Last
April, I had the opportunity to review three whiskeys from Middle West Spirits out
of Columbus, Ohio. They consisted of a Pumpernickel Rye, a Wheated Bourbon, and
a Straight Wheat whiskey. I was a fan of the Bourbon and Wheat whiskeys but
didn’t overly enjoy the Rye.
When
Middle West Spirits approached me to review its new Double Cask Collection, it piqued my interest. The goal for the
distillery was to take these expressions and marry them with something else to
highlight the terroir of both casks used in each expression.
“We were founded in 2008, and opened our distillery for commercial production in 2010. Building on four generations of distilling traditions, we added our own deep experience in marketing and manufacturing, and focused on elevating the distinctive flavors of the Ohio River Valley. Our artisan spirits honor our roots; and reflect our originality as makers, our integrity as producers, and our passion for the craft of producing spirits from grain to glass.” – Middle West Spirits
The
Bourbon was finished in solera sherry casks, the Wheat was finished in Oloroso
sherry casks, and the Rye was finished in Port pipes. All of these should give
a new dimension to each of the originals.
Middle West Spirits is distributed in 32 states and offers direct-to-consumer sales from its website.
Before
I get started, I’d like to thank Middle West Spirits for providing samples in
exchange for my no-strings-attached, honest reviews. Now, let’s #DrinkCurious
and learn more.
Up
first is the Sherry Cask Finished Bourbon. It started with a mash of sweet yellow corn, Ohio soft winter wheat, and two-row barley, then spent six
years in Ohio-sourced heavy-toasted American white oak cooperage before being
transferred to sun-blackened Spanish solera sherry butts for finishing. It is
packaged at 97.25°, and you can expect to pay about $99.00 for a 750ml bottle.
Appearance: Poured neat in my Glencairn glass, this
Bourbon presented as the color of burnt umber. It left a medium rim which
generated sticky, slow tears.
Nose: The sherry influence was evident. Aromas of
raisin, chocolate, date, and pipe tobacco tickled my nostrils. Date rolled
across my tongue when I took the air into my mouth.
Palate: A silky, full-bodied mouthfeel led to raisin,
plum, and dried apricot on the front. The middle was a blend of
chocolate-covered cherries, dates, and nutmeg. Then, I tasted honey, oak,
clove, and black pepper on the back.
Finish: Initially short, additional sips transformed
that to very long and warming. Chocolate, cherry, plum, honey, tobacco, and
clove stuck to my tongue and throat.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: My first taste made me say, “Wow,” and that
didn’t change after my second or third (or fourth). This was a very impressive
Bourbon with a ton of flavor. To me, it is a great way to start the adventure
of the Double Cask Collection and earned every bit of my Bottle recommendation.
◊◊◊◊◊
Second
up is Ported Pumpernickel Rye. If you’re like me, when you see
“Pumpernickel Rye,” you wonder if anyone else has done that. There are a couple;
it just isn’t widely used. Made from a mash of dark pumpernickel rye, sweet yellow
corn, Ohio soft winter wheat, and two-row barley, the distillate aged six years
in new, charred American white oak barrels. The finishing barrels were French
Tawny Port casks. It is
packaged at 99.5°, and you can expect to pay about $99.00 for a 750ml bottle. On a side note, my whiskey sample leaked in
transit, and the label was damaged.
Appearance: Served neat in my Glencairn glass, this
whiskey featured a red mahogany color. It formed a thin rim and sticky
droplets.
Nose: The first thing I smelled was leather,
followed by old oak, plum, and dried cherry. Overall, the nose was very
understated. When I pulled the vapor in my mouth, I tasted plum.
Palate: An oily, dry mouthfeel led to nutmeg, cherry,
and vanilla on front. I listed nutmeg first because that was the most potent
flavor. As it approached the middle, a combination of chocolate and
pumpernickel bread gave way to leather, dry oak, and cinnamon on the back.
Finish: Medium in length and relatively dry, it had
pucker power. Old leather, rye spice, cinnamon powder, cherry, and plum created
an old-world finish.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: As I stated in my introduction, I wasn’t a
fan of the Pumpernickel Rye. I can safely say that a few more years in wood
combined with the tawny port changed my mind. Like the original, there were no
bold flavors, but in this case, it worked well, and I enjoyed it. Would I pay $99.00 for it? I’m not entirely
convinced. Were it $30.00 less, I’d jump all over this. For now, I’m granting a
Bar rating.
◊◊◊◊◊
The
final entry is the Oloroso Wheat Whiskey. Made from a mash of Ohio-grown red soft
winter wheat, the distillate aged five years in new, charred American white oak
barrels. The finishing barrels were Oloroso sherry butts. It is packaged at 100°, and you
can expect to pay about $99.00 for a 750ml bottle.
Appearance: Drank neat from my Glencairn glass, this wheat
whiskey was a dark, brassy amber. It created a medium rim that made thick,
syrupy legs.
Nose: The
first thing that I smelled was pecan and roasted almond. It started before I
got the glass anywhere near my face. Stone fruits aromas such as cherry and
plum were also present. Finally, dark chocolate made a brief appearance. When I
drew the air through my lips, vanilla crossed my mouth with slight, bitter oak.
Palate: The
mouthfeel was creamy. The first sip was unpleasant, but as I always say, never
judge anything on that first one. That was proven true as the second was more
(pardon the pun) palatable. I found roasted coffee, dark chocolate, and vanilla
on the front. The middle featured cocoa powder and nutmeg, while the back had dry
oak, clove, and roasted almond flavors.
Finish: I discovered a long finish that warmed my
mouth and throat. Dry oak, roasted coffee, dark chocolate, nutmeg, and cocoa
powder stuck around.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: I understand what Middle West Spirits wanted
to accomplish here, and I commend it. It may have been the most unusual wheat
whiskey that I’ve come across. It was flavorful and quite pleasant. Saying that
this one isn’t worth $99.00 to me, and that equals a Bar rating.
Final
Thoughts: My favorite was the Sherry Cask Bourbon Finish of the three, and
it wasn’t even close. The real contest was between the Ported Pumpernickel Rye
and the Oloroso Wheat Whiskey. The Ported Pumpernickel Rye wound up being my
second favorite. There wasn’t much wiggle room between the Rye and Wheat
whiskeys. Cheers!
My Simple, Easy to
Understand Rating System
- Bottle = Buy It
- Bar = Try It
- Bust = Leave It
Whiskeyfellow encourages
you to enjoy your whiskey as you see fit but begs you do so responsibly.
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