Review of Ampersand Spirits Malus, Vinea & Opimus Whiskeys & Blends

Foley Wine & Spirits has been making quite the impact in the Wonderful World of Whiskey. Founded by Bill Foley in 1996, it currently owns 24 wineries and a distillery (Minden Mill Distillery of Nevada) as well as an impressive portfolio of wines and spirits from its partners. If you’re wondering why Bill’s name seems familiar, that’s because he’s the same Bill Foley who owns the Las Vegas Golden Knights, a professional NHL hockey team.

 

That brings us to Chip Tate. He founded Balcones Distilling in 2008 in Waco, Texas, and was one of the early distillers of American Single Malt Whiskey. He left Balcones in 2014 after a disagreement with its investors, and then founded Chip Tate & Co. Distillery in 2017, located near Balcones. In 2024, he left that operation to join Foley Family Wines as its Master Distiller.

 

Together, they bring us Ampersand Spirits; its mission is to blend complementary spirits to create an unexpected tasting experience.

 

“Chip is a visionary talent, and his reputation for flavor and whiskey innovation manifests in Ampersand Spirits. The spirits in these three blends were chosen with spirits enthusiasts in mind who are looking for something new and unconventional to push them out of their comfort zones. From a category perspective, American Rye Whiskey in the $35+ range is experiencing double digit growth, and as the globalization of taste trend continues, the U.S. is the now the second largest export market for Calvados.” - Jason Daniel, Foley’s CMO.

 

There are three Ampersand expressions: Malus (the Latin name of the genus of apple trees), Vinus (from the vine), and Opimus (Latin for rich or abundant). Ampersand is available nationwide and from its online store.

 

How do these three taste? Thankfully, Foley Wines & Spirits has provided me with samples of each in exchange for my no-strings-attached, honest reviews, so let’s #DrinkCurious and see for ourselves!

 

Oh, one last thing. I’ve tried each neat in a fresh Glencairn glass.

 

MALUS

 

 

• Whiskey Type: American Rye/Calvados Blend
• Distiller: Undisclosed
• Age: 8 years
• Mashbill: 51% Rye Whiskey, 49% Calvados
• Cooperage: Undisclosed
• Alcohol Content: 46% ABV (92°)
• Price per 750mL: $59.00
• Non-Chill Filtered
• 6000 bottles available

 

Tate’s mindset when creating Malus centered on Calvados’s underrepresentation as a spirit. It is made from at least 40 types of apples and pears. It was distilled in copper stills and aged in French oak barrels.

 

Appearance: The pale, orange amber color looked more like brandy than whiskey. The thick rim discharged a curtain which then split into slow, medium-spaced tears.

 

Nose: I waited about ten minutes before proceeding. When I began my sniffing journey, apples and pears were unmistakable. It was as if I smelled apple pies fresh from the oven! It overwhelmed any Rye influence. Drawing the aroma into my mouth exposed me to a smidge of caramel.

 

Palate: Malus offered a smooth, silky texture with no palate shock. The front of my palate plucked notes of toffee, caramel, and nutmeg. Midway through, I found cinnamon, apples, and pears. Clove, oak spice, and mild rye hit the back of my palate.

 

Finish: Long and level, the finish consisted of caramel, leather, clove, oak, and baked apples.  

 

Bottle, Bar, or Bust: Malus drank way, way below its stated proof. Without knowing anything, I could have easily mistaken it for a liqueur. It had plenty of character, which encouraged me to continue sipping. I also recognized that Malus could get me into trouble if I were inattentive to volume.

 

Ampersand Malus was more of a brandy than a whiskey. I really enjoyed what I was drinking and found it impressive. For the price, it is worth picking up a Bottle.  

 

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VINEA

 

• Whiskey Type: Straight Rye Whiskey Blended with Grain Neutral Spirits
• Distiller: Undisclosed
• Age: 8 years
• Mashbill: 75% Straight Rye Whiskey, 25% Grain Neutral Spirits
• Cooperage: New, Charred American Oak and Former XO Cognac casks
• Alcohol Content: 46% ABV (92°)
• Price per 750mL: $59.00
• Non-Chill Filtered
• 8500 bottles available

 

The Grain Neutral Spirit component is derived from 100% corn that aged in former XO Cognac casks for over nine years. Tate’s inspiration was from blended Scotches, which seems interesting.

 

Appearance: The topaz color was inviting. The spirit produced a bold rim, resulting in medium-spaced, syrupy tears.

