Review of a Bourbon, American Rye, and Light Whiskey from Onyx & Amber

 

“Rosen men don’t drink gin; we drink whiskey.”

 

Those were the words of Benjamin Rosen’s great-grandfather. Benjamin embraced that philosophy and, in 2017, he founded the Colorado Bourbon & Rye Collectors group. It began with 50 members and, over the years, grew to 275. Beyond selecting over 150 barrels, the group is involved in whiskey education and raising money for charitable causes.

 

The Colorado Bourbon & Rye Collectors group led Benjamin to start Onyx & Amber, a boutique whiskey sourcing operation that focuses on barrels between 6 and 27 years old. Rather than obtaining fully matured whiskeys, those barrels are transferred to the Denver facility, located at the former Rising Sun Distillery, where they can continue aging. Onyx & Amber bottles are available under its own label, as well as customized packaging for clients.

 

“For us, it was still about what's inside. And I think that got lost a little bit during COVID and a couple of years after. Our whole goal is to provide high-quality sourced whiskey that is made somewhere else and then is aged in its latter years here in Colorado. And getting that to people in the state and then eventually in the country to showcase what Colorado can do to already established sourced whiskey. All of that at a price that seems fair.” – Benjamin Rosen

 

Today, you and I will explore three expressions from Onyx & Amber: a 12-year Bourbon, a 9-year American Rye, and an 18-year Light Whiskey. Samples of each were provided to me by Onyx & Amber in exchange for my no-strings-attached, honest review, and I am grateful for this #DrinkCurious opportunity.

 

One final word before we get to sipping. I used a fresh Glencairn glass to explore each one neat. Let’s get started, shall we?

 

• Whiskey Type: Bourbon
• Distiller: MGP
• Age: 12 years
• Mashbill: 75% corn, 21% rye, 4% malted barley
• Cooperage: 53-gallon, new charred oak barrel
• Alcohol Content: 53.2% ABV (106.4°)
• Price per 750mL: $129.99
• Packaged for Luxe Liquor (Castle Rock, CO)

 

Appearance: The orange-amber colored whiskey formed a medium rim with thick, crazed tears.

 

Nose: Stewed peaches, cherries, ripe plums, brown sugar, leather, and oak tickled my olfactory sense and encouraged me to pay close attention to what was happening. Taking the aroma into my mouth, I discovered cherries and caramel.  

 

Palate: A silky texture introduced my palate to the tastes of butterscotch, brown sugar, and cherries. My mid-palate pulled flavors of cinnamon, nutmeg, and raisins. I found oak, corn, and gentle rye spice on the back.

 

Finish: Raisins, cherries, brown sugar, nutmeg, oak, and rye spice remained. I timed the experience at 1:06, making it a medium duration.

 

Bottle, Bar, or Bust: Drinking at right about its stated proof, Onyx & Amber’s Bourbon was an effortless sipper. My taste buds and throat were happy, and I noted there was no ethanol burn to this Bourbon. I was impressed by how it went from fruity to sweet to spicy in succession. Its cask strength proof was incredibly low.

 

My lone concern is the price. A 12-year MGP Bourbon can command premium prices. I felt that this incarnation was good, but not $130.00 good. If you’re able to stop by Luxe Liquors, I’d suggest trying a sample before committing to purchasing it. As such, my Bar rating is warranted.

 

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• Whiskey Type: American Rye
• Distiller: MGP
• Age: 9.5 years (3.5 years in Indiana, 3 years in Denver, 3 years in Steamboat Springs)
• Mashbill: 95% rye, 5% malted barley
• Cooperage: 53-gallon, new charred oak barrel
• Alcohol Content: 65.05% ABV (130.1°)
• Price per 750mL: $99.99
• Available at Distillery Only

 

Appearance: The whiskey’s color was a deep, dark amber that looked inviting. A fragile, jagged rim formed, releasing thin, sparse, slow tears.

