Wolfburn Northland, Aurora, Morven, and 2022 Winter Edition Single Malt Scotch Reviews & Tasting Notes
One
of the things that real estate professionals will tell you is there are only
three things that matter: location, location, and location.
Suppose you go as far north as possible on the Scottish mainland. In that case,
you’ll wind up at Thurso in the Highlands region, and you’ll be staring
at a distillery called Wolfburn.
Wolfburn
states it is both the first and last distillery on the mainland. If that
sounds confusing, don’t worry; it was also to me.
Founded
in 1821 by William
Smith, the Wolfburn distillery remained in
the family until 1837, when it was shuttered. It was reopened by David Smith
in 1852, but it only lasted a year before the distillery was again abandoned. Some
stories suggest someone produced whisky there in the 1860s, but it closed for
good and subsequently fell into disrepair. In the 1870s, the distillery was in
ruins, and nobody thought much of it.
“In May 2011 one of our team went to locate the site of the old Wolfburn Distillery in Thurso, Caithness. After 150 years of neglect what we found was a barely discernible pile of stones, but one thing remained from the yesteryears of Wolfburn distillery; the water. The cold clear waters that fed the mash tun and stills all those years ago were still flowing just as they always had, and if the Wolf Burn was still there then we reckoned the whisky could be too.” - Wolfburn
Today
I’m exploring four of Wolfburn’s Single Malt Whiskies: Northland,
Aurora, Morven, and the 2022 Winter Edition.
But, before I #DrinkCurious, I must thank ImpEx Beverages,
the exclusive US-based distributor for Wolfburn, for providing me samples in
exchange for my no-strings-attached, honest reviews. Finally, there is an
expected price increase coming shortly, but the prices listed are for what’s on
the shelf now. ImpEx Beverages did suggest it will add about $5.00 or so. With
that being said, let’s get to the reviews.
Wolfburn
Northland
Up first is Northland, the distillery’s flagship whisky. Matured in American oak quarter casks, the Scotch is non-chill filtered and naturally colored. It weighs in at 46% ABV (92°) and has a retail price of about $74.99.
Appearance: Northland
Single Malt presented as blonde straw in my Glencairn glass. A medium-thick rim
produced husky legs but left behind sticky droplets.
Nose: A
fruity nose offered smells of citrus, apple, pineapple, caramel, and light
smoke. Only the pineapple came through when I drew the air into my mouth.
Palate: The
front of my palate encountered a lightly-peated whisky with honey and white
grape. As it hit the middle, I found vanilla, caramel, and pineapple, while the
back tasted of clove, oak, and black pepper. The mouthfeel was thin and oily.
Finish: The
spice and smoke notes were the most prominent and lasted several minutes. There
was also no doubt about its stated proof.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: If I
lived in the northernmost point of the mainland, I’d want something that would
help keep me warm and taste great. That’s precisely what you get with
Northland. It is flavorful, and it grabs and keeps your attention. You will
love this whisky if you like a Highland Scotch with a smoky character. It snags
my Bottle rating.
◊◊◊◊◊
Wolfburn Aurora
Second in line is Aurora, the sherried version of its whisky. Wolfburn used Oloroso sherry and American oak for the aging process. It is non-chill filtered and naturally colored. It is packaged at 46% ABV (92°) and costs about $74.99.
Appearance: This
whisky presented as yellow gold as it left a thicker rim on the wall of my
Glencairn glass. Slow, wide tears rolled back to the pool.
Nose: The
sherry influence impacted the aromas. Nuts, pear, raisin, and prune melded with
mocha. Coffee rolled across my tongue as I sucked the air into my mouth.
Palate: A
light, airy texture tasted of honeysuckle, rose petals, and vanilla on the
front of my palate. Midway through, I tasted chocolate, almond, and golden
raisin. The back featured nutmeg, cinnamon, and oak.
