Malting is a disappearing art form. Wait a second – What’s malting?
Malting is taking raw barley, steeping it in water, and allowing it to germinate on a malting floor. The malting house can manually turn the barley by hand with a rake, or it can be automated. After that, the goal is to stop further germination by drying it, which is called kilning. Some malting houses achieve the desired heat levels by burning peat, while others use warm air in the kiln. Once the barley dries, the following process is called deculming, which involves stripping the formed rootlets (or culms).
Most distilleries that made malt whiskey used to have their own malting floors. Now, many of those distilleries outsource that work.
Root Shoot Malting is a Loveland, Colorado-based malthouse founded in 2016. It sits on the Olander family farm and is run by 5th-generation farmers Todd and Steve Olander. It supplies corn, wheat, barley, rye, and non-GMO corn to craft brewers and distillers. It is also the first craft malthouse in the United States to operate the German-made Kasper Schultz malting system.
“100% Colorado, 100% Root Shoot. The grain in [our] American Single Malt Whiskey spends its entire lifespan on our farm, from sprouting seed to finished malt. For us, ‘locally grown’ means right outside our malthouse doors, where weekly field walks and daily observations allow us to ensure our plants are pampered, productive, and properly loved. Under the watchful eye of the Olander family, our tiny grains receive the attention and care to grow into something great.” – Root Shoot Spirits
Three years ago, Root Shoot Spirits, a division of Root Shoot Malting, released its first locally sourced whiskey called Root Shoot Whiskey. I reviewed that inaugural Bottled-in-Bond American Single Malt, and it earned every bit of my Bottle rating.
However, that was a 4-year-old pot-distilled whiskey. Root Shoot’s newest limited release is its first-ever 6-Year Small Batch Bottled-in-Bond American Single Malt Whiskey. It’s also Bottled-in-Bond, meaning it is packaged at 50% ABV (100°). The remaining requirements include distillation by a single distiller at a single distillery during a single distillery season (either January to June or July to December). A 750mL package has a suggested price of $75.00.
Root Shoot chose to age this single malt in new, charred oak barrels. It didn’t have to, as American Single Malt regulations allow for the use of new or vintage cooperage no larger than 700 liters.
We’ll also delve into another Root Shoot limited release: Peach-Brandy Cask Finished American Single Malt Whiskey. It’s also made from 100% malted barley straight from the farm, then finished in Palisade Peach Brandy barrels from Peach Street Distillers. It rested 4 years in new, charred oak before going through a year-long finishing cycle. Packaged at 49% ABV (98°), it comes in 480–750mL bottles and is suggested at $70.00.
Root Shoot Spirits currently has retail space in Colorado and Montana; however, you can always buy it from its online store. Before you jump the gun, let’s #DrinkCurious and discover how these whiskeys taste. We can do that because Root Shoot Spirits kindly sent me a sample of each in exchange for my no-strings-attached, honest review.
Note: To avoid repetition, I used a fresh Glencairn glass for each and let the whiskeys acclimate for 15 minutes.
6-Year Small Batch Bottled-in-Bond American Single Malt Whiskey
Courtesy of Root Shoot Spirits
- Whiskey Type: American Single Malt
- Distiller: Root Shoot Spirits
- Age: 6 years
- Mashbill: 100% malted barley
- Cooperage: New, 53-gallon medium-char American oak barrels
- Alcohol Content: 50% ABV (100°)
- Price per 750mL: $70.00
Appearance: The whiskey had a bright, brassy look and formed a thick rim with randomly spaced, slow, husky tears.
Nose: As I began my sniffing journey, I smelled toffee, roasted almonds, hazelnuts, cherries, and fresh leather. When I drew the air into my mouth, I tasted rich toffee.
Palate: I took my first sip and encountered a thin, oily texture and a palate shock of smoked coffee. Next, I found toffee, cherries, and baked apples on the front. Old leather, nutmeg, and roasted almonds hit my mid-palate, while coffee, smoked oak, and cocoa nibs controlled the back.
Finish: By the time I swallowed, the smoked oak component was emboldened. Baked apples, cocoa, coffee, toffee, and leather played supporting roles. It was even-keeled, with the smoked oak being the last to leave. The other flavors faded at 45 seconds, while the full duration lasted 1:43, which felt long.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: When I mention smoky notes, it is easy to assume I’m talking about peat. While I’m a major peat-head, what I tasted today was not peaty. And yet, while that’s not the same sensation, it did savor it nonetheless.
Root Shoot’s 6-Year Small Batch Bottled-in-Bond American Single Malt Whiskey was delightfully well-balanced while retaining plenty of character. It drank very close to its stated proof and would absolutely appeal to those who enjoy Highland Scotch whiskies.
If you can’t tell, I loved it. I wish I had more. It completely deserves my Bottle rating.
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Peach-Brandy Cask Finished American Single Malt Whiskey
Courtesy of Root Shoot Spirits
- Whiskey Type: American Single Malt
- Distiller: Root Shoot Spirits
- Age: 4 years
- Mashbill: 100% malted barley
- Cooperage: Aged in new, 53-gallon, medium-char American oak barrels, then finished for a year in Palisade Peach Brandy barrels from Peach Street Distillers
- Alcohol Content: 49% ABV (98°)
- Price per 750mL: $70.00
- 480 bottles available
Appearance: The peach single malt had a rustic appearance; somewhere between amber and sienna. A medium rim discharged a curtain of wavy tears that couldn’t get back down to the pool quickly enough.
Nose: Even while I was waiting for the whiskey to oxidize properly, the air in my whiskey library was filled with the smell of stewed peaches. Once that period passed, my nose picked up peaches and cream, along with toffee, nutmeg, and leather. I inhaled through my lips and experienced a sensation of stewed peaches.
Palate: The first sip revealed a soft, creamy texture and an unexpected palate shock of dark roasted coffee. The second let me taste vanilla cream, powdered cocoa, and nutmeg on the front. My mid-palate found notes of fresh leather, toffee, and marzipan. The back offered flavors of dark roasted coffee, oak, and a smidge of fennel.
Finish: Plenty of spice followed, with dry oak, nutmeg, coffee, fennel, cocoa, and clove. It was long and drawn out; at 1:14, a gentle kiss of peach appeared, then was subdued again by the ancient oak. The overall duration was 1:56.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: One of my least favorite fruits is the humble peach. It is mostly a texture issue rather than its flavor. However, in my mind’s eye, I can feel that texture every time that I taste peaches.
The weird thing is that while I smelled it, my palate failed to pick up anything like that. Instead, the whiskey’s character seemed almost unadulterated. That’s something that often gets lost with long finishing cycles, and I found this sipping session pleasantly surprising.
Once I got past the lack of peach influence in my mouth and throat, I could focus on the imparted flavors. It wasn’t until the absolute end of the finish that there was a reminder that it was finished in peach brandy casks.
I love being thrown for a loop, and Root Shoot’s Peach-Brandy Cask Finished American Single Malt Whiskey did exactly that. It is fairly priced, and if you can find one, you should buy a Bottle.
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Final Thoughts: I’m still curious about how you can age a whiskey in peach Brandy casks for a year and have it not taste like peaches. I’m not upset by it, just surprised.
Since both are similarly priced, the smoky influence of the 6-year cinched the deal for me as to which was the more attractive of the two. But, either way, you can’t go wrong. Cheers!
My Simple, Easy-to-Understand Rating System
- Bottle = Buy It
- Bar = Try It
- Bust = Leave It
Whiskeyfellow encourages you to enjoy your whiskey as you see fit, but begs you to do so responsibly.
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