undisclosed (assumed 53-gallon barrel)
- Alcohol Content: 63.53% ABV (127.06°)
- Price per 700mL: $185.00
Appearance: I used
a Glencairn glass to explore this whiskey neat. The yellow gold whiskey had
difficulty even forming a rim; there were jagged sections that failed to join.
Instead, thick, fast, medium-spaced tears fell back into the pool.
Nose: I
waited about 15 minutes before bringing the glass to my face. I smelled sweet
corn, caramel, plantain chips, and straw. That is a combination I can’t recall
ever experiencing. I drew the air through my lips to find more sweet corn. It
is at this point that I’ve suspected that Canongate 15 is matured in vintage
cooperage, which explains its American whiskey designation.
Palate: Canongate
15’s mouthfeel was buttery and warming. The front of my palate encountered butterscotch
and blanched almonds. Midway through, I tasted tobacco and old leather, while
flavors of cinnamon and walnuts were on the back. I am now convinced that Canongate
15 was aged in used oak.
Finish: The
finish featured cinnamon, clove, walnuts, and figs. I checked my stopwatch; the
duration ran 0:58, placing it squarely in medium territory.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: Used
oak isn’t a bad thing at all. Most Scotch whiskies are aged that way; virgin
oak is more of an anomaly. What tipped me off?
First, 15 years in new oak
casks should impart deeper colors. It doesn’t matter if it aged in Kentucky or at
the North Pole. The first thing that happens when you put newmake in virgin oak
is that it leaches the color from the wood. Even if this was proofed down to,
say, 45% ABV (90°), this whiskey was far too pale.
Secondly, 15 years in new
barrels should result in a deeper palate, including wood tannins. Those were
notably absent. I put a lot of effort into identifying the various flavors.
Overall, this whiskey
offered minimal “burn” considering its stated proof, and that’s always a pleasure.
If I didn’t know the alcohol content, I would have guessed 105° or perhaps even
110°. Also, the figs that popped from nowhere in the finish were a nice
surprise.
Is Canongate 15-Year-Old
Single Barrel American Whiskey tasty? Yes, I enjoyed it. Yet, however unusual a
15-year-old Heaven Hill American whiskey may be, I find this to be a very
expensive pour. I know that because of its small yield, trying this one at a Bar
first is unrealistic, that’s still my rating. Cheers!
My Simple, Easy-to-Understand
Rating System
- Bottle = Buy It
- Bar = Try It
- Bust = Leave It
Whiskeyfellow encourages you to enjoy your whiskey as you see fit,
but begs you to do so responsibly.
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