Heaven Hill Double Mash Bottled-in-Bond Bourbon Review

 

Let me tell you about Heaven Hill Distillery. Founded in 1935 by a group of investors, including the Shapira family and distiller Joseph L. Beam, the distillery was originally called Old Heaven Hill Springs. The Bardstown, Kentucky, distillery produced Bourbon, and its business model was that of a bulk whiskey manufacturer.

 

In 1957, Heaven Hill introduced its flagship Bourbon called Evan Williams, and in 1986, it launched Elijah Craig. Then, on November 7, 2016, over 90,000 barrels of aging whiskey were destroyed in what was described as a river of fire. A two-mile-long stretch of river was ablaze, and witnesses saw barrels launch into the sky as they exploded!

 

While Heaven Hill was nearly destroyed, other distilleries, such as those owned by Brown-Forman and Jim Beam, stepped up and assisted with production to help Heaven Hill recover. Heaven Hill purchased and retrofitted DSP-KY-1, the Bernheim Distillery in Louisville, from Diageo in 1999. Even today, that’s where most of what Heaven Hill ferments, mashes, and distills its whiskeys. The Bardstown campus primarily handles aging, bottling, and shipping.

 

Now, I’d like to take you back to Joseph L. Beam. After the Shapira family purchased the outstanding stock from its investors, they kept Joseph as the master distiller, along with his son, Harry. And, ever since, there’s been a Beam in charge of distilling for Heaven Hill! After Harry came Earl, son of Park Beam (Jim Beam’s brother), followed by Parker and his son, Craig. That was until 2019, when Conor O’Driscoll took the helm.

 

Currently, Heaven Hill has more than two million barrels aging in its warehouses throughout Nelson and Jefferson Counties. Those supply a plethora of familiar brands such as Widow Jane, Old Fitzgerald, Larceny, Mellow Corn, Henry McKenna, and Heaven Hill.

 

That, of course, brings us to the subject of today’s review: Heaven Hill Double Mash Bottled-in-Bond Bourbon.

 

“At Heaven Hill, innovation begins with a deep respect for tradition. Double Mash is a reflection of our understanding of both Bourbon making and the Bottled-in-Bond standards that have defined quality American whiskey for more than a century. By bringing together our traditional and Wheated Bourbon mashbills, we’ve created a first-of-its-kind Bottled-in-Bond Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey that delivers a distinctively different tasting experience while remaining true to the craftsmanship and authenticity that defines Heaven Hill.” – Conor O’Driscoll, Master Distiller

 

But what is Bottled-in-Bond? The Bottled-in-Bond Act of 1897 was the first federal consumer protection law passed in the United States, enacted unanimously by Congress and signed into law by President Grover Cleveland. It states that any distilled spirit that carries a Bottled in Bond (or Bonded) label must adhere to strict standards:

• It must be a complete product of the United States
• It must be composed of the same type of spirit (whiskey, brandy, gin, etc.)
• It must be distilled by a single distiller in a single distilling season (January to June or July to December)
• It must be packaged at exactly 100° (50% ABV)
• It must be aged at least four years in a government-bonded warehouse (hence, the bonded part of the term)
• If the spirit is bottled by someone other than the distiller, it must state the name of the distiller
• It can be filtered, and it can use water to be proofed to 100°, but nothing else can be added

This law was necessary because bad people looking to stretch their dollars did terrible things to whiskey. They would add things to it—bad things. Things like tobacco spit, old coffee, and even turpentine, and unsuspecting folks were getting sick and even dying!

 

The Double Mash is a blend of Heaven Hill’s standard 78% corn, 10% rye, and 12% malted barley Bourbon and its Wheated 68% corn, 20% wheat, and 12% malted barley mashbills. They aged for 9 years in a bonded warehouse and were packaged at the required 50% ABV (100°). A 750mL is available this month at a suggested price of $49.99 and is enjoying a national rollout, albeit with limited quantities.

 

Thankfully, this #DrinkCurious opportunity came about via Heaven Hill, who provided me with a sample in exchange for my no-strings-attached, honest review. Let’s discover how this one tastes, shall we?

courtesy of Heaven Hill

 

• Whiskey Type: Bottled-in-Bond Bourbon
• Distiller: Heaven Hill
• Age: 9 years
• Mashbill: A blend of 78% corn, 10% rye, and 12% malted barley, with 68% corn, 20% wheat, and 12% malted barley
• Cooperage: New, 53-gallon charred oak barrels
• Alcohol Content: 50% ABV (100°)
• Price per 750mL: $49.99

 

Appearance: I poured this Bourbon into my Glencairn glass to explore neat. The topaz color was enchanting, and the liquid formed a medium rim which, in turn, discharged a curtain of thick, wavy tears.

 

Nose: I left Double Mash alone to breathe for 15 minutes before engaging with the aroma, which included notes of caramel, toffee, leather, honey, orange peel, mild cinnamon, and oak. Drawing the air into my mouth exposed me to the taste of freshly-shredded tobacco.

 

Palate: The first sip revealed a thick, creamy texture and a punch of marmalade and leather. The second let me discern flavors of honey, marmalade, and caramel on the front. My mid-palate plucked shredded tobacco, leather, and roasted almonds, while the back featured white pepper, oak, and nutmeg.

 

Finish: The finish initially was gentle, then quickly ramped in intensity, with white pepper, oak, and allspice dominating. Yet marmalade, vanilla, and leather unleashed a ton of energy while attempting to subdue the spices. Everything hit a crescendo at 58 seconds, then slowly receded until 1:43, making it a long, memorable duration.

 

Bottle, Bar, or Bust: I make no secret that I’m a huge Elijah Craig fanboy. I also keep a bottle of Evan Williams Bottled-in-Bond as a staple of my whiskey library. Heaven Hill Double Mash Bottled-in-Bond Bourbon falls somewhere in between, which seems weird on its face until you take into account how nutty and almost wheater-like the latter is.

 

There is a lot to appreciate about Heaven Hill Double Mash. It is flavorful; it retains the classic, expected Bourbon flavors and the soft, creamy wheater mouthfeel. The marmalade was a huge bonus. I loved everything about this whiskey from the nose to the finish. It is fairly priced and, at 9 years old and 100°, could be considered a bargain. Of course it deserves my Bottle rating. Cheers!

 

 

My Simple, Easy-to-Understand Rating System

• Bottle = Buy It
• Bar = Try It
• Bust = Leave It

 

Whiskeyfellow encourages you to enjoy your whiskey as you see fit, but begs you to do so responsibly.