It
isn’t often that I get to sip older Scotch whiskies. When I do, it is usually due
to the generosity of friends who, like all good whisky ambassadors, believe
that whisky is meant for sharing, and they make that happen.
Once
a year, The GlenDronach rolls out a batch of its Scotches referred to as
The Cask Bottlings. These aren’t your average Highland whiskies; instead,
these tend to fall into the ancient category.
They’re all single malts, naturally colored and non-chill filtered, and the
distillery is renowned for its use of high-quality Spanish sherry casks in the
aging process. The 2022 release is referred to as Batch 19.
“The GlenDronach Cask Bottling Batch 19 offers an insight into our sherry cask maturation history and the exceptional quality of the casks we have at The GlenDronach. I have personally chosen these casks to celebrate and share the very best of the distillery’s character. Each represents the rich selection of barrels, Hogsheads, Puncheons and Butts that have been used throughout The GlenDronach’s history. This release reflects our enduring commitment to crafting the most exceptional, richly sherried Single Malts representative of The GlenDronach’s rare dedication to its craft, embodied in every expression.” – Dr. Rachel Barrie, Master Blender
Batch
19 consists of three different casks:
Cask 5080 (1994), Cask 6052 (1992), and Cask 217 (1992).
I
want to thank The GlenDronach for providing me samples of the three in exchange
for no-strings-attached, honest reviews. Now, it is time to #DrinkCurious.
First
up is Cask 5080. Aged 27 years, this single malt Scotch rested in a
former Oloroso sherry puncheon. It yielded 667 bottles packaged at 54.3% ABV
(108.6°). While you’ll find this on some store shelves in AZ, CO, DE, DC, IL, FL, MD, MN, MD, NV, and SC, you should expect to spend at least $600.00.
Appearance: Poured
neat in my Glencairn glass, Cask 5080 looked like burnt umber. A medium-thick
rim formed long, wide legs.
Nose: A
fruity aroma of fig, raisin, date, cranberry, and vanilla
cream started the journey. It was joined by toasted walnut, and when I drew the
vapor into my mouth, a wave of cherry vanilla caressed my tongue.
Palate: The
silky texture featured fig, black cherry, and caramel on the front of my
palate, while sweet pipe tobacco, orange zest, and cherry cola were on the
middle. The back offered old oak, clove, and dark chocolate.
Finish: Pipe tobacco, dark chocolate, fig, clove, and
dry oak remained for a long, lingering finish.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: Cask 5080 is, in a word, stunning. The nose was enticing, the mouthfeel rich, and the
combination of flavors complimented one another as if they were designed to do
so. I can’t help but give it a Bottle
rating.
Adding
another year, the next Scotch is Cask 6052. I’m assuming it aged a few
months shy of 28 years in a former Pedro
Ximénez sherry puncheon. There are 658 bottles available at
50.8% ABV (101.6°), and the suggested retail is $720.00. Availability is limited to CA, ID, IN, KY, LA, NM, NC, ND, NE, MT, OH, OK, OR, TX, UT, WA, and WY.
Appearance: A deep,
caramel color filled my Glencairn glass. It took an effort to create an
ultra-thin rim. It generated sticky legs that crawled back to the pool of
whisky.
Nose: I found
cherry, plum, fig, strawberry, and red grape entwined with dark chocolate and
oak. English toffee rolled across my tongue when I inhaled through my lips.
Palate: A
medium-weight, silky mouthfeel released flavors of sweet vanilla, orange, and
apricot on the front of my palate. Espresso and tobacco leaf fell on the
middle, while dark chocolate, oak, and a kiss of caramel were on the back.
Finish: French
oak, dark chocolate, and espresso remained for a long, steady finish.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: While the nose was fruity, the palate was far
less so. The spice notes dominated. I frankly didn’t expect that from a PX cask
– the sweeter notes were anticipated. I don’t mean to imply that I didn’t enjoy
Cask 6052; I was merely caught off-guard. Age allowed the spiciness to be mellow,
keeping it from becoming a punch. I can see this whisky being particularly
attractive to fans of mature American rye whiskeys (and I fall into that
category). A Bottle rating is
warranted.
The
final whisky is the oldest: Cask 217. It spent a whopping 29 years in an
Oloroso sherry butt. Only 383 bottles were filled, and as you can imagine, its
distribution is much smaller. GA, MA, NY, and NJ were the handful that can sell it for the suggested
$820.00 price. You’re getting 55.4% ABV (110.8°) for that investment.
Appearance: Served
neat in my Glencairn glass, Cask 217 looked like maple syrup. Not the artificial
stuff you buy at the grocery store, but real syrup from places like Vermont.
The thick rim made husky legs.
Nose: A bouquet of plum, raisin, leather, and fudge
tickled my olfactory sense. Plum plowed through as I pulled the air into my
mouth.
Palate: Whereas
the previous two whiskies had silky textures, Cask 217 was oily. The
uncomplicated palate started with dark chocolate and nutmeg on the front. The
middle featured rum raisin and black cherry. The back was an interesting blend
of leather, oak, and fresh ginger.
Finish: Remember the fudge from the nose? That came
out from nowhere like an angry bull let loose for San Fermin. There were oak
tannins, nutmeg, old leather, and cherry mixed with that fudge.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: I appreciate how simple the palate of this
Scotch was. That finish was mind-blowing. I happily convey a Bottle rating for the finish alone.
Final
Thoughts: For the
three whiskies of Batch 19, my recommendations purposefully ignored price. Why?
Because I don’t purchase whiskies in this price range. That doesn’t mean you
(or someone you know) don’t. Experiencing something the caliber of Batch 19 is
a rare opportunity, and the only thing I took into account were the aromas,
flavors, and finish.
Of the three, my favorite pour was Cask 5080, which happened to be the youngest. The second was the elderly Cask 217, and the third was, of course, Cask 6052. Cheers!
My Simple, Easy to
Understand Rating System
- Bottle = Buy It
- Bar = Try It
- Bust = Leave It
Whiskeyfellow encourages
you to enjoy your whiskey as you see fit but begs you do so responsibly.
Nice to read great reviews of fantastic whiskies!
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