At the end of 2020, Barton 1792 Distillery released its first
expressions of Thomas S. Moore Bourbons. It featured “extended” cask
finished whiskeys, meaning instead of barrel-finishing for weeks or months,
Thomas S. Moore Bourbons are finished for years.
But
wait, what’s finishing mean? When you
take a fully-matured whiskey, remove it from the barrel it was aged in, and
transfer the contents to another barrel, that additional aging is finishing.
That finishing barrel could be brand
new, or it could have contained pretty much anything else, including other
whiskeys, Tobasco sauce, coffee beans, beer, etc. Just let your mind go wild.
In
late 2020, Thomas S. Moore’s finishes included Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon,
and Port casks. You can read all about them in my review from January 2021.
In
2022, second releases consist of Madiera, Merlot, Sherry, and Cognac casks,
which we’ll explore today. Each expression begins with the high-rye recipe,
aged between five and six years in new, charred oak barrels.
“This second Thomas S. Moore release really reinforces that the extended aging is quite significant. What we are seeing are complex, fuller textures being developed. Savory flavors and aromas are unquestionably enhanced and continue to develop in the secondary cask in ways that are very different from the primary barrel aging. The result is an elevated, premium collection unlike any other.” – Danny Kahn, Master Distiller
Each
finish is packaged at a different proof, but all are available in 750ml bottles
for $69.99 each. Before I get started on the tasting notes and ratings, I thank
Barton 1792 for providing me with samples of all four in exchange for
no-strings-attached, honest reviews.
And
now, let’s #DrinkCurious!
The Madiera Finish will be the first of the four. This Bourbon was transferred to the Madiera casks, where it mingled between two and four years with the wine-soaked wood. It is packaged at 96.5°.
Appearance: Poured
neat in my Glencairn glass, the Madiera finish presented as deep caramel. A
medium-to-thick rim released slow, sticky legs that eventually fell back to the
pool.
Nose: An exciting
aroma of cedar, oak, dry tobacco, lemon peel, and raisin started the show, and
when I inhaled through my mouth, only the tobacco came through.
Palate: I found the texture both oily and airy.
Flavors of plum, lemon zest, and sweet corn were on the front, and as the
liquid moved to the middle, I tasted leather, tobacco, and raisin. On the back,
the raisin blended with charred oak and green peppercorn.
Finish: The medium finish offered more green
peppercorn, joined by leather, dry tobacco, clove, oak, and a touch of lemon
zest.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: While I liked the Madeira finished Bourbon, something
was missing from it that I just can’t put my palate on aside from a lack of
cohesiveness. I could have been looking for more nut and caramel flavors
representative of the fortified wine. Regardless, for $69.99, I believe this is
one to try at a Bar before committing to the investment.
Second in line is the Merlot Finish Bourbon, which rested between two and four years in the Merlot wine cask before being diluted to 93.3°.
Appearance: The
Merlot finished Bourbon was more of an orange amber than I would have
anticipated in my Glencairn glass. It formed a medium-thick rim that yielded
fast legs.
Nose: Thick,
rich caramel, vanilla, and heavier black cherry and ripe plum notes lulled me
to a daydream. I could be happy just sniffing without ever having to taste it;
the nose was heavenly. Raspberry and blackberry caressed my tongue when I
pulled the air into my mouth.
Palate: The
mouthfeel was light and crisp, leading to cherries and plums. The middle
featured a single note of caramel, while the back had flavors of dry oak,
tobacco, and black pepper.
Finish: My mind drifted off as I was reminiscing
about the nose, and when I started to pay attention, black cherry and vanilla
brought me back to reality. Black pepper and dry oak offered some pucker power.
Medium in length, it blew a kiss of caramel at the end.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: I truly enjoyed the Merlot finish, everything
from the nosing to the final caramel kiss. I don’t often get lost in thought, but
this Bourbon made me fantasize about sweet orchard fruits. The palate wasn’t
complex, but what was there was enchanting. I’d rate this one a Bottle without any hesitation.
Next up is the Sherry Finish. What type of Sherry casks were selected is not disclosed. However, I’d suspect it to be Oloroso per my notes below. The finishing period was between one and four years and packaged at 98.7°.
Appearance: The
lovely chestnut color was eye-catching in my Glencairn glass. A medium rim led
to fast, thick legs, which crashed back to the pool.
Nose: An
aroma comprised of fig, prune, apricot, pecan, almond, and vanilla teased my
olfactory sense. As I breathed it into my mouth, the fig continued.
Palate: The
mouthfeel was soft and creamy. At the front of my palate, I picked out dark
chocolate, toffee, and almond, while the middle featured raisin, dried cherry,
and plum. The back offered tobacco leaf, dry oak, pecan, and hazelnut.
Finish: A short-to-medium finish left behind flavors
of tobacco leaf, dry oak, nuts, chocolate, and raisins.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: For the
most part, I savor sherry-bomb whiskeys, especially Scotch. And, the Sherry
finish version came darned close to some interior Highland whiskies aged in Sherry
casks. Did I enjoy this? Yes. Would I pay $69.99 for it? I’m not convinced.
Therefore, I’ll give this one a Bar
rating.
The final expression is a Cognac finish. Like the Sherry finish, Barton 1792 doesn’t share what kind of Cognac casks were selected; however, it took between two and four years before they were deemed complete and offered at 93.4°.
Appearance: This
Bourbon appeared as the color of roasted almonds. It is, by far, the lightest brown
of the four. A thick rim with slow, jagged tears fell down the wall of my
Glencairn glass.
Nose: The
smells of lime, lemon, and orange zests wafted out, then morphed to cherry,
apricot, and raisin. I also experienced floral notes, possibly from the rye
content. A blast of apricot crossed my tongue as I drew the air into my mouth.
Palate: A heavy, very creamy texture delivered
vanilla, orange zest, lemon zest, and sweet apricot to the front of my palate.
As it moved across my tongue, I tasted almond and mushroom on the middle, while
the back became spicy with dry oak, black pepper, and clove.
Finish: The boldest finish of the four belonged to
this Cognac-finished Bourbon (and, frankly, expected). It wasn’t the longest,
but what it brought to the table was impressive. Vanilla, mushroom, and dry oak
accompanied black pepper, clove, and old leather.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: I’ve
had many Cognac-finished whiskeys before, and there were some familiar notes on
the nose and palate. They’re also similarly priced. This one was delicious, and
the best part, in my opinion, is that bold finish. I’d drop $69.99 on it and recommend
a Bottle rating.
Final Thoughts: If you’re looking for a Bourbon-tasting Bourbon, none of these Thomas S. Moore expressions will satisfy you. Most of the Bourbon characteristics have been “finished out” during the extended contact with the various vintage barrels. As I alluded to in the Sherry finish review, they’re more of a Scotch-drinker’s Bourbon. For me, that’s not a bad thing – I love all types of Scotch. But if you’re not into Speyside and Highland whiskies, these may be too much for you. If asked to state my favorite, it would be the Merlot finish. Cheers!
My Simple, Easy to
Understand Rating System
- Bottle = Buy It
- Bar = Try It
- Bust = Leave It
Whiskeyfellow encourages
you to enjoy your whiskey as you see fit but begs you do so responsibly.
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