Review of Heaven's Door "Refuge"

 

Heaven’s Door is a whiskey brand founded in 2015. Bob Dylan trademarked the term bootleg whiskey, although he did not initially intend to create a whiskey brand. However, Marc Bashula and Ryan Perry, two whiskey experts who had previously worked with Angel’s Envy and Diageo, respectively, saw an opportunity and invited Dylan to join them in their whiskey venture. Although Dylan initially scoffed, he eventually changed his mind in 2018 and became a co-creator. The name was inspired by his 1973 hit Knocking on Heaven’s Door.

 

While perusing my grocery store’s selection of whiskeys, I found a clearance cart that included a 200mL bottle of Heaven’s Door Refuge for $10.99. I couldn’t pass that up.

 

What is Refuge? It is a sourced Canadian whisky that aged between 6 and 8 years in undisclosed oak cooperage, then finished for around 6 months in Amontillado Sherry casks.

 

Amontillado is a darker, dry sherry made from Palomino grapes and originates from the Montilla-Moriles region of Spain. It is aged at least two years and typically offers a nutty flavor.

 

“Our own distilled straight rye whiskey with a 100% rye mash bill and is finished in sherry casks. This process creates a rich and complex whiskey with notes of dark fruit, oak, and spice.” – Heaven’s Door

 

Some things about that statement don’t sit well with me. Refuge was distilled in Canada. Heaven’s Door Distillery is in Pleasureville, Kentucky, and does not have a sister distillery in Canada. So, I say with complete confidence that this is sourced whisky.

 

I’m positive that Heaven’s Door has lawyers who have carefully crafted the words, so I won’t say that they’re being dishonest about Refuge’s origin, but it is relying heavily on marketing-speak. I simply don’t like the implication that they distilled this.

 

In the United States, a Straight designation means it is at least two years old and distilled from a mash of cereal grains, distilled at no more than 80% ABV, barrelled at no more than 62.5% ABV, and free of coloring, flavoring, or additives.

 

In Canada, Straight has a completely different meaning. It refers to not being generally blended with grain neutral spirits (GNS), while being mostly distilled from a single grain and retaining its characteristics. It has nothing to do with a whisky’s age.

 

Refuge is one of four core whiskies released by Heaven’s Door: the others are Ascension, Revival, and Revelation. Ascension is a blend of two Bourbons, one of which was actually distilled by Heaven’s Door; Revival is a Tennessee Straight Bourbon; and Revelation is Double Barrel American whiskey. On a side note, you can purchase a 200ml Refuge/Revival/Revelation set from the distillery’s website. If you are curious about Ascension, I reviewed it in 2024.

 

So, forgetting their wordsmithing, is Refuge any good? Let’s #DrinkCurious and find out!

 

• Whiskey Type: Canadian Whisky
• Distiller: Undisclosed
• Age: 6 years
• Mashbill: 100% rye
• Cooperage: Undisclosed, then finished in Amontillado Sherry oak casks for around 6 months
• Alcohol Content: 46% ABV (92°)
• Price per 750mL: $69.99

 

Appearance: I used a Glencairn glass to explore this whisky neat. It was the color of butterscotch; a medium rim discharged uniformly spaced, slower, modest tears.

 

Nose: While patiently waiting my usual 15 minutes, the air in my whiskey library smelled like buttered toffee. Once I was ready to engage the aroma, my olfactory sense plucked toffee, dates, dark raisins, leather, and tobacco. I drew the air through my lips and found buttered toffee.

 

Palate: I took my first sip, revealing a light yet creamy texture with a definitive burn. There was a strange palate shock that I can’t begin to describe. I set it down for another 5 minutes. When I retried it, it tasted citrusy, but most of the heat had dissipated.

 

With my third sip, I found flavors of hazelnuts, roasted almonds, and an herbal quality on the front of my palate. The middle featured buttered toffee, leather, and bold lemon zest. I found freshly-shredded tobacco, mild clove, and oak on the back.

 

Finish: Hazelnuts, tobacco, leather, and oak remained. Lemon zest fought for the spotlight. The level finish was incredibly short, lasting only 31 seconds.

 

Bottle, Bar, or Bust: Let’s start by saying that Heaven’s Door Refuge will be one of those truly polarizing whiskies; there is a funk and weirdness that some will find off-putting; others will find it fascinating. It definitely needs time to breathe; it will perform like a hot mess if you sip it too early.

 

Let it rest, and you’ll find it is a far easier, more palatable experience, where the herbs are tamed, sweet notes come from the depths, and spices remind you it is a 100% rye distillate. It is, without a doubt, unusual.

 

Would I buy Refuge again? While, for the most part, I liked it, at the same time, I can’t imagine saying to myself, “You know what I’m in the mood for? That intensely citrusy, sherried Canadian Rye from Heaven’s Door.” Couple that with how polarizing a pour it is, and you’ll agree that my Bar rating is well-deserved. Cheers!

 

 

My Simple, Easy-to-Understand Rating System

• Bottle = Buy It
• Bar = Try It
• Bust = Leave It

 

Whiskeyfellow encourages you to enjoy your whiskey as you see fit, but begs you to do so responsibly.