Finish: Almond,
nutmeg, and vanilla stuck created a medium-length finish.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: Unlike
Northland, Aurora had no evidence of peat whatsoever. It was aptly named;
everything from start to finish was light and airy. Flavors meshed well
together, and it left me with a smile. It also drank way under the stated
proof. This is a Scotch you can sip while hanging out on your backyard deck
during the summer months. Aurora is a winner, and I’m pleased to give it my seal
of approval and a Bottle rating.
◊◊◊◊◊
Wolfburn Morven
From
there, we check out Morven. This is a peated expression. It slept in American
oak and quarter casks before being bottled at 46% ABV (92°), it is non-chill
filtered and naturally colored, and you can expect to spend about $74.99. For
the record, I love peated whiskies and am curious how this differs from
Northland.
Appearance: In my
Glencairn glass, this Scotch looked like pale straw. A thin rim produced a wavy
curtain that crashed early.
Nose: Oh
yeah. Peat was quickly found. It was more of the marine variety than the usual
smokiness one might expect. I sniffed this one probably more than I should, but
I was enchanted by this perfume. Sweet apple and pear notes were hidden beneath
the ocean air, and the whole thing was rounded by vanilla bean. When I inhaled
through my mouth, it tasted of salted caramel.
Palate: The
sensation across my tongue was oily and full-bodied, with flavors of lemon
curd, meringue, and powdered sugar on the front. I discovered a certain
earthiness, along with honey and grass on the middle, which yielded to brine,
smoke, and oak on the back.
Finish: I was
caught up in fantasy, and suddenly, the rug was yanked out from under my feet!
The finish was so concise that I had difficulty picking anything out. After
many sips, I was able to dig out brine and smoke.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: The
nose on Morven was absolutely outstanding. I thought it nice that the palate’s
peatiness waited for the back before its appearance. The meringue isn’t a note
I often encounter. My only complaint is that I got lost in the whole
experience, but it ended quickly; I felt robbed. However, that’s not enough to
warrant a markdown for this whisky. It is worthy of my Bottle rating.
◊◊◊◊◊
Wolfburn
2022 Winter Edition
Last but not least, there’s the annual limited release of its Winter Edition. It, too, is 46% ABV (92°) after spending six years in first-fill Oloroso sherry hogsheads and Bourbon barrels. There was no added coloring, and it is non-chill filtered. You should be able to acquire it for about $99.99.
Appearance: This
whisky appeared as pale gold. The thin rim produced widely-spaced tears that
raced down the wall of my Glencairn glass.
Nose: I found
Winter Edition to have a very malty aroma. It caused me great effort to try and
get past it to determine if there was anything else to smell. I found that raw
honey, dried apricot, and peach were underneath, and those being so submissive
was understandable. Golden raisins danced across my tongue as I forced the air
into my mouth.
Palate: The
mouthfeel was oily with a medium body. Sweet fruits exploded in my mouth, with
raisin, prune, and fig tackling the front of my palate. Vanilla, almond, and
walnut rolled across my mid-palate. On the back, I tasted raw ginger, French
oak, and dark chocolate.
Finish: Medium
in duration, notes of ginger spice, walnut, and fig remained on my tongue and
in my throat.
Bottle, Bar, or Bust: I found
Winter Edition complex; it kept asking me to delve deeper to smell and taste
everything. It was almost as if I was on a treasure hunt. The ginger was a
spicy treat and highlighted the whole tasting experience. It is worth adding
this to my whisky library, and its Bottle rating deserves it.
Final Thoughts: Of the
four Wolfburn single malts, they were all impressive, but some were more than
others. In order from first to fourth, my ranking is Morven, Northland, 2022
Winter Edition, and then Aurora. Cheers!
My Simple, Easy-to-Understand
Rating System
- Bottle = Buy It
- Bar = Try It
- Bust = Leave It
Whiskeyfellow encourages
you to enjoy your whiskey as you see fit but begs you do so responsibly.
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