One
of my favorite ways to age whisky is in Pedro Ximénez casks. Don’t get me wrong;
there’s nothing wrong with using virgin oak, former Bourbon barrels, wine, or
other kinds of sherry. There is, however, something magical about how that PX
sherry imparts fruity goodness on the liquid sunshine held within.
Unfortunately, the mere presence of a PX cask
doesn’t translate to great whisky. You need to start with good distillate,
hand-selected cooperage, and a master blender who knows what they are doing.
Who is a reliable candidate to fit that bill?
The GlenDronach.
If you’ve never experienced a whiskey from
The GlenDronach, you’ll want to remedy that situation. Located in the Highlands
region, it was founded in 1826 and is one of the oldest licensed distilleries
in all of Scotland. Its ownership changed hands several times until Allied Distillers mothballed it in
1996. Six years later, it reversed its decision and returned to full production.
In 2005, Chivas Brothers took the
helm for three years until, in 2008, The
BenRiach Distillery Company, Ltd. purchased it, only to sell itself to Brown-Forman in 2016. And that’s when Dr. Rachel Barrie, it's Master Blender,
unleashed her magic.
Today I’m exploring Grandeur Batch 11, a single malt Scotch that sat in both PX and
Oloroso sherry casks for a whopping 28 years.
“The GlenDronach Grandeur is an unparalleled range of the finest aromas and character from masterful Spanish oak sherry cask maturation. A Single Malt of elegant finesse, this expression offers a symphony of sherry aromatics interwoven with dark manuka honey, roasted almond, and walnut. It is intense and full-bodied, as is the signature of The GlenDronach, with a crescendo of black cherry and espresso adorning each mouthful.” – Dr. Rachel Barrie, Master Blender
I don’t have too many
opportunities to experience whiskies approaching three decades, and, on top of
that, one that weighs in at a healthy 48.9% ABV (97.8°). As you can well
imagine, a bottle like that commands an eyebrow-raising price tag. In the case
of Grandeur Batch 11, it is $800.00.
Before I get to the #DrinkCurious part, I thank The
GlenDronach for providing me with a sample in exchange for a
no-strings-attached, honest review.
Appearance: This
elderly Scotch offered a rusty appearance and a heavy rim that stuck like glue.
Thick tears were released, but for whatever reason, the ring remained.
Nose: As the
whisky poured into my glass, a fruity aroma of plum, dark cherry, raisin, and
black currant was already tickling my nostrils. A closer examination provided roasted
almond, cocoa, and leather. Cherry and honey tangoed across my tongue when I
inhaled the vapor through my mouth.
Palate: I found the texture to be thin and oily,
while the front of my palate encountered a punch of black cherry, black
currant, and raisin. When I say punch,
I mean it; there was an impact on my tongue. Midway through, I tasted leather,
dark chocolate, and almond, while the back featured flavors of black pepper,
espresso, and cigar.
Finish: Long and warming, the finish was peppery,
with plum, dark chocolate, cigar, and espresso. I felt it drank a bit above its
stated proof.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: I loved
this Scotch. It was yet another example of Dr. Barrie’s immense talent. The
nose, the palate, the finish; each told me this was a luxurious whisky. All
things being equal, this would capture my Bottle
rating. The elephant in the room is the price: $800 is beyond my and many others' means. But
that shouldn’t discount your chance at a dram of Grandeur Batch 11 if you can
find it at a good whisky bar. Cheers!
My Simple, Easy-to-Understand
Rating System
- Bottle = Buy It
- Bar = Try It
- Bust = Leave It
Whiskeyfellow encourages
you to enjoy your whiskey as you see fit but begs you do so responsibly.
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