 

Nose: There was a blast of sweet, brown sugar that caught me off-guard, enough so that I had to stop and ensure this was the correct sample. On the second sniff, I found mint and dill, which allayed my fears. There were also notes of rich vanilla and aged leather. Cherries danced across my tongue as I drew the air into my mouth.

 

Palate: The texture started soft and creamy and evolved into oily the longer I held it inside my mouth. On the front, I detected notes of oak, dry leather, and cocoa powder. The middle offered dill, allspice, and tobacco, while the back included charred oak, rye spice, and a strong dose of cinnamon.

 

Finish: Long and drying, the finish included ancient leather, barrel char, cocoa powder, and cinnamon-soaked toothpicks. There was also a gentle kiss of cherry that came and went almost as soon as I found it. It began warm and then gradually increased. I timed the duration at 1:32.

 

Bottle, Bar, or Bust: Onyx & Amber’s American Rye is a particularly potent pour; it drank right at its stated proof. I found it to be well-balanced, with limited dill and mint influence, in contrast to what often happens with these 95/5 Ryes, where those flavors can dominate. On the other hand, any expected fruity flavors are indiscernible.

 

Moving the barrel from 479 feet above sea level to 5280 feet, three and a half years later, and then to 6732 feet in another three years, should have contributed significantly to its maturation, and perhaps explains the lack of fruit on the palate. Regardless, it is a tasty, interesting pour that I believe is worth picking up; hence my Bottle rating.   

 

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• Whiskey Type: Light Whiskey
• Distiller: MGP
• Age: 18 years
• Mashbill: 99% corn, 1% malted barley
• Cooperage: 53-gallon oak barrel followed by four months finish in a 2008 Buffalo Trace (Buff Turkey) Bourbon barrel
• Alcohol Content: 71.75% ABV (143.5°)
• Price per 750mL: $74.99

 

Appearance: Light whiskeys tend to look, well, light. That’s not the case with Onyx & Amber’s version. It was deep and brassy, evident of its 18 years in oak, plus whatever aspects it had taken on from the Buffalo Trace barrel. A medium-thin rim produced thick, fast tears.

 

Nose: I encountered a floral perfume with my first sniff. There was even something that reminded me of baby powder. As I continued the smelling expedition, I found brown sugar and muted vanilla. Pulling the vapor through my lips brought toffee to the forefront.

 

Palate: A thin, oily mouthfeel disintegrated on my tongue, revealing flavors of caramel, vanilla, and corn on the front of my palate. I tasted apples and stewed peaches next, while the back featured a blend of black pepper, clove, and ginger spices.

 

Finish: There was some competition between the fruit and spice notes, especially with the apple and ginger components. They see-sawed back and forth, while allowing vanilla and black pepper to cheer on their teams. The duration was 1:55, placing it squarely in the long category.

 

Bottle, Bar, or Bust: The whiskey label suggests a hazmat proof, yet my mind says, “No way.” Except for some numbing of my hard palate, there wasn’t any real burn to it. It went down easily. It was balanced nicely. If you asked me blind what I thought, I could guess it was in the neighborhood of 115° to 120°, and I’d be confident in that assessment. So, kudos to Onyx & Amber for that.

 

I find myself honing in on that deceptive proof, which contributes to a truly enjoyable pour of Light Whiskey. At cask strength, with over 18 years under its belt, $74.99 is an extremely fair price. I believe it earned my Bottle rating.

 

Final Thoughts: Some folks know what they’re doing when they pick or source barrels; others are absolutely clueless, as if the opportunity itself is the vital part. I’ll suggest that Benjamin and his team at Onyx & Amber are in the former. I found today’s tasting to be a pleasurable experience, and I’m curious to see what else they have in store. Cheers!

 

 

My Simple, Easy-to-Understand Rating System

• Bottle = Buy It
• Bar = Try It
• Bust = Leave It

 

Whiskeyfellow encourages you to enjoy your whiskey as you see fit, but begs you to do so responsibly.