I
get on whiskey kicks. Sometimes, it’ll be Bourbon and Rye. Other times, it could
be Scotch or Irish. Lately, I seem to hone in on American Single Malts. I find
the category fascinating because while it is currently undefined, there is a ton
of creativity going into it while lobbyists are trying to have the category
defined legally.
One
of the American Single Malt category players is Whiskey Del Bac. It is
distilled and aged at The Hamilton Distillery in Tucson, Arizona, where
temperature swings can vary 40 degrees in a single day. Whiskey Del Bac also
uses 15-gallon barrels versus the standard 53-gallon used for much of the
American whiskey universe. When you marry those two facts, an accelerated aging
process is achieved.
“Whiskey Del Bac uses the Scottish model of whiskey-making. Made from 100% barley that is malted, mashed, fermented, copper pot distilled, aged and bottled on-site, creating a single malt whiskey portfolio that represents the true character of the American southwest.” – Whiskey Del Bac
A
few weeks ago, I reviewed The
Classic from this distillery. I loved it, and I am not someone who typically
appreciates American whiskey aged in small cooperage.
Today
I’m sipping Dorado. It is similar
to The Classic, except the malting process occurs over a fire using velvet mesquite, a type of tree native
to Southern Arizona, before going through the distillation process. Dorado is
non-chill filtered, naturally colored, and carries no age statement, making it
at least four years old. A 45% ABV (90°), 750ml bottle costs about $60.00.
Although
my bottle was very recently acquired from a friend, Whiskey Del Bac’s website
suggests this is 46% ABV. I ran into the same conflict with The Classic. I
attempted to get clarification from Whiskey Del Bac, but the distillery did not
respond to my request.
Will
Dorado be another winner? The only way to know for sure is to #DrinkCurious.
Let’s get to it, shall we?
Appearance: Poured
neat into my Glencairn glass, Dorado was as orange as amber gets. A medium rim
formed, which released thick, fast legs.
Nose: As you
would imagine, the first smell that hit my nostrils was mesquite smoke.
However, with effort, I also found vanilla, strawberry, and some sort of
citrus. When I pulled the air into my mouth, the citrus revealed itself as
orange peel.
Palate: I encountered a thick, creamy mouthfeel,
while the front of my palate tasted of grilled meats and orange peel. The
middle had notes of berries and vanilla, while the back tasted of leather,
clove, and nutmeg.
Finish: You might wonder where the mesquite went.
Never fear; it was all over the finish and complimented the black pepper, old leather,
and orange peel.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: One
might be wary of grilled meat transitioning to vanilla. If I had read those
notes, I would have wrinkled my nose. Believe it or not, it worked. I was
expecting mesquite on the palate and was surprised it was missing. I poured
myself a second glass to make sure I didn’t misread things, but, no, it was
only regulated to the finish. I found Dorado to be unusual in a good way, I
appreciate what Whiskey Del Bac did with this single malt, and I’m happy to
report it deserves a Bottle rating.
Cheers!
My Simple, Easy to
Understand Rating System
- Bottle = Buy It
- Bar = Try It
- Bust = Leave It
Whiskeyfellow encourages
you to enjoy your whiskey as you see fit but begs you do so responsibly.
Regarding your statement that this whiskey is at least four years old, you misapplied a rule that relates to "straight whiskey" especially bourbon and rye. That is, a straight whiskey must have an age statement if it is less than four years old. Therefore, lack of an age statement implies that it is four years or more. That rule does not apply to a non-straight whiskey or to American single malts which are developing their own rules now. Another site said this whiskey is 12-15 months old. I don't know if that is correct, but a lot of craft single malts are well under 4 years. I am confident this one is younger.
ReplyDeleteAny American whiskey must carry an age statement if it is less than four years.
DeleteI just got a message from a guy who spoke with the distiller of Whiskey Del Bac and he confirmed that they age their whiskey generally between 12 and 15 months. With the desert climate and small barrels, they get ridiculous loss to the angels.
ReplyDeleteOn a separate note, the bottle I just bought says it's 46% abv.