Hiram
Walker is one of those names most people
recognize. Born on July 4, 1816, in Massachusetts, he moved to Detroit at 22
and took a job as a grocery store clerk. As he learned the ins and outs of the
grocery business, Walker saved enough money to purchase 468 acres of land on
the other side of the Detroit River, near Windsor, Ontario. In 1858, he built the Hiram Walker & Sons Distillery on that land and also constructed the town around it,
which he called Walkerville. Essentially, Walkerville was completely
Walker’s design. Walkerville was incorporated in 1870 and then annexed by
Windsor in 1935.
At
first, Walker was making vinegar. He was also in the grain business, selling
his stocks to local flour mills. Changing things up to producing whisky seemed
almost natural.
His
whisky was called Hiram
Walker’s Club Whisky. He sold them in barrels bearing his
brand’s name, which was remarkably different from how others marketed theirs.
Most shipped unbranded barrels to grocers; this gave Walker’s an aura of
poshness. His whisky became very popular both in Canada and the United States,
and so much so in the United States that it was often the exclusive whisky of
various gentlemen’s clubs, and soon, it was just referred to as Club Whisky.
At
this point, American distillers took notice and were less than happy because it
was negatively affecting Bourbon’s popularity. They complained to their
representatives, and Congress passed a law requiring all foreign distillers to
label their whisky with the country of origin. At that point, Club Whisky
became Canadian Club and was the best-selling exported Canadian whisky.
When
Prohibition passed in the United States, Canada followed suit with Ontario’s
Liquor Control Act. While Canadians couldn’t publicly drink alcohol, there was
nothing precluding the continued distillation and manufacturing of it.
Smuggling across the Detroit River became the norm; 75% of the liquor illicitly
distributed in the United States came through the US-Canadian border. Walker
was loading up every boat he could find with jugs of Canadian Club, making it
the most smuggled whisky in the United States.
Hiram
Walker died in 1899, and his family continued to operate the distillery until
1926, when it was sold to Harry C.
Hatch. Hatch’s son, Clifford,
sold it to Allied
Domecq in 1987, which then became part of Pernod Ricard SA. However, Canadian Club was acquired by Jim Beam
and is today owned by Suntory
Global Spirits.
Canadian
Club has received royal warrants from Queen Victoria, King Edward VII, George V, George VI, and Queen
Elizabeth II, and, interestingly, is the only North
American distiller to have received such warrants.
That’s
a lot of history to talk about Canadian
Club 9-Year-Old Reserve. Aged for 50% more
than the flagship Canadian
Club 1858. It matured in recharred oak barrels
and is packaged at 40% ABV (80°). It is still made at The Hiram Walker &
Sons Distillery in Windsor. Canadian Club Reserve used to be aged 10 years, and
allegedly taking off a year improved it. However, that doesn’t mean every
whisky in the blend is only 9 years old; it’s just that the youngest one is.
I
found a 750mL bottle for $16.99 at a Denver liquor store. Did I spend my money
wisely? We’ll #DrinkCurious to find out.
- Whiskey Type: Canadian whisky
- Distiller: Hiram Walker & Sons Distillery
- Age: 9 years
- Mashbill: Undisclosed blend of corn, rye, rye malt, and barley malt
- Cooperage: Recharred vintage Bourbon barrels
- Alcohol Content: 40% ABV (80°)
- Price per 750mL: $16.99
Appearance: As
e150A caramel coloring is allowed (and used), its deep, orange amber appearance
isn’t indicative of anything. However, Canadian Club 9 produced a husky rim
with widely spaced, fast, crazed tears.
Nose: I was
taken aback by how fragrant this whisky was while I was waiting the 15 minutes
for it to breathe. The air in my whiskey library was full of floral perfume.
When I was ready to approach it, I smelled corn, toffee, floral rye, oak,
tobacco leaf, and a slight hint of menthol. When I brought the vapor into my
mouth, I found a healthy dose of vanilla.
Palate: Canadian
Club 9 offered a massively creamy texture, with a rye-spice blast. With my second
sip, I discovered corn, dark chocolate, and toffee on the front, with tobacco
leaf, cocoa, and caramel on my mid-palate. The back was somewhat spicy, with dry
oak, rye, and clove.
Finish: Cocoa,
caramel, toffee, rye spice, and clove made for a mostly level, warm, and dry, albeit
shorter, finish. The duration ran only 44 seconds.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: Some of
these low-proof Canadian whiskies punch way above their published weight, and I
don’t mean they’re like drinking hot garbage.
Were I walking into this
tasting blind, I’d guess that Canadian Club 9-Year-Old Reserve was closer to 45%
ABV (90°), and ten points is a big deal! It had the smoothness that Canadian
whisky fans lust over and went down easily despite that higher-proofed mirage. The
only off-putting part of the whole ordeal was that tiny bit of menthol on the
nose.
For only $17.00, you can’t
go wrong with Canadian Club 9-Year-Old Reserve. It deserves my Bottle
rating.
Final Thoughts: Between
the 9- and 12-year expressions, I’d fall on the side of the latter, but only
because it was a sweeter sipping experience. However, if you’re more into a
Canadian Rye being, well, Rye-like, then you’d gravitate to the former. Both
are respectable and very wallet-friendly. Cheers!
My Simple, Easy-to-Understand
Rating System
- Bottle = Buy It
- Bar = Try It
- Bust = Leave It
Whiskeyfellow encourages you to enjoy your whiskey as you see fit,
but begs you to do so responsibly.

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