During
the summer of 2019, I had an opportunity to taste and review
Devil’s River Bourbon Whiskey. The
brand had been advertising like crazy on social media, which prompted me to
find a pour and see if it was worth it or not. Here is the summation of my review:
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: William Faulkner said, “There is no such thing as bad whiskey. Some whiskey just happens to be better than others.” Yeah, okay, whatever. For me to say that Devil’s River Bourbon is a bad whiskey is an insult to bad whiskey. You will not sin responsibly if you spend $20.00 on it, because this one’s a definite Bust.
Part
of the #DrinkCurious lifestyle is to revisit whiskeys (or brands) you
didn’t like in the past. I’ve done this many times, and my mind is changed
every so often. Everyone deserves a second chance, right? Right.
Today
I’m trying the Devil’s River Bourbon Barrel Strength version. It is the
same mashbill of 75% corn, 21% rye, and 4% malted barley. It rested in #4 new,
charred oak barrels for an indeterminate time and, as such, carries no age
statement. The distiller is still Jus-Made/Southwest Bottling. What Devil’s River does differently is
they proof it down with water from the namesake’s river.
Devil’s River Barrel Strength is bottled
at 117° and retails for $39.99 on its website. It is available in all but 17 states, and as
such, should be pretty easy to get your hands on. Because of my previous
experience, I chose to purchase a 50ml taster at a Minneapolis-area liquor
store.
Proof definitely can make a
difference between good and bad whiskey. The barrel strength version is 27
proof points higher than the original. That’s significant. Will I like this one
better? Let’s find out!
Appearance: A
bright, gold hue of amber, this Bourbon formed a skinny rim and gave up slow
teardrops.
Nose: The first smell I experienced was cinnamon
spice. There was something sweet underneath, almost plum-like, then corn, and,
finally, sawdust. As I drew the air into my mouth, I finally picked up the
vanilla you’d expect in a Bourbon.
Palate: An oily, viscous texture greeted my tongue and
offered sweet flavors of vanilla, caramel, and butterscotch. And that was the
end of anything sweet.
Do you remember as a kid taking toothpicks and soaking them in liquid cinnamon
for a few days? Then, you’d stick one in your mouth, and it would be like fire!
You’d watch your friends try to tough it out, but eventually, it would be too
much to handle. They’d shed a tear or two. That’s the middle.
The back offered only black
pepper and dry oak.
Finish: Long, spicy, and bitter, the finish featured
notes of black pepper, plum, and dry oak.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: It has
been three years since I last tasted Devil’s River. I wasn’t a fan. Additional
proof points did make a difference, but they didn’t improve the experience. I
don’t like to say this about whiskey; I prefer to give some constructive
feedback, but there just isn’t anything nice I can tell, so I won’t. Plain and
simple, this is a Bust. Cheers!
My Simple, Easy-to-Understand Rating System
- Bottle = Buy It
- Bar = Try It
- Bust = Leave It
Whiskeyfellow encourages
you to enjoy your whiskey as you see fit but begs you do so responsibly.
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