How
many times have you heard folks say, “How hard can it be,” when it comes to
distilling? That’s more common than you think! Some start their own distillery
and fail miserably. Others source and blend and (again) miss the mark. They
don’t last very long in this business.
Then
some are hyper-focused and incredibly creative. Perhaps they put together a stunning
mishmash of equipment (including a turkey fryer!) never meant to be used for
distilling, that a master plumber just made it work, including their first
still used to make moonshine, a compact water heater. Or, they could have
charred tree branches found around town to “age” the newmake in mason jars.
Yeah,
the team at Branch
& Barrel Distilling did all that. That
was back in 2010, and it isn’t some tall-tale BS backstory; I visited the
distillery on April 23, 2026, and saw it for myself.
It
took six years from when tinkering began to when reality set in. In 2016, the
founders, Ryan Morgan, Tom
Seilaff, and Scott Freund, built their
distillery in Centennial (a Denver suburb) from a former auto body shop and
still employ that experimental approach to making whiskey, and their first
spirits were available the following year.
They
still work their day jobs; Tom is a general contractor, Ryan a residential
homebuilder, and Scott a master plumber and HVAC technician. The distillery is
open Thursday through Sunday. They’ve learned what works and what doesn’t, and
remain unafraid to do what nobody else has (or at least not successfully). They
are big on transparency, as with many whiskey aficionados, the marketing-speak didn’t
sit well with them.
Branch
& Barrel purchased food-grade equipment at auctions across the country to
make their distilling and fermenting equipment. For example, the first “real”
still was a former Campbell’s
Soup maker. They used it exclusively until
2017, when it basically fell apart. That led to the purchase of an 800-gallon
combination still, which they call Rosalinda, named for two women (Rosa
and Linda) who were very dear to the team. Growth required a second still,
which is named Delta (meaning change). They’ve upcycled stainless
steel condiment makers, water plant tanks, petroleum vessels, and other, seemingly
random, non-distilling equipment.
All
of the grains Branch & Barrel uses are grown on Colorado farms: corn from
Wiggins and barley, rye, and wheat from Monte Vista. Even the water comes from
their own well in nearby Elizabeth.
Here
is where things begin to get crazy. On the very first day of distillation,
their brand-new head distiller discovered he had a severe barley allergy. Rick Warren,
the building’s electrician, conveniently, was interested in distilling and
stepped in. Branch & Barrel’s current master distiller is Ted Smith,
who started as an assistant distiller in 2021 and earned his current title in
2025. Ted is a master of all things fermented, with experience in brewing,
distilling, winemaking, and pickling.
That
brings us to Master Blender Mitch “The Thumb” Nester. Like everyone else at Branch &
Barrel, he stumbled into the job and is self-taught. His moniker was a humorous
tip of the hat to Nancy
Fraley (known throughout the whiskey world as “The
Nose”).
If
you’ve not yet figured it out, everything that Branch & Barrel does focuses
on innovation and explores what-ifs, and is done in-house by trial and
error – it leads to learning and new ways of doing things.
Here’s
where things get even more mind-boggling: All of the spirits are made using sweet
mash, meaning there’s no backset, which translates to every batch being
unique.
This
team of rogue whiskeymakers is some of the friendliest people you’ll run into.
I spent a few hours chatting (and tasting) with Mitch. We didn’t just talk
about what Branch & Barrel is making; we delved into Scotch and Irish
whiskies, then moved on to other Colorado distilleries. Branch & Barrel
even collaborated with Mile High
Spirits, Root Shoot Spirits,
and the Whiskey Slickers to create a whiskey called Skill Check.
The team is big on giving back to the community, supporting charities through auctions, sponsorships, and cocktail sales.
After
the fun times I had geeking out with Mitch, he gave me two whiskeys in exchange
for my no-strings-attached, honest reviews: their Flagship Bourbon
and Plumwood. Today, we’ll explore the former, and the latter
will come at a later date.
Flagship
is distilled from a mash of 80% corn and 20% malted barley. Branch & Barrel
employs a slow distillation process, followed by a slow fermentation that takes
five days. After distillation, barrels are filled at 52% ABV (104°), which is
unusually low for the industry. Choosing the lower entry
proof leads to a consistently softer, more well-rounded, creamy mouthfeel, and
there are fewer tannins from the oak to deal with, which creates sweeter
whiskeys. Most distilleries use between 110° and 115°.
Bottled
at 46% ABV (92°), Flagship is non-chill filtered and has a suggested price of
$52.99.
Are
you ready to find out if Flagship Batch 34 is any good? Let’s #DrinkCurious!
- Whiskey Type: Bourbon
- Distiller: Branch & Barrel Distilling
- Age: Minimum of 4 years (5 per website)
- Mashbill: 80% corn, 20% malted barley
- Cooperage: New, 53-gallon #3 char, medium toasted oak barrels
- Alcohol Content: 46% ABV (92°)
- Price per 750mL: $52.99
- Non-Chill Filtered, Batch 34
Appearance: I used
a Glencairn glass to explore this Bourbon neat. The topaz color was inviting. A
huge rim formed widely-spaced, thick, syrupy tears.
Nose: I
allowed my usual 15-minute wait before starting my nosing journey. During that
time, the air was filled with the scent of honey and biscuits. When I brought
the glass beneath my nostrils and inhaled, I found notes of chocolate, vanilla,
strawberries, raw almonds, and pastries. As I pulled that vapor into my mouth, that’s
when the honey became evident.
Palate: Flagship
possessed an incredibly creamy texture. That’s the low entry proof talking! There
was no palate shock whatsoever. On the front, I tasted buttercream, toffee, and
milk chocolate. My mid-palate pulled strawberries, almond nougat, and a kiss of
honey. There were flavors of oak, cherries, and mild clove on the back.
Finish: Things
started mild and slowly (very much so) crawled to a finish with a brief intensity
of clove and oak. At the same time, almond nougat, cherries, and chocolate successfully
subdued those spice notes. It had a slight drying effect. The duration lasted
1:06, making for a medium finish.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: Firstly,
I should admit that I had a decent idea of what I was getting into, as this was
one of the whiskeys I tasted during my visit. I didn’t dive deep that day; I
took a quick taste, but I enjoyed what was in my glass enough to want to review
it.
In many ways, Flagship was
a dessert whiskey; it was mostly sweet and mildly spiced. The mouthfeel made my
eyes roll back and caused me to smile. That’s such an overlooked quality in
today’s market. It is well-balanced and proofed correctly (there is a 110°
version that I tried that is also excellent).
For a bunch of guys who thought they had no idea what they were doing, they sure do make great whiskey. I’m thrilled to
have this in my whiskey library; it steals my Bottle rating. Cheers!
Stay tuned for my review on Plumwood…
My Simple, Easy-to-Understand
Rating System
- Bottle = Buy It
- Bar = Try It
- Bust = Leave It
Whiskeyfellow encourages you to enjoy your whiskey as you see fit,
but begs you to do so responsibly.







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