 

Nose: Not knowing what to expect, I went with the proof and waited about ten minutes before exploring the aroma. Butterscotch exploded from the glass. Beyond that were honey, raisins, and fresh leather. Drawing the air through my lips brought a note of rich honey.

 

Palate: Vinea’s mouthfeel was thin yet creamy, and the palate shock was dry and spicy. With my second sip, I discovered thick caramel and brown sugar on the front. Midway through, notes of French oak, dry leather, and honey emerged. The back included black pepper and rye spice.  

 

Finish: Vinea was sweet. It was spicy. Black pepper, rye spice, French oak, and a boatload of caramel parked on my tongue and in my throat. The duration ran 1:32, pushing it toward the end of a medium experience.

 

Bottle, Bar, or Bust: I had no idea what to expect with Vinea, and I mean that in a way that’s not just about drinking something new to me. Grain neutral spirits is essentially vodka that’s not been through further distillation cycles. The Cognac would have added a brandy quality. But what about the Rye? Without knowing the mashbill, it could be Bourbonesque at barely legal or a complete spicebomb if 95/5 or pure.

 

And, frankly, after drinking it, I couldn’t even hazard a guess. Vinea was very sweet in spots, and the Cognac influence was definitive. Was the spice due to Rye, French oak, or both? Shrug.

 

Is it whiskeyish? Sure. Is it interesting? Absolutely. Proof-wise, it is an easy sipper. But it isn’t something I can drink without analyzing what is in my glass. So, yes to the taste, no to having an in-depth, irrelevant conversation with someone while doing so.

 

For about sixty bucks, this spirit will captivate you and provide a few head-scratchers. It falls on the fascinating side of unique, and for me, that equals a Bottle rating.

 

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OPIMUS

 

• Whiskey Type: Kentucky Straight Bourbon
• Distiller: Undisclosed
• Age: 15 years
• Mashbill: Undisclosed
• Cooperage: Undisclosed maturation, finished in Tokaji casks
• Alcohol Content: 58.3% ABV (116.6°)
• Price per 750mL: $150.00
• Non-Chill Filtered
• 11,500 bottles available

 

A Tokaji barrel is a fascinating vehicle for a finishing cycle. I’ve had a handful of Tokaji-finished whiskeys, and I was so intrigued that in 2021, I bought a bottle of this Hungarian dessert wine and reviewed it. I’ve yet to experience a Tokaji finished whiskey that didn’t impress (fingers crossed here!).    

 

Appearance: This Bourbon presented as a deep, dark, burnt umber. A pencil-thin rim created cramped, thin, slow tears.

 

Nose: Given the higher proof, I waited about 15 minutes for this whiskey to breathe. When I approached the nose, I smelled vanilla frosting, figs, dried apricots, caramel, and mild oak. Taking the vapor through my lips, I tasted rich caramel.

 

Palate: Opimus had a thin, silky mouthfeel and, despite its higher proof, lacked palate shock. Instead, I discerned caramel, toffee, and honeysuckle on the front of my palate. Next were flavors of figs, apricots, and orange peel, while the back featured dry oak, milk chocolate, and powdered cinnamon.

 

Finish: It began and ended sweet and fruity with notes of figs, apricots, milk chocolate, caramel, and honeysuckle. There was no buildup, no ramping. Instead, it was even-keeled, coating my tongue and throat. Using my stopwatch, the duration lasted only 54 seconds.

 

Bottle, Bar, or Bust: Chalk another win up for Tokaji wine cask finishes, because I enjoyed Ampersand Opimus. The Tokaji influence was intense in a lovely way. I cherished this Bourbon’s sweetness with only a hint of spices. It drank nowhere near its stated proof; I’d guess about 90° or so. It is a dangerous sipper that requires paying attention before you stand up, otherwise you’ll find yourself on an unplanned adventure.

 

There’s really nothing to dislike here short of the brief finish, and while we don’t know which Kentucky distillery is responsible for Opimus, it also doesn’t matter. All that does is that this Bourbon is delicious and worth buying a Bottle. Cheers!

 

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Final Thoughts: Sampling through the Ampersand Distilling portfolio was fun. My order of preference was Opimus, Malus, and, finally, Vinea. However, if you want something to talk about for hours, I recommend Vinea.

 

The entire series will throw you for a loop at least three times. No matter which you choose, you’ll appreciate Chip’s skills as a blender, and the bottles themselves are conversation pieces. Cheers!

 

My Simple, Easy-to-Understand Rating System

• Bottle = Buy It
• Bar = Try It
• Bust = Leave It

 

Whiskeyfellow encourages you to enjoy your whiskey as you see fit, but begs you to do so responsibly.