Star Union Spirits 75-25 Light Whiskey Review

 

Light Whiskey came about because of vodka’s popularity in the 1960s (or, the Dark Ages). It was officially recognized by the TTB in 1968 and, while initially en vogue, it never really took off.

 

If you’re unfamiliar with Light Whiskey and your gut reaction is, Diet Whiskey, you’re wrong, but you’re in the same camp as most others who have never heard of it. It is called Light Whiskey because of its semblance to neutral-tasting vodka.

 

Not many distilleries distill Light Whiskey, which is interesting because many that make whiskey also make vodka. With vodka, it must be distilled to 190°. With Light Whiskey, it must exceed 160° yet not hit 190°. Either way, they’re working with exceedingly high proof and often, similar ingredients (corn, rye, wheat).

 

One of the reasons there’s not a lot of distiller interest is that the market is oversaturated. That sounds strange, right? It happened because distilleries anticipated demand that never materialized. They’ve held onto those stocks for years; sometimes decades, trying to figure out what to do with them. Much was sold off and blended into whiskeys.

 

In 2016, High West Distillery offered a 14-year-old Light Whiskey distilled by MGP. It won awards and sold out quickly, so much so that High West followed that up with additional releases. That's what garnered the attention of other distilleries and, in particular, MGP, which had been sitting on a ton of it. Suddenly, Light Whiskey was a commodity.

 

For the most part, I enjoy Light Whiskey. Some lovely ones are well-aged, and others are barrel-finished, which draws out flavors from the vintage oak. I’ve had others that have been dull and some that bordered on undrinkable.

 

Let me introduce you to Star Union Spirits. Founded in the historic Westclox factory in Peru, Illinois, by Bob Windy and Jeff Yosowitz in September of 2016, it is the city’s first legal distillery in over 100 years. Next was the approval process from the local government and completing the required renovations, and in May of 2018, the first distillate was made. Today, Star Union Spirits boasts a wide portfolio featuring vodka, agave, a selection of brandies made 100% on site from fresh fruits, Absinthe, rums, liqueurs, Grappa, and, yes, Light Whiskeys.

 

Its flagship whiskey is called 75-25 Light Whiskey, which is distilled from a mash of 75% corn and 25% rye. It is distilled at 170°, enters the barrel at 120°, and once dumped, it is packaged at 107°.

 

75-25 has a busy label that draws you in. The words are printed in different fonts and sizes, and read, “Lairs be damned. Forsaken are those who bear false witness, but fear ye not, the spirit of redemption flows.”

 

I met Bob and Jeff at the 2024 Galena Whiskey Weekend event in Galena, Illinois. Bob and I had chatted a few times beyond that on social media, and recently, he invited me to review 75-25. So, I thank him for this #DrinkCurious opportunity for my no-strings-attached, honest review.

 

• Whiskey Type: Light Whiskey
• Distiller: Star Union Spirits
• Age: NAS
• Mashbill: 75% corn, 25% rye
• Cooperage: 53-gallon new, charred oak barrel
• Alcohol Content: 53.5% ABV (107°)
• Price per 750mL: $48.00
• Barrel No. 11

 

Appearance: I used a Glencairn glass to explore this whiskey and drank it neat. The ochre colored liquid formed a thin rim with medium, tightly spaced, slow tears.

 

Nose: I waited about 15 minutes before smelling the contents of the glass. The aroma was very corn-forward, with obvious rye undertones. As I continued to sniff, I found cherries and oak. Drawing that air into my mouth exposed me to black licorice.

 

Palate: The dense, creamy texture coated the entirety of my mouth. A second swig seemed to add even more weight. The front of my palate discovered caramel, corn, and brown sugar. I tasted leather and black licorice on my mid-palate. The back included flavors of oak, clove, and rye spice.

 

Finish: Clove and rye spice were the most prominent; however, caramel kept battling its way through. Then came cinnamon. I pulled out my stopwatch; the experience ran 1:28, making it medium-long.

 

Bottle, Bar, or Bust: 75-25 isn’t the most complicated whiskey, but remember, this is Light Whiskey, and that simplicity is by design. Yet, there was enough going on inside my mouth and throat to hold my attention.

 

If you’ve followed me for any length of time, you know that there are a few notes I find unpalatable: anise, fennel, and licorice. They’re in the same family of flavors. While I both smelled and tasted licorice, it was subtle. I can handle that just fine, and 75-25 is a mellow pour.

 

Despite the stated 107°, there was relatively little heat, and that might be attributed to the lower barrel entry proof. Star Union Spirits could have made the most from its investment by going to the allowable 125°, yet chose not to. I respect that; at the end of the day, the only thing that matters is how a whiskey tastes, and if it is good, you’ll have repeat customers, which will more than make up for any added expense.

 

I wrote a lot of words here, and you’re waiting for my verdict. I enjoyed 75-25. Obviously, it isn’t a decades-old Light Whiskey, but if you served this to me blind, I couldn’t tell you it wasn’t. For $48.00, you’re getting one hell of a good Light Whiskey that could (and should) be the model for distillers considering adding Light Whiskey to their portfolios. 75-25 is an easy Bottle rating for me; pick one up and you won’t be disappointed. Cheers! 

 

My Simple, Easy-to-Understand Rating System

• Bottle = Buy It
• Bar = Try It
• Bust = Leave It

 

Whiskeyfellow encourages you to enjoy your whiskey as you see fit, but begs you to do so responsibly.