India
is the world's largest producer of sugarcane. Sugar cane is used, among other
things, to produce molasses. And in India, many products labeled
"whisky" for the domestic market are nothing more than fermented
molasses, similar to what we'd recognize as rum.
However,
for export purposes, Indian whisky is the nice, tight definition that the rest
of the world uses. It is distilled from grain and shares many qualities with
Scotch, Irish, and other whiskies.
What
differentiates Indian Single Malts from their cousins is that the typical
barley used is six-row, rather than the more common two-row. Six-row barley is
typically used in animal feed. It possesses more protein and less starch than
its two-row counterpart. It also has a higher enzyme content to convert
starches to sugars during fermentation. On the other hand, two-row barley is
easier to grow, especially in drought-prone conditions, and you get a greater
yield of distiller's beer than you would with six-row. Finally, two-row barley
usually offers milder flavors.
Whiskies
from India mature faster in the scorching climate than their Scottish or Irish
counterparts, often at 3-5 times the rate, giving the angels between 10% and
12% each year.
When
Godawan whisky was introduced to the market in 2022, it was
meant to help protect the nearly extinct Great Indian Bustard (called Godawan
in Hindi). There are only about 150 of these birds left, and part of the conservation
effort is to purchase more nearby land, which, in turn, would hopefully
(although slowly) lead to more Great Indian Bustards.
Godawan
is distilled by Alwar
Distillery and owned by Diageo India.
It is the first distillery in Asia to receive the Alliance for Water
Stewardship (AWS) Core certification in 2023 for its conservation efforts,
which include water reclamation, tree planting, and working with local
communities.
"Each bottle of Godawan can be traced back to a cluster of barley farms in Rajasthan, ensuring transparency and authenticity of the product and gets its provenance from extreme temperatures which lend it a rare & subtle complexity, and a unique taste. The whisky is not just a testament to the region's craftsmanship and ingenuity, but also commitment to sustainability and preservation of the land it comes from – and it begins with the Great Indian Bustard." - Vikram Damodaran, Chief Innovation Officer, Diageo India
Godawan
whiskies are aged in casks infused with Indian botanicals. It is currently
offered in two variations: Series 01:
Rich and Round and Series 02: Fruit and Spice.
We'll explore today, as Godawan was kind enough to provide me with samples of
each in exchange for my no-strings-attached, honest reviews. Let's
#DrinkCurious and get to that right now.
Series 01:
Rich and Round
- Whiskey Type: Indian Single Malt
- Distiller: Alwar Distillery
- Age: NAS
- Mashbill: 100% malted six-row barley
- Cooperage: Matured in former Bourbon barrels, then finished in Pedro Ximénez sherry casks
- Alcohol Content: 46% ABV (92°)
- Price per 750mL: $85.00
- Naturally Colored
Appearance: In my
Glencairn glass, a neat pour revealed a brassy liquid that formed a thin,
jagged rim. The thick tears were medium-spaced and incredibly fast.
Nose: I gave
this whisky about 15 minutes to acclimate before I began my nosing. The aroma
included malt, oak, raisins, plums, cherries, molasses, sherry, and chocolate.
When I drew the air through my lips, I found chocolate and oranges.
Palate: Godawan's
mouthfeel was light and velvety. I didn't experience a palate shock. The front tasted
of oranges, dark chocolate, and caramel, while my mid-palate encountered plums,
molasses, and apricots. Notes of toasted oak, ginger spice, and older leather
hit the back.
Finish: Mostly
even-keeled, the finish was sweet, yet dry. Leather, oak, dark chocolate,
molasses, and dried apricots lingered in my mouth and throat, offering a wide
range of flavors and sensations. Ginger spice parked on my tongue. In my mind,
it seemed to have a medium duration. Per my stopwatch, it lasted 1:58, making
it quite long.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: I've
had many Indian Single Malt whiskies over the years, and Godawan Series 01:
Rich and Round was unlike any of them. I have a strong attraction to the
unusual.
The whisky drank a handful
of points above its stated proof; I'd guess somewhere around 100°. Still, it
was an easy drinker, one that I could effortlessly imagine enjoying on a springtime
afternoon on my back deck. Much like the Indian dessert, Godawan Series 01:
Rich and Round possessed a significant drying effect that I'd classify as pucker
power. It certainly lives up to its name, and I'm happy to have this in my
whiskey library, and comfortable granting it my Bottle rating.
◊◊◊◊◊
Series 02:
Fruit and Spice
- Whiskey Type: Indian Single Malt
- Distiller: Alwar Distillery
- Age: NAS
- Mashbill: 100% malted six-row barley
- Cooperage: Matured in former Bourbon barrels, then finished in cherry wood casks
- Alcohol Content: 46% ABV (92°)
- Price per 750mL: $85.00
- Naturally Colored
Appearance: Poured
neat into my Glencairn glass, this copper-colored whiskey produced a thick rim
with thick, crazed, fast tears.
Nose: After
15 minutes, I delved into the nosing and encountered notes of bananas, toasted
coconut, raisins, blueberries, vanilla, oak, and barrel char. Inhaling the
vapor into my mouth brought a toasted coconut flavor.
Palate: With
the initial sip, I experienced a soft, silky texture with no palate shock. I
tasted caramel, orange zest, and honeydew melon on the front of my palate. Next
came Bosc pears, Honeycrisp apples, and dried tobacco leaf at my mid-palate.
The back featured black pepper, toasted oak, and leather.
Finish: What
remained included melon, pears, caramel, black pepper, oak, and leather. It was
a delicately balanced finish, hovering between fruit and spice; the fruit wasn't
overly sweet, nor the spice producing heat. The oak and leather gave it a
slightly arid effect. It petered out at 1:18, and I'd classify that as a medium
duration.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: Fruit
and Spice is aptly named and clearly defines what's in the glass. It was very
much a yin-yang sipping experience, with the transition occurring smack in the
middle of my mid-palate. Even the finish seemed equally divided. How did Alwar
Distillery accomplish that feat? I have no idea. It does, however, prove
artistic talent that I found mesmerizing. My rating is a Bottle. I don't
know how it could be anything else.
◊◊◊◊◊
Final Thoughts: Alwar
Distillery created two whiskies that are completely different from what I’ve experienced
with Indian Single Malts. I’ve been a fan of this whisky category, and my
horizons have been expanded. Which is the better choice? While I don’t believe you
can go wrong with either, and despite my love for PX Sherry-finished whiskies,
I found Series 02 edging out Series 01 by a hair. Cheers!
My Simple, Easy-to-Understand
Rating System
- Bottle = Buy It
- Bar = Try It
- Bust = Leave It
Whiskeyfellow encourages you to enjoy your whiskey as you see fit,
but begs you to do so responsibly